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Editorial Review

Reviewed in Fall '00 issue of Ciao!

The wave of immigration from Eastern Europe prior to World War I that brought the first influx of Ukrainian immigrants to Winnipeg grew until the Ukrainian community became one of the city’s largest ethnic groups.

This jovial community celebrates prairie life with a cuisine that is rich in hearty signature dishes like pyrohy (perogies) and holubtsi (cabbage rolls). It is a food that was quickly adopted by the rest of Winnipeg. Today, Ukrainian fare is a regional specialty and while everyone seems to know a baba who makes “the best perogies in town”, the undisputed champion of Ukrainian restaurant food is Alycia’s Restaurant (559 Cathedral, 582-8789).

Alycia’s has become a north-end institution since it first opened in 1977. Still under the ownership of founder Marion Staff, it draws customers from throughout the city and beyond. Alycia’s is known for its mixed clientele of regular folk, sports figures, movie stars and homesick ex-Winnipeggers. Late comedian John Candy used to have the LA Kings (of which he was part-owner) pick up perogies for him whenever they were in town to play our dearly-departed Jets.

Regardless of where they come from, they come for Ukrainian home-style meals served in a laid-back atmosphere of lace and ethnic wall hangings. This fare begins with the traditional borscht, sweetly sour and served piping hot with a generous dollop of sour cream. Appetizers follow, such as tart pickled herring or stuffed pork with a zesty beet horseradish dip.

Entrées come in several combinations that mix and match spicy kolbassa sausage, holubtsi in a lightly-flavoured tomato sauce and thick and hearty Ukrainian-style potato pancakes. Then, of course, there are the perogies, served boiled or fried, of which Alycia’s makes 1,000 dozen every single day.

Desserts include standards like pies and ice cream, but try khrustiki, a light and fluffy pastry concoction sprinkled with sugar. Alycia’s offers special festive meals during holidays. Many items are also packaged for take-out.

Alycia’s is open Monday to Friday, 8 am-8 pm, Saturday 9 am-8 pm. Entrées: $4.50-$9.95. Reservations for groups of 10 or more.

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