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Editorial Review

Reviewed in Jan/Feb '06 Issue of WHERE

Headed by talented Chef Dave MacPherson, Rembrandt’s Bistro has been charming city and country folk alike since it opened its doors last year inside the cavernous Wellink Antiques & Decor store. The quaint country experience with warm atmosphere and regionally-accented contemporary cuisine has people flocking to Lockport. The leisurely 25 minute drive from downtown, following Henderson Highway, winds through picturesque townships littered with historic attractions and great river views. At the end of the drive is fine dining country-style; meaning huge portions of upscale comfort food, accompanied by many unexpected small delights. It is all served in a friendly, earnest manner.

The bistro is part of the Wellink Antiques complex just east of the Lockport bridge. By day, a high industrial ceiling with hanging banners lends the airy room a European art gallery cafeteria feel. But in the evening, the indoor and outdoor fireplaces and wrought iron candelabras truly transform the space into a cozy, intimate spot. If possible, take a seat on the east side of the restaurant where views of the vast prairie expanse are spectacularly serene. A weekend visit will have you rubbing elbows with local, high-end suburbanites as well as city dwellers out for an evening in the country air.

If you want to take in some attractions along the way and do a little antiquing to whet your appetite, go for a leisurely lunch. The soups are made daily and reflect seasonality and the whims of the kitchen. Creamy potato vegetable is clearly made from scratch, but on a recent visit required a few dashes of salt to bring out the flavour. The black and blue salad of seared rare beef with warm soy vinaigrette is juicy and smoky, while a warm chicken and brie salad with maple Dijon vinaigrette is tangy and smooth. Although the two salads are worlds apart in description, they oddly come with the same maple-Dijon base dressing.

Spongy, house-baked bread is delivered with a flourish at both lunch and dinner, complete with two housemade spreads. It’s a great touch. The first, a goat cheese and sweet potato is very mild, if that is your preference. The second, a green olive tapenade is full of life—a vibrant, creamy olive paste spiked with vinegar and anchovy.

A sweet corn risotto is creamy and pungent, dotted with small seared scallops and robust enough for an entire meal. The mussel starter in a warm vermouth-based broth offers plump bivalves but muted flavours.

Aside from incongruous garnishes on both main and dessert plates, the food is bold, fresh and properly prepared. Entrée portions are large, each plated in the same fashion. A base of puréed roots supports grilled meat and sautéed vegetables crowned by a large rosemary branch. This island of food is surrounded by a sea of savoury sauce. The lamb duo has chops and sirloin complemented with a spicy ratatouille. The duck combo pairs a succulent, rich confit with a slightly leaner breast bathed in a sour cherry demi-glace.

Desserts are worth the drive all by themselves. A sumptuous baked Bailey’s Irish Cream cheesecake leaves a velvety mouthfeel. The pear and almond tart is a perfect mix of sweetness, nuttiness and plump fruit. A maple-pecan tart, a house specialty, provides a great crunchy-caramel finish to the meal. If a small sweet is all you need, adorable Dutch spice cookies are served with tea and coffee.

The wine list is varied and affordable, with few bottles topping the $50 mark. Before leaving be sure to head to the loft to peek at local art in the art gallery and snooker lounge.

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