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Editorial Review

Reviewed in the June/July '07 issue of Ciao! magazine

Few opportunities remain in our busy lives to share a communal dinner. From selecting the meal to cooking and tasting each morsel as a group, fondue is the centrepiece of a festive atmosphere.

The Melting Pot, Winnipeg’s long-standing fondue spot, is situated in the same unassuming building on Sherbrook Street as its former version, the Fork and Cork. The interior is cozy and well-worn, with a fireplace in one corner radiating warmth, inviting patrons to share in a friendly feast.

Owners Dustin Hoekstra and Leah Sellers have created a menu that reflects the essentially humble and practical origins of fondue. Although many theories exist, it is assumed that the melted cheese version began with Swiss cow herders who had a surplus of cheese which they melted and used as an accompaniment to their bread and wine. No stranger to fondue, Hoekstra is the son of Fokke and Cathie, owners of the original Fork and Cork.

With four starter cheese fondues and multiple entrée fondues in oil or bouillon (chicken, pork, prawns, scallops and two cuts of beef), the menu options may appear overwhelming. Thankfully, combination fondues lighten the burden of choice.

As an appetizer, any cheese fondue is a creamy and rich treat. The classic cheese is a blend of Gruyere and Swiss, white wine, Kirsch and spices, while the other selections use a beer base. The classic ritual of breaking fresh bread with others provides the impetus for lively conversation. In order to sample the best of the entrees, the traditional farm combination is a must. Fondue is customarily oil, and although bouillon is a lower fat alternative, the oil is a better bet to get the full experience. It draws out the true flavours of the meats. The farm combination consists of delicately breaded chicken breast, meaty marinated sirloin and melt-in-your-mouth aged filet mignon. Filet mignon is so tender that the three accompanying sauces are almost not necessary. Red chile fish sauce packs a punch, although it tends to separate. Honey dill and peanut sauces are also offered, and they help make mix-and-match dipping part of the flavour experience.

The farm combination is also served with salads and either a starter cheese fondue or a decadent chocolate dessert fondue. Caesar salad, dubbed “Winnipeg’s finest,” is garlicky and fresh. The herbed and crunchy croutons are excellent. Sunshine salad is a unique mixture of sun-dried tomato dressing, feta cheese, red onions, pecans, mandarin oranges and black olives.

A few non-fondue entrées are also available. Bami goreng, either with chicken or vegetarian, is a spicy assortment of al dente fusilli, spinach, bok choy, sesame seeds and peppers. It is an addictive, well-prepared dish, a delightful surprise considering the restaurant’s fondue focus.

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