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Editorial Review

Reviewed in the Dec/Jan '06/'07 issue of Ciao!

Saturday night in the Exchange District; the mood is perfect for a cheek-to-cheek swirl of spicy red wine. The crisp weather induces a craving for some decadent mouthfuls of French bistro fare. Upon entering the busy foyer of Oui Bistro and Wine Bar, it is quite evident that this is a popular sentiment.

The dining room creates a sophisticated tenor with lofty opal-black ceilings, rich gold accents and intimate lighting from bulbous, Parisian-style fixtures. It emits a subtle sexiness, unique to this city, which has drawn a diverse crowd since its March 2007 opening.

Seeing the enormous popularity of recently opened French bistros (perhaps the hottest trend in town), 32-year-old Chef/owner Tristan Foucault pitched his idea for a similarly themed restaurant to local powerhouse WOW! Hospitality. With WOW! as a financial partner, Foucault, formerly head chef of Hu’s on First, found the perfect Exchange District space for his vision.

He and his earnest kitchen team prepare all the favourites of classic bistro fare. They take the necessary and often time-consuming steps to make this deceptively simple food sing.

A classic French martini floats to the table on the arm of a penguin-suited waiter, following its selection from a cocktail list as impressive as the vast, three columned menu. Next comes a crusty baguette, freshly baked by Le Croissant and served in a crinkly white paper bag.

Olive niçoise en tapenade tempts the palate to start. Chopped with immaculate precision, it is delicately flavoured by the faint taste of anchovies and a scatter of diced jade-green chives. The seafood section of the menu is encrusted with a variety of underwater royalty including king crab, oysters and lobster. Flavoured with such creamy slatherings as elegant saffron and dijon, gigantic Salt Spring Island mussels are a sight to behold. They are served in a cast-iron, boat-like contraption featuring a grate on one end to separate them from their rich sauce, allowing for ample bread mopping. These ingenious mussel pots were the first item Chef Foucault bought for the restaurant, special-ordered from France.

Simply plated entrées rely confidently on decadent sauces and protein selections rooted in the French culinary tradition. A heritage-farmed pork chop glistens with a shellac of veal demi-glace and lardons (bacon) atop a handful of fingerling potatoes. The apple-bacon compote is the undeniable star of this delicious dish, powerfully transporting one’s palate to an airy farm kitchen in the French countryside.

The blushing pink salmon collapses into soft, flaky mouthfuls with the mere suggestion of a fork. This flawless piece of fish absorbs its flavours from the underlying bed of buttery, melted leeks. A lavish breadcrumb crust of brioche and dijon provides a winning crunch to the delicate, supple flesh.

Top-grade steaks are cooked on a flat iron to seal in meaty juices and flavour. Steak au poivre comes with a bold cognac pepper sauce. The timeless steak frites is accompanied by a thatched pile of crispy shoestring frites and house-made mayo. The hunky slabs of beef are prepared perfectly to specified doneness.

Chubby profiteroles provide great company to a hot cup of coffee at the finale of the meal. Each puffed pastry sandwich overflows with velvety vanilla bean ice cream, happily doused in a stream of deep brown chocolate sauce.

This restaurant may operate with large volumes, but upon a return visit don’t be surprised by the firm handshake of the maître d’ as he bellows, “Welcome back to Oui, madame (or monsieur)!”

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