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Editorial Review

Reviewed in May/June '03 issue of WHERE

Transylvania’s best-known inhabitant (real or imagined) is Count Dracula. His legendary taste for blood and his decided distaste for garlic define what most of us know about Romanian eating habits. However, it turns out that this flavourful cooking, as practiced at Bobbie’s Restaurant, is actually heavy on the garlic and light on the blood. When you sink your teeth into the signature Chicken Dracula, it will be white mujdei sauce that dribbles down your chin.

Mujdei is a garlic yogurt sauce that is one of the hallmarks of Romanian cooking and it is used sparingly, yet effectively on many of the dishes in this charming restaurant. Relocated from a house in Osborne Village, to what looks like a castle on St. Mary’s Road, chef/owners John and Bobbie Schiop have created an environment that would make the Count feel right at home. A windowless room of brick arches is brightened with a profusion of petals. Floral paintings, many by Bobbie herself, line every wall. Alcove seating creates a number of romantic nooks.

The Schiops, both accomplished Red Seal chefs, emigrated under difficult circumstances from communist Romania in the mid-80s. Their first restaurant was on the small main floor of their Wardlaw Avenue home, set up as if friends were coming for dinner. Their new location is larger and more formal, with over 80 seats in two rooms. The menu is similar, though. It is a meat-eater’s paradise, with numerous European specialties, including schnitzel, scaloppini, and souvlaki. During the evening loud hammering can frequently be heard from the kitchen as meat is being tenderized.

Despite some service hiccups, Bobbie’s offers a fairly refined contemporary dining experience. As soon as you are seated, a wedge of foccacia drizzled with olive oil is placed in front of you, often without preamble. Appetizers are worth exploring because they hint at the flavours to come, expecially the mititei. These are thin house-made Romanian sausages of pork, lamb and beef. They are decorously garnished with mujdei, creating a spicy garlic awakening of your palate. Mushroom caps also taunt the taste buds with tomato sauce and baked mozzarella.

The house salad, served as a prelude to each meal, is a standard garlic caesar. The signature dishes have more promise, especially the aforementioned Chicken Dracula, which features a pair of oven-roasted thigh and drumsticks sprinkled with pepper flakes. It is tender and piquant. Chicken grillato is another choice option. This tenderized breast is also accented with the signature mujdei sauce. A nice accompaniment to all the main dishes is the creamy garlic herb mashed potatoes decadently bathed in a thick mushroom gravy.

Desserts veer away from the sweet, perhaps to subdue the onslaught of garlic. Poached pears and crème caramel both have a slightly bitter taste. Of the two options, the pears are the better selection.

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