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Editorial Review

Reviewed in the Aug/Sept '07 issue of Ciao! magazine

The entry road winds down a tunnel of elms that follows the rolling banks of the Seine River. A castle looms on the opposite shore. It’s a setting evocative of the French countryside, but its actually the magical drive that leads to the secluded Provence Bistro at Niakwa Country Club—the only private club in the city to open its elite doors to public dining (evenings only). The backdrop is stunningly picturesque, from gleaming Ferraris and BMWs in the parking lot, to rabbits hopping across the manicured greens.

Provence Bistro opened in 2003 under the guidance of powerhouse restaurateurs Valerie Anne-Owen and Shawn Brandson (both formerly of La Beaujolais). The duo converted the under-used club dining and trophy rooms into two elegant window-lined dining rooms overlooking the verdant 18th hole. Twenty-seven-year-old chef prodigy Simon Resch has presided over the kitchen for merely a year, yet his precocious culinary skills bring the restaurant’s sophisticated French cuisine to new heights.

Savoir vivre is the mandate at Provence, as is apparent when the suited host promptly greets you upon entering the cozy clubhouse foyer. The elegant decor of the dining rooms—beige walls, blonde woods, vineyard oil paintings and dusted gold chandeliers—combines with candle light and comforting background music to recreate the atmosphere of a French country inn. It’s the relaxed kind of setting that beckons indulgence, and guests are relentlessly pampered throughout the evening with gracious service, first-class food and fine wine.

It starts with an amuse bouche, a chilled slice of marinated duck breast one night and a mini caprese salad on a different night. The subsequent bread basket is packed with three outstanding varieties—flax, cheese and garlic and ultra-moist pumpernickel.

The country club’s affluent atmosphere provides the perfect excuse to start with foie gras poele, a heavenly version of this French delicacy. Two tiny seared pieces are served on top of a roasted plum swimming in port and verjus. The stunning smoky-sweet-tart flavour of the sauce mingles with the delicate texture of the foie gras and leaves you speechless.

The mussels are ocean fresh—as though they were collected from the sea that day—bathed in an elegant white wine sauce with garlic and onion. The simple French onion soup is also prepared to perfection, emitting a subtle onion aroma. A swirl of port on top helps cool the soup, while providing that extra touch of finesse.

Although the two-page menu regularly changes, it hinges mostly on gourmet provençe;ale cuisine. The characteristic Mediterranean influence is evidenced by hearty vegetables and a diverse selection of seafood. Ratatouille, that quintessential peasant dish, appears twice on the menu: once in a vegetarian dish and again with giant scallops. The latter pairing is precisely executed: a tower of earthy vegetable stew encircled by pillow-soft scallops. The kitchen’s affinity for stylish seafood continues with a brilliant grilled salmon decorated with a colourful kiwi, cantaloupe and pineapple salsa. The sweet fruit adds a bright zing to the subtlety of the fish. A side of rustic sweet potato helps to ground the flavour.

Herbes de Provence, which characteristically includes thyme, rosemary, bay leaves, basil and lavender, provides the core seasoning to a lot of the dishes including the decadent veal tenderloin. Delectable slices of the meat are so tender that little effort is required in devouring them. An accompanying raspberry gastric sauce adds a tangy and fresh summer taste. Regular evening specials provide the talented kitchen an opportunity to suss out local flavours, such as an expertly delivered prairie-inspired dish of bison with a sweet saskatoon sauce, served on a bed of fluffy barley pilaf.

Dessert is the exclamation point to the meal. Crème brûlée infused with lavender conjures up the image of Provence’s fragrant fields. A pint-size key lime pie is sinful, with its lip-puckering centre and rich whipped topping.

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