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Editorial Review

Reviewed in April/May '07 Issue of Ciao! magazine

Long before open kitchens and chef’s tables became trendy, Ichiban Japanese Steakhouse was offering its own style of celebrity chef presentation with the theatre of teppanyaki. Ichiban, a downtown institution since 1973, is currently riding the convergence of two hot trends—the health benefits of Japanese food and the entertainment value of chefs cooking. What was once an unusual gimmick is now au courant in foodie circles. As a result, Ichiban is packing in the crowds to see utensil-juggling, jokester chefs fire up the crowd, along with the grill.

This type of teppanyaki cooking is a North American innovation, which features fresh ingredients grilled on a hot iron plate with a melodramatic air. It’s an ideal setting for a celebratory affair.

At Ichiban, the expansive, multi-tiered dining room is filled with horseshoe-shaped tables, each straddling its own gleaming teppan. They can seat parties of six to 20 people. If you’re a dining duo or trio, expect to be seated with another party, which only adds to the theatrical quality of the night. The show begins when a yukata-clad hostess guides you over a small bridge into the Japanese garden-style dining area. The décor is serene, with shoji screens, round paper lanterns and cherry blossoms, but the Zen-like energy is quickly interrupted by the sizzle of the teppan, hollers from the chefs and the “oohs” and “aahs” of dazzled diners.

There’s little commotion over the straightforward menu, though. It is succinctly anchored by multi-course dinners made up of your choice of one to three entrées: filet mignon, baby lobster, teriyaki chicken, shrimp or teriyaki scallops.

The first course arrives at the table: a modest soup of chicken broth and vegetables, which, along with a cup of Japanese green tea, relaxes everyone before the high-octane cooking show. Then enters the charismatic, superstar chef. These chefs are the top of the cooking hierarchy at Ichiban, often committing years as a busboy, line chef or sushi chef, before being handed a holster of knives and the license to entertain. They start with a two-fold appetizer—a pile of rice bowls, which the chef effortlessly flips and juggles using only a metal flipper, and a mound of shimmering chicken livers. The livers pop and crackle on the ultra-hot plate as the chef seamlessly dices and sautés them with sake and butter. The result is a delectably saucy starter. The third course, sunomono, acts as a refreshing palate cleanser.

The ideal entrée combination is the filet mignon and scallops. Tender cubes of steak are expertly prepared, requiring little effort to devour. Pillows of teriyaki-bathed scallops are heavenly. Entrées are preceded with a side of rice, and the fried rice is certainly worth the additional charge. It is bountiful with fresh vegetables and not to be missed.

The climax of the evening comes when the chef turns off the overhead vent light, douses a bouquet of vegetables in sake and ignites it. The size and heat of the flame never fails to elicit a response.

Then it’s a sleight of hand routine with salt and pepper shakers, where the chef spins, juggles and tosses the utensils at lightning speed. He exits with a bow and leaves you to enjoy a scoop of exotic green tea or ginger ice cream, two flavours that equally round out the experience. Reservations are highly recommended. Even still, due to the volume of large parties and a set number of chefs, turn-around time for tables often overlaps later reservations. A pagoda bar and sushi bar hold waiting diners.

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