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Editorial Review

Reviewed in Jan/Feb '04 Issue of WHERE

Thanks to the Mobile Maître D’ delivery service, you need only answer your doorbell for tightly rolled bundles of Mooshiro sushi. It’s just one of many ways that this year-old, 80-seat sushi bistro has distinguished itself in the hotly competitive Japanese restaurant market. Another is through its decor. Rather than the serene trickle of water fountains and translucent rice paper screens, Mooshiro boasts a stylish, contemporary interior. Cool curtains made of bamboo rustle like a modern version of 1960s beaded curtains, funky techno music plays in the backgound, and the sake bar boasts sleek black and chrome stools. Certainly there are traditional touches—your waitress wears a gold and black kimono—but the overall feel of the space is more hip-Toyko than provincial Japan.

The menu also offers a few modern twists (sushi pizza, anyone?) and is clearly geared to the still-uneasy-with-raw-fish North American customer. Many lunch, sushi bar, and dinner specials are listed, which make ordering less daunting. There is also a lot more meat on the menu than other sushi bars, everything from pork cutlets to broiled beef. You would do better to stick with what you came for, namely fish.

But for an appetizer, try the japchae, Korean noodles that are clear in colour and resemble vermicelli. The noodles are seasoned tastefully and decorated with pan-fried vegetables. Also interesting is the teriyaki tofu. Large wedges of tofu are deep-fried and served with a bowl of teriyaki sauce for dipping.

The sushi, sashimi and maki selections are carefully and creatively prepared. One special maki roll to try is the signature Mooshiro roll. Wrapped with cucumber, it offers a cool contrast to the salmon, tuna, and snapper tucked inside. As well, ruby-red flying fish roe comes on the side, a crunchy, pop-in-your-mouth accompaniment. Although the dynamite roll is present on many city menus, Mooshiro’s version is especially tasty. Despite being filled with a huge deep-fried prawn, avocado, cucumber, and lettuce, the roll is a manageable one-bite size. The taste is varied, combining creamy with crunchy, and mild, subtle tastes that do not overpower each other. Another interesting roll is the bakudan, covered entirely in tempura flakes and filled with scallop, spicy mayo and tobiko.

The city stand-by spicy tuna roll is excellent. Rather than just a squirt of bottled hot sauce, a rich house-made sauce is laid inside and atop the roll, adding a fiery kick. This sauce is also used to accent the spicy chopped scallop sushi, which has a generous portion of scallop lying decadently on top. What contrasts well with all of the spice is a bite of the seasoned pumpkin maki, which offers a sweet, soft flavour.

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