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Editorial Review

Reviewed in the Aug/Sept '07 issue of Ciao! magazine

While Winnipeg may not have as many sushi restaurants as Vancouver, the number is rising on what seems to be a monthly basis. One of the pioneers of sushi in our town, Masa Surgita, has relocated his red hot Yujiro Sushi from its tiny Academy Road location into a much larger space on Grant Avenue, beside For Space Sake.

The transformation from a run-of-the-mill Chinese restaurant to this chic new incarnation is amazing. And for fans of Masa-san’s supreme sushi, the new place has ten times the seating as before. There is a stylish touch to everything from deep wood panels separating the elevated window seating area from the main level, to autumn-hued globe pendant lamps and simple bamboo roller blinds.

The restaurant offers daily specials that range from the exotic to the classic. There are several variations of classic Japanese appetizers to choose from. Baked oysters came highly recommended by the friendly and helpful server. These two succulent shells of tender meat are coated in a decadent creamy misonaise.

A citrus-infused deluxe sunomono salad is appealingly presented with a heap of fresh crab meat. For a more experimental taste, try the delicate kaisou salad, a collection of mixed seaweed bathed in a refreshing yuzu dressing.

Perhaps the most impressive dish on the menu is the delectable tuna goma ae. Large slices of tuna mixed with perfectly ripened avocadoes are generously tossed with one of the best house-made sesame dressings in the city. Each morsel melts in your mouth, with the nutty mix of both black and white sesame seeds being the secret to its perfection.

Many standard rolls are featured on the menu, with more adventurous flavours usually found on the daily special. The David roll, off of the special menu, is an experience in eclectic sushi cuisine. Lightly seared beef topped with tiny mounds of grated ginger are wrapped around a sizable piece of a tuna inside-out roll.

Yujiro’s standard rolls are nothing to pass by, though. Everything from the deluxe California roll to the spinach roll (which again features the mixed sesame dressing) to the tiger roll, is crafted with great care and close attention to fresh ingredients. Rolls that cater to picante taste buds, such as the spicy ebi roll, have just the right amount of tastebud-jumping heat to keep the flavour interesting. In a similar fashion, the crunchy roll does not over do it with piles of tempura. It is light, yet lives up to its crispy name.

Yellow tail sashimi is well worth the indulgence. The large sharply cut pieces are tender and succulent.

Deluxe yamagobo hand roll features a unique flavour combination of mint leaf and burdock root. The result is a woodsy herbal freshness wrapped up in a sheet of mild seaweed.

There are three types of palate-cleansing green teas available, ranging from the traditional roasted rice blend to a more potent and fragrant variety that the restaurant imports from Japan.

Yujiro is an excellent stop for first-time sushi eaters and long-time sushi lovers alike. Its fresh menu, comfortable atmosphere and helpful service will no doubt make it a favourite for anyone who enters its doors.

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