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Editorial Review

Reviewed in the Oct/Nov '07 issue of Ciao! magazine

As arrowhead formations of geese cut through the sky and trees shed their final leaves in the wind, driving west of the city into Headingley showcases a distinctly Canadian fall landscape. But, upon pulling up to the stately The Gates on Roblin one’s mind follows the flock, migrating from the great north into the deep south.

The building’s country porch, climbing tea rose bushes and signature bay windows are evocative of Savannah, conjuring up the clinking of ice in a muddled mint julep and the creak of an old porch swing on a muggy night.

Perhaps it is the over 80-year history of this sprawling Dutch-Colonial structure that gives it a grandeur and charm reminiscent of the southern US; however, the foundation of the restaurant is solidified by Chef Heiko Duehrsen’s vast menu that proudly uses regional ingredients whenever possible.

The Gates boasts a variety of seating options with a lounge, patio and a maze of smaller dining rooms to choose from. It is also a popular location for large gatherings with its riverside pavilion, seating 400. Crisp white tablecloths and high backed chairs lend an air of sophistication to the dining experience. Each room is intimate and comfortable, but conversations from the next table may be easily overheard, so prepare to share.

The bread basket is an indictor of the level of cuisine to anticipate. From miniature loaves of spicy chile cornbread to the warm whole grain rolls, the selection is irresistible.

A crust or two are wisely saved to drown in the Manitoba wild rice and mushroom bisque. This sumptuous cream-based concoction serves as an exceptional autumn starter with its warm, earthy undertones.

The in-house maplewood smoked salmon is a light start. Pink ribbons of fish are placed atop endearing blinis, and the salmon’s delicate texture is contrasted with tough, salty capers, chives and a dollop of silky crème fraîche.

The protein-focused entrées offer a wide range of choices, with one vegetarian dish included in the herd. A king among its worthy opponents, the rack of Manitoba lamb arrives wearing a distinguished bony crown. The burgundy meat is succulent and tender, sealed with a thick layer of bold Dijon and lavender honey and moistened with a roasted garlic and dark ale jus. Served alongside a mountainous pile of creamy mashers, this dish fills you with the simplicity of meat and potatoes, but offers depth in its complex flavourings.

The Manitoba pickerel and spinach roulade is striking in presentation and taste. A brazen roasted red pepper sauce adds intense colour and smokiness to this dish. Cooked in subtle herb butter, the large fillet embraces a deep green mound of wilted spinach, demonstrating a refined use of local ingredients.

The Berkshire pork tenderloin is another Manitoba-sourced main. Sliced into a fan of pale pink portions, this barbeque basted meat pairs well with an indigo Saskatoon berry sauce. The candied pistachio crust gives the pork a sweet, nutty taste and adds a satisfying crunch.

Desserts are prepared in-house, and the heavenly selection is well worth a try. The brandied apple pie is topped with streusel and traditional vanilla ice cream. Its insides are warm with the pleasant bite of brandy, providing a dessert and nightcap in one--a sweet way to close The Gates.

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