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Editorial Review

Reviewed in the Aug/Sept '07 issue of Ciao! magazine

Nestled in the heart of Osborne Village, Buccacino’s is a contemporary Italian concept from the ownership team that operates the city’s uber-successful Moxie’s outlets. It’s primo location and Tuscan-inspired decor make this a popular summer destination, especially for its cool, shaded summer patio. The ambitious menu took a while to fine tune when it first opened, but the kitchen, under Chef David Abe, has really begun to attract attention of late.

A lively interior celebrates la dolce vita with its classic wall mural of an Italian piazza. The starter menu has classics, too, such as bruschetta and calamari, but it also delves into more adventurous dishes. Italian garlic mushrooms have a whole lotta garlic sautéed in an herb butter white wine sauce, tossed together with tomatoes, fresh basil and rosemary. Make sure to save enough of the doughy fresh bread for mopping up the sauce. Gambero del firehouse drapes succulent shrimp, which have been finely dusted with spicy chile seasoning, over the edge of a martini glass. This is served with a smoky chipotle pepper cream sauce; an aptly named firestarter.

Pastas range from traditional spaghetti and meatballs to alfredo and carbonara. Try the bucca ravioli, which is packed with beef, drizzled with smoked provolone basil cream sauce and accompanied with mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes. The majority of pastas and pizzas are specially priced every Monday and Tuesday.

Entrées of interest are pickerel di garda with gnocchi magnatum and blackened Corsica-style striploin. The pickerel is proudly Italo-Manitoban, lightly battered, pan-fried and served on top of gnocchi, which melts in your mouth. It is swimming in a black truffle and roasted garlic cream sauce with oyster mushrooms.

The tenderness of the striploin is enhanced by dolce flamenco seasoning, McIlhenny peppers and kalamata olives. Its lively style and spicy taste delivers a fresh kick. All the entrées come with your choice of soup or salad.

On the dessert menu the one item that truly stands out is the chocolate pyramid anglaise. A pyramid of dark chocolate mousse encases a soft white chocolate center that is hard to eat slowly—sinful, but a decadent way to end off the evening.

Friday nights are a happening time to check out the patio, when Papa Mambo, a Cuban-style band, enlivens the setting.

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