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Editorial Review

Reviewed in the Dec/Jan '07/'08 issue of Ciao!

With a combined forty years of foodservice experience, the Watson sisters—Cassandra, 31, Katrina, 28, and Becky, 27—had long held a dream of opening up a restaurant serving “healthy, whole, life-giving foods.” When the former Roca Jack’s coffeehouse building in Corydon’s Little Italy became available in late May, they put their plan into action. The result is Fresh Cafe, a brilliant daytime eatery of contemporary dishes and juices, all bursting with flavour and alive with colour. A gourmet diner for early risers and leisurely brunchers alike, this well-executed concept is our pick for best new restaurant of 2007. Fresh Cafe turns breakfast into a dining experience.

As the name implies, fresh ingredients are the focus here. Under the guidance of Gluttons’ alum Chef Mandel Hitzer, the kitchen sources straight from the farm, utilizing whole bison, roasting Manitoba turkeys and going through crates of free-range Vita eggs.

The sweet smell of fresh-cut fruit from the juice bar greets you as you come through the door. The small counter accommodates both in-house and take-out orders. Fresh Manitoba maple lemonade —smooth as fine wine, and just slightly sweetened with natural sugars, is one of the stand-out sippers from this menu. Hearty smoothies and shakes are also in the mix. The ‘breakfast-to-go’ shake is a toothsome blend of oatmeal, banana, maple syrup, cinnamon and yogurt—perfect for the power eater who only has time for a break-fast beverage.

The kitchen is already bustling at 7 a.m. when the doors open. Fresh Cafe claims to be the only restaurant in the neighbourhood offering cooked breakfasts. The sisters have really capitalized on this distinction, gracefully turning morning fuel into a gourmet meal.

The majority of the seating is on the second floor, where cheery, citrus-coloured walls, vibrant floral prints and large, south-facing windows make it bright and warm even on a cloudy day. For a real morning filler try its version of eggs benny with house-cured salmon. A buttery, crumbly scone soaks up the egg’s yolk, along with house-made hollandaise sauce. The salmon adds a surprising lemon tang.

Poached eggs on a sweet potato latke come layered with bright green braised kale and deep red rustic tomato sauce. Its taste is as vibrant as the colours.

Banana bread french toast is an updated classic, with thick slices of a sweet, nutty loaf soaked in eggs. The dense bread satisfies within the first few mouthfuls, but it is so tasty that you just keep going.

A small lunch menu provides light and healthy options intended to give diners much needed energy for the rest of the day. Whole grain tabouleh salad is a visually appealing dish, dotted with chopped red peppers, tomatoes, tiny balls of cucumber, slivers of fresh mint and ribbons of carrot piled on top like flames.

The thick roast turkey sandwich is delightfully moist, with a hint of cranberry sauce and an added touch of sweetness from the multi-grain bread. It is served with mixed greens accented by colourful, tart pickled beets.

Horseradish aioli gives the bison burger a little kick, while grainy molasses mustard complements the lean meat. Oak Island goat cheese adds a rich creaminess. It comes paired with piles of yam wedges—a clever alternative to a side of fries.

Fresh Cafe offers a small, but sumptuous dessert menu. A large square of moist pineapple carrot cake, topped with a thin layer of cream cheese icing, is the perfect finish for two, while the fudgy vegan chocolate brownie, drizzled with tart, mixed berry coulis, is a dish you’ll want to hoard all to yourself.

Fresh Cafe is open daily 7 am-4 pm.

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