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Editorial Review

Reviewed in June/July '06 issue of WHERE

Opening night theatre tickets; a kid’s birthday party; a reservation at fusion grill. Each is cause for great excitement. For a foodie, the anticipation of the fusion grill experience is heightened by the restaurant’s uncompromising commitment to local ingredients—a course pioneered by owner Scot McTaggart ten years ago. You may not know exactly what you are going to be served, but you do know it will be an exceptional experience of regional and seasonal dishes.

Since 1996, fusion grill has solidly established itself as the best restaurant in the city—doing so by travelling a path with more twists and turns than most. Because of the need for high quality local suppliers who can compete with the best of imported ingredients, an enormous amount of time and energy is continously invested in sourcing new and better product, much more so than at a traditional fine dining restaurant.

Chef Lorna Murdoch’s cooking also requires time, for marinades, sauces and reductions that are made fresh daily. The results are spectacular—introducing us to ingredients that, simply put, taste really good. For example: the best rutabagas, ever! They seem to have disappeared from the modern kitchen, but this hardy northern root vegetable is provenance of the land. Here the lowly rutabaga is infused with flavour, creating a side that sings.

The room at fusion is small (approximately 40 seats) and tables are close together, creating a bustling atmosphere. The service is well choreographed to flow seamlessly through this tight space. Wine recommendations are knowledgeable and erudite. It all gives the feel of being at a successful private dinner party, where owner/waiter McTaggart is the host.

Chef Lorna’s passion for food and unusual pairings is evident in the beet and pear salad. A tangy apple cider vinaigrette marries the sweet pear and beet flavours while arugula offers a peppery punch. However, the fabulous goat cheese ice cream brings the taste sensations together. The secret to the ice cream is a delicate lemon accent—which really gives this salad its wow factor. Many regional specialties have been popularized here—one of the first modern restaurants to seriously offer bison, back in the summer of 1996. Now this symbolic meat is found on many local menus. Fusion’s version, tender Inwood bison ribeye—served, at most, medium rare—is redolent in a peppercorn demi-glace. The phyllo crust adds soft buttery accents.

The staple panko-crusted pickerel cheeks are an experience in contrasting textures and flavours. The mild, crispy pickerel cheeks are brightened by the bold flavours of the accompanying orange and fennel salad.

The restaurant’s latest mission is to glamourize the perogy, a regional specialty that rarely appears on local menus, although it’s common in home kitchens. Chef Lorna’s version is luxurious; topped with rich duck sausage and drizzled with white truffle oil and a smooth walnut cream—truly out of this world.

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