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Editorial Review

Reviewed in Mar/Apr '05 issue of WHERE

The King’s Head Pub is the historic Exchange District’s neighbourhood watering hole, attracting artsy urbanites, posh theatre-goers and city hall bureaucrats. It’s also the area’s best place to enjoy a few laughs, a game of pool, a pint of Keith’s and a plate of curry.

From its humble beginnings in 1988, The King’s Head has grown from 36 to more than 200 seats sprawling over two floors. Taking over in 1991, owner Jay Khanuja has made it a warm, inviting space; its dark wood interior peppered with pub signs, old books and maps and soccer scarves from around the globe. In recent years the pub’s second floor has become a live music and theatre venue as well. The kitchen pumps out an enticing menu filled with predominantly Indian fare. British standards, pastas, sandwiches and salads also make an obligatory appearance. Khanuja spent years working in his parents’ Indian restaurant and brings that experience to the kitchen where he works alongside Chef Steve Young.

The jovial staff often go from table to table, especially at lunch, but heading up to the bar is the quickest way to order. The papadi chat, which is like an Indian poutine, is a savoury prelude to a meal, or a light evening snack. In this towering, shareable dish, crispy flour discs resembling diced pita bread are blanketed in a spicy mix of tender chickpeas and tamarind chutney, tempered by a cold yogurt sauce and pungent cilantro. Also great are the samosas, which use tortilla shells rather than pastry. They are stuffed with mixed vegetables or beef; then deep-fried and served with the ever-present house tamarind chutney.

The palak paneer includes a house-made cheese swathed in a thick, smooth spinach sauce. A tomato and onion sauce is the base for the mixed vegetable curry, which is tossed with a selection of vegetables that vary depending on the chef and the season. Other classics like lamb madras, makhani murgh (butter chicken) in a tomato and butter sauce, and a rich chickpea curry all appear on the menu, and many of them are on the Friday lunch buffet. But if you like your curry hot be sure to let them know when you order, as most of the dishes are mildly spiced.

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