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Editorial Review

Reviewed in Feb/March '07 issue of Ciao!

Amici introduced gourmet Italian cuisine to Winnipeg two decades ago, soaring to the top alongside the city’s classic French restaurants. Its Tuscan-styled cooking under the steady hand of Chef Heinz Kattenfeld garnered the restaurant national acclaim. This fall the dining room colours were updated to a modern, rich cranberry and warm vanilla. But this classic, split level room continues to be one of the best old-school fine dining experiences in the city under the direction of Kattenfeld prodigies Chef Patrick Shrupka and Owner Brian McKnight.

Service is famously good here—the servers are all well versed on the menu, wine list and the dizzying list of specials which changes every few days. Although Tuscan-influenced, dishes from other Italian regions appear on the menu as well. It is arranged in the traditional primi, secondi and pesce (seafood) sections. However tempting it may be to order the Italian way, one from each, be aware that the portions are large.

The dining experience begins with the once ubiquitous crunchy bread sticks, fresh focaccia and olive bread served with herbed red pepper and garlic butters. These salty-sweet spreads prove an excellent way to prime your appetite.

To start, acqua cotta is a must-have. The traditional Tuscan soup arrives in two parts. The first is a bowl with sautéed mushrooms, tomatoes and herbs delicately arranged on the bottom. The second is a rich and flavourful broth swirling with cheese-infused egg drops that is poured over the vegetables. The broth is delicious, scented with garlic and herbs and brings back cool evenings in Tuscany. Carpaccio is another good option, served here with a twist. Paper-thin layers of tender beef are concentrically arranged on a large platter and topped with an intriguing mixture of puréed fresh vegetables and olive oil. This mix of sweet, fresh flavours pairs well with the rich beef and is further balanced by the garnish of julienne red pepper, red onion and black olives. The accompanying thickly sliced garlic crostini is tasty, but the meat is perfect on its own.

If it’s a smaller bite you’re after, try the risotto de funghi di bosco—a wild mushroom scented risotto topped with fresh thyme and feathery ribbons of parmesan and pecorino. The creamy risotto is earthy with the addition of grilled wild mushrooms and benefits from the salty cheese with hints of herby freshness.

One primi that comes out a sure winner is gnocchi al forno con salsicce. Tender puffs of potato gnocchi are baked in a sweet, herbed rose sauce. The sliced Italian sausage, topped with asiago adds welcome saltiness. The result is a hearty, yet elegantly presented dish of comfort food. Costolette d’agnello con ragu di pomodori e pinole is also noteworthy. Tender lamb chops sit atop a sweet and rich sauce dotted with pine nuts. The tomato is not evident, but the rich, dark sauce paired with a stack of roasted peppers and zucchini layered with goat cheese is excellent. Another outstanding dish is perca don noce e arugula. Amazingly succulent sea bass is crusted in crushed pine nuts and bathed in a pale buttery sauce, hints of lemon and accents of julienne red peppers and peppery arugula. The crisp, nutty crust overs a slight crunch as the tender fish melts in your mouth.

The dessert menu is also impressive, with many delectable options. If you can’t come to a conclusion try the zabaglione. The custard is creamy and smooth with warm vanilla notes, filled with fresh berries and garnished with an anise flavoured biscotti—a good chaser.

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