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Editorial Review

Reviewed in Oct/Nov '06 issue of Ciao!

For more than one hundred years, the elegant building that houses Bailey’s Restaurant and Bar has sat near the corner of Portage and Lombard. Since 1969, Winnipeg power brokers and luxury-seeking diners have thronged here for a taste of the rich British Empire atmosphere and classic continental cuisine. Traversing the building’s threshold past heavy, studded doors transports one into a space that could be a gentleman’s club of a bygone era, in the best sense of those words. The oak panels, heavy, curved balustrade, rich carpeting, framed line drawings and hushed tones contribute to the experience. Subtle updates have melded into the whole seamlessly thanks to owner Leo Groumoutis.

The first floor bar is reminiscent of a private club’s library and reading room, if one ignores the bank of video slots tucked into a corner. Its tapestry chairs and sofas are comfortable without being too plush. The lunch menu, which is the same as that served in the second floor dining room, is filled with casual favourites, old and new. Lighter wraps cater to those seeking less substantial fare, while traditional and hearty sandwiches are more than enough to fuel even the most high-powered afternoon agenda. Soups have that fresh from scratch taste too seldom found in other restaurants. A wide, oak staircase leads to the formal dining rooms on the second floor with a twin going back down to the rear of the bar. Several tables are eminently suited for couples with upholstered high-backed wing chairs that lend an intimate atmosphere. The Winter Garden room is a bright cheery space overlooking Lombard Street.

The restaurant’s popularity is due to the consistency of its classic dishes and the menu’s value pricing, which together deliver an exceptional experience.

Smoked salmon on thin slices of pumpernickel, smeared with cream cheese and topped with capers, needs only a sprinkling from the accompanying lemon wedges to spike the flavour.

The Feast lets one sample several of Bailey’s best entrée selections. A huge, fish-shaped platter comes with perfectly-cooked filet mignon, lobster tails, shrimps, scallops and chicken souvlaki—more than enough for two. Rack of lamb is sublime in its seasoning, ranking among the best in the city. It has remained a specialty throughout the years with good reason.

Desserts, while not made on the premises, are definitely decadent, and the perfect way to end the evening. Tiramisu, a soft tower of sponge and cream is delicately flavoured with coffee and chocolate. Pecan cheesecake is neither too sweet nor too fluffy, but melts on the tongue.

Soft-footed servers ensure that regulars have whatever they need, before they need it, and that newcomers are treated like treasured guests. Courses seem to be perfectly timed, with any and all needs swiftly provided for.

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