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Editorial Review

Reviewed in July/Aug '05 Issue of WHERE

One of Winnipeg’s favourite summer traditions is the side alley patio at Carlos & Murphy’s, regarded as the first outdoor patio in the city. This spot ideally captures the Mexican resort experience: wood-planked deck, lime-spiked Corona and refried beans on salty triangle chips. The experience transcends eating and drinking. It is what summer is all about. The restaurant’s interior is comfortable and casual with warm, unfinished woodwork, which makes it feel like a border roadhouse. But when the temperature rises, the patio is the place to be.

Nick and Jenny Diacos have run this Osborne Village mainstay for 20 years, no easy feat in one of Winnipeg’s trendiest neighbourhoods. Their secret is an operation with the precision of a well-oiled machine—thanks to servers and server assistants constantly on the ready and a prompt kitchen staff.

Rather than classic Mexican, the menu skews Tex-Mex, with burgers, wings and nachos joining enchiladas and burritos. It is anchored by the king of appetizers, Carlos’ Nachos. This is a plate crowned by chips bejeweled with tomatoes, black olives, jalapenos, onions and green peppers. Jack cheese is the jester that keeps it all lively. This signature dish is reason enough to visit the restaurant. But if further encouragement is needed look to the exceptional wings. Murphy’s chicken wings sooth spice-sensitive palates with their syrupy barbeque sauce, but Carlos’ wings will get your lips tingling with their snappy coating.

Enchiladas are very substantial, smothered in cheese and a powder-hot red chile sauce. The plate is rounded out with a mound of thick, fluffy refried beans and a pile of rice. These, plus the tacos and burritos all come with a choice of filling. Spicy ground beef is a smooth, satisfying, slighty piquant mixture. With chicken and almond, the almonds are the dominant partner. Beef and onion offers a textural crunch.

A fun alternative to these stuffed options is carne piquante. This rich lasagne-style layering of flour tortillas is interspersed with a blend of spicy ground beef, tomatoes, veggies and cheddar.

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