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Editorial Review

Reviewed in Mar/Apr '03 Issue of WHERE

Recent census numbers have confirmed what Winnipegers long knew—our prairie city boasts an impressive cultural diversity. One of the most pleasurable ways this is reflected is in the many restaurants celebrating cuisine from around the globe. India Palace was one of the first Indian restaurants in the city (although its first incarnation was known as Bombay) and in its almost 20 years it has won over a devoted base of fans. Part of the draw is the warm feeling created by the owners, the Kumar Nagpal family, who treat everyone as part of their extended family. Situated in a large, square room, this is a lively space with brightly coloured walls and South Asian artifacts. But most inviting are the delicious aromas that greet you the minute you arrive.

As with most of the Indian restaurants in the city, there are lunch and dinner buffets, both of which are quite popular. The best way to experience the passion of Indian-trained chef/owner Shwani Kumar, though, is to order a number of dishes off the menu and share them with a group of friends. A hidden delight of Indian food is the complexity and depth of its seafood and fish dishes. While there are many appetizers to choose from, one of the best is the fish pakora; bite-sized whitefish cakes seasoned with chiles and turmeric and fried to a crispy golden brown. The heat of the chiles is softened slightly by the sweet tamarind dipping sauce.

Shrimp biryani is wonderfully rich and also fairly mild. Saffron scented basmati rice, crisp vegetables, crunchy cashews, plump sultanas and silken bits of egg are seasoned and served with a generous helping of pan-seared shrimp.

Vegetarians delight in Indian cuisine because of the many options. A significant portion of the menu is dedicated to meatless dishes, including dal terka, a lentil curry slow cooked and served slightly thicker than lentil soup. The dal gets its fire from ginger, curry and chiles, and is delicious when spooned up with ripped off pieces of warm, buttered chappatis, a traditional flatbread of wheat and chickpea flour.

No meal would be complete without one of the sticky desserts on display. Recommended is the gulab jaman, small balls of fried dough steeped in cardamom spiked honey.

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