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Editorial Review

Reviewed in May/June '05 issue of WHERE

Nobody thought it was going to last. He was too tall for her, and she, quite frankly, could be a bit of a cold fish. So everyone was shocked when the union began to flourish. That was when the fun began. And thus the marriage between martini and sushi became legend.

This story was first told in Winnipeg by Meiji Sushi (pronounced may-jee) in Osborne Village. Along with its adjacent G Martini Bar, the restaurant, owned by Don, Minh, and Sam Hoang, has been welcoming the city’s urban professional crowds since 2000. Today, ordering Crazy Monkey Sex with salmon sashimi seems absolutely commonplace, the powerful sugar of the drink is toned down by the subtle fish.

Meiji is simple and soothing in a way that only Japanese restaurants can manage. The rooms have a wine cellar feel thanks to sandstone walls. In one room calming blue lights shine down, lending a moon-like shine to the tables. Meiji gets its name from the Meiji era (1868-1912), which can be likened to England’s Elizabethan age. This was the time of Japanese modernization, which skyrocketed the country to world power status at incredible speed. In 1867, 14 year-old emperor Mutsuhito took the name Meiji, which means “enlightened rule”.

At Meiji, the enlightened diner orders a round of martinis straight away. All are sugary and bold—in fact, if there is one disappointment it’s the traditional gin martini, whose olives are sad and small. One martini of merit is the raspberry chocolate cream, which is a mix of vodka, crème de cacao, raspberry liqueur and cream. It tastes like a raspberry milkshake with that ever-so-nice kick of vodka filling in at the end. Other hits are the Southern Magnolia and Tennessee Waltz.

Meiji’s menu is light and breezy, geared to satisfy happy hour and dinner appetites alike. There are many, many rolls from which to choose, which can make ordering dizzying. Luckily, you have two options: choose a complete dinner, with miso, cucumber salad and rice; or enlist the help of Meiji’s servers, who will step in and get you decided.

For an appetizer, try the soft shell crabs. Their shells soft from moulting, the crabs have been dipped in batter and quickly deep-fried. The result is an engaging textural mix of crunchy and succulent. The spicy marinated tuna is also a must. The tuna is daintily grilled, with just a paper-thin layer of white surrounding the ruby center. The chile sauce is unapologetically spicy, which works well with the delicate fish.

Meiji’s rolls are hefty, so if there is a half order option, choose it—you will be able to try more variety before you get that “I can’t eat another bite of fish” sushi feeling. The futomaki is unique for its syrupy flavour, thanks to the dry fish that is packed inside. Enhancing the roll are slivers of shiitake and egg that eagerly act as sponges and soak up the sweetness. The rainbow roll is one of the most beautiful renditions we’ve seen. Strips of tuna, salmon, shrimp, scallop and squid intermingle atop the roll, creating a kaleidoscopic effect. The inside out Toyko Express roll is also eye-catching with its white rice splashed with vivid orange masago and then filled with golden, buttery yellowtail, tuna, green onion and the crunch of tempura. If you’re eager for barbecued eel (in Japan whole menus are dedicated to it), the butterfly roll is a good start, with avocado, tempura and sesame seeds accompanying the sweet, rough eel.

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