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Editorial Review

Reviewed in Aug/Sept '06 issue of Ciao!

Some restaurants are about more than just food, they’re about the experience. Beautiful Pineridge Hollow is the undisputed leader of this category, as visitors do a disservice to themselves if they do not take the time to explore all of the offerings of owner Janice Regehr’s country cottage spot. Situated just twenty-five minutes northeast of downtown, this popular meeting place is home to a bi-level prairie restaurant, an irresistible gift shop, an ice cream stand and gorgeous gardens. The main level of the restaurant is cottage casual, with wooden tables complementing pastoral paintings decorated with rustic frames. Bustling with chatter, it’s an ideal spot for an informal meal. The second floor, with its gingham curtains and creamy damask tablecloths, exudes country elegance and sets the stage for Executive Chef Angela Baschuk’s prairie-themed fare.

Chef Angela’s new menu reflects the restaurant’s close connection to its environs, with sections of the menu simply named “from the land”, “from the fields” and “from the lakes”. Chef Angela is aided by her sous chef, Manitoba newcomer Peter Tiessen. Many may remember him as the chef who proudly represented Saskatchewan in Global TV’s “The Next Great Chef”. Their passion for sourcing quality products locally is evident in the fresh dishes offered.

The starters celebrate the bounty from Pineridge’s very own kitchen garden. Warm brie melts over the fresh, crunchy asparagus in the crispy strudel, adding a complementing nutty flavour to the sweet stalks. A gentle chive cream sauce unites the soft flavours of the dish. Wild mushroom perogies highlight the earthy goodness from our forests while playing homage to one of Winnipeg’s favourite foods. Sweet caramelized onions top the woodsy perogies and pair beautifully with dill-infused sour cream.

Unique local pairings abound in the entrée selections. The succulent local pork tenderloin is beautifully dressed with a light Fort Garry Pale Ale and grainy mustard sauce. A must try is thick beef tenderloin topped with a heavenly smoked goldeye butter. The distinctive flavour of the goldeye raises the tender meat to new heights, and you may just find yourself asking for more of the savoury sauce.

The local foodie community has just begun to explore unique and healthful grains such as quinoa, a slightly nutty and sweet pulse, and Chef Angela is riding atop the trend with her mushroom, pine nut and quinoa ravioli. The sweet quinoa and fragrant mushrooms are delicately balanced by tangy bits of sundried tomato and fresh bites of wilted spinach.

Be sure to save room for the sweet stuff. Daily offerings of local desserts include a huge, subtly sweet butter tart served piping hot and a wonderful rendition of shmoo torte.

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