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Editorial Review

Reviewed in Jan/Feb '05 issue of WHERE

A contemporary slate structure, The Inn at The Forks sits amidst the gentrified warehouses and railway buildings that comprise this ancient meeting ground-cum-tourist destination. It is the perfect setting for Winnipeg’s first real boutique hotel and spa, and home to The Current Restaurant and Lounge.

The views from the corner lounge of the action at The Forks and the downtown skyline may simply be the best in the city; so if possible, dining in the lounge is recommended—the full menu is available here. The decor reflects a subtle water-theme, with waves of glass framing the lounge, and more waves circling both rooms through the carpeting. Aquatic art is found throughout the public spaces, and the spa even has an indoor river flowing to a waterwall.

The cooking of Executive Chef Barry Saunders, formerly of Green Gates, is also very artistic. He has written a menu that uses the best quality ingredients available (sourcing many from The Forks Market) to feature many of his favourite foods. His dishes are peppered with regional twists on classic favourites, such as roasted tomato bisque with Manitoba wild rice, and Yudyta’s Market Perogies—a sweet potato and rosemary perogy served with caramelized onion, crème fraiche and a balsamic syrup.

The food is skilfully presented, full of flavour without being too heavy. Together with the view and central location, it has quickly made this restaurant a favourite power lunching spot, while the city lights magically transform the space in the evening.

It’s no wonder the cooking is a draw, with soups like perfectly balanced plum beet borscht, or caramelized onion, with its ideal cheese-to-broth ratio. A traditional croque monsieur gets deliciously updated with the addition of asparagus. Twin towers of mushroom and goat cheese strudel served on a river of balsamic reduction offer a fine textural contrast; with a creamy, melt-in-your-mouth filling inside the crisp phyllo pastry. The arugula salad with poached pear and candied walnuts is good, though cloying. It could benefit from the addition of a sharp aged cheese.

Overall the dishes are very well executed; chicken piccata is moist, tender, and drizzled with a well-balanced lemon sauce. However, porcini pappardelle with blue cheese, rosemary butter, cabernet and black truffle oil proves disappointing, with too many conflicting bold flavours in a too runny sauce.

To finish the meal there are many options. Peppered strawberries with Grand Marnier and white chocolate cream is the preferred finale. Stunning in its simplicity, it is the perfect end to any meal. The balance between the acidity of the strawberries, the sharp sweetness of the liqueur, the spicy kick of the crushed black pepper, and the velvety-smooth richness of the chocolate cream is truly outstanding.

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