Where publisher Jack Newton says that Jasper Brewing Co crafts “genuinely good beer,” noting that offerings at brewpubs elsewhere
occasionally “leave something to be desired.” (Jack fancies himself a beer aficionado.) Jasper Brewing Co recipes begin with pure Canadian Rockies water. Premium hops and malts, plus their own cultured yeast are usually the only other ingredients, although their Honey Bear Ale also includes Okanagan clover honey and coriander.—Ally McConnell
Jasper & Area
Jasper’s Brew
Monday, March 22nd, 2010Aromatic Cures
Monday, March 22nd, 2010
Spa Products from Mountain Wellness Day Spa
Mountain Wellness Day Spa’s Kirsten Boisvert hand blends organic aromatherapy oils in 12 formulations. Some scents help with mental and physical ailments, while others promote harmony and balance. These fragrant oils are used during the spa’s massage and facial treatments, and can be purchased ($15.50, $18.50). At home, add drops to your bath, dab on the skin or mix with coconut oil ($18.50) to make a massage blend. You heat the oil in a diffuser ($21.50) to scent a room.
Insider’s Guide to Skiing Banff, Lake Louise, Jasper, Kananaksis, Golden & Panorama
Monday, December 7th, 2009
Sunshine Village credit Richard Hallman
Seven ski areas, tons of snow and a November through May ski season. A world-class combination of ski terrain, high-speed lifts and on-hill amenities. No wonder Banff, Jasper and area draws skiers and snowboarders from around the world. Read on for insider ideas to help you make the most of your time on the slopes.
Jasper National Park
At 10,878 sq km (4200 sq mi), Jasper is Canada’s largest Mountain Park. Its ski area is big too. We like Marmot Basin for its lack of pretension and crowds (you seldom wait for a lift). The overall ski experience is amongst the best in Canada.
Connecting Lake Louise to Jasper, the 230 km (143 mi) Icefields Parkway (Hwy 93) is lined by peaks of the Continental Divide; 100 glaciers flank its western side and wildlife sightings are common. Drive with plenty of gas, and take food and warm clothes; for road conditions call 780-852-3311 (Jasper), 403-762-1450 (Banff).
Mountain Connector (1-888-786-3641) offers daily shuttles to Jasper from Banff, Calgary and Edmonton through April. They co-ordinate multi-day packages and Jasper sightseeing and activities.
Eagle's Nest at Marmot Basin
Marmot Basin Ski Area
Located 20 minutes south of Jasper townsite (shuttle bus available), Marmot’s 1675 acres include huge alpine bowls framed by rugged pinnacles and ridges. Tree-lined runs and snowmaking are lower mountain features, while the Rogers Terrain Park is off the Paradise chair. Enjoy the 100 peak view everywhere.
Insider tips:
• New quad: The Canadian Rockies Express is the region’s longest high-speed quad; ride 2.3 km (1.4 mi) up in 7.5 min.
• Efficient rentals: It’s a streamlined process to get Head gear. Free overnight storage saves lugging skis to and from town.
• Private guide: $438 buys an all-day guide/instructor for up to 3; get lift line priority and access to the best pistes.
• Route picks: Open terrain lets you choose a run while riding the lift; there’s an easy way down off every chair.
• Food favourites: Poutine (fries with cheese and gravy) is in high demand; cafeterias serve all-day breakfasts.
• Sit down lunch: Eagle’s Nest (mid mountain chalet), and Caribou Lounge (base) offer service weekends and holidays.
• Best Tan: Sunshine saturates Kokanee Glacier Deck off Caribou Lounge; enjoy great views.
• Expert run for intermediates: Try black Showoff and Highway 16 off Paradise chair if they’ve been recently groomed.
• Big powder: Ski the Knob chair after a snowfall for above treeline lines. For hidden powder, hike skier’s left 10-minutes from the Eagle Ridge chair to Cornice run. Or, cross gates to ski open slopes and glades of Eagle East. Or, take Keefer’s Dream off the Paradise chair and through the easy-to-miss gate on the left; watch closely for the outrun on the right.
Banff National Park
Mt Norquay, Sunshine Village and Lake Louise are Banff’s Big 3, a 7750-acre alpine paradise so big you could ski for a month and never take the same run twice. Forget images you have of massive slopeside development at resorts like Whistler. In Canada’s first national park the protected, majestic wilderness remains intact.
Volcom Rail Jam at Lake Louise credit Mathew Timmins
Lake Louise Ski Area
Located north of Lake Louise Village and 35 minutes west of Banff townsite, The Lake racks up accolades such as Skiing magazine’s “most scenic resort.” With runs on four mountain faces, this is Canada’s largest single ski area. You can find sun-lit slopes all times of day.
Ride the 6-person Grizzly Express Gondola 3 km (2 mi) from the base to an upper ridge. From mid mountain, the Canadian Rockies’ only 6-person high-speed chairlift (The 6-Pack) goes to the Saddle. There are 139 named bowls, chutes and tree-lined runs. Beginner to advanced routes from every chair makes the entire resort accessible to all, and a new simplified trail map makes it easy to find your way.
Insider tips:
• Killer blog: Read Lake Louise Lowdown on their website for Mountain Operations’ Chris Mosley photos and insights.
• Valet parking: Pay $27.50 to park out front. But, we find the ample free parking with car-to-lift shuttles convenient.
• Infant daycare: Veteran child-care specialist Jane Herman takes infants from 18 days old. Imagine Mom ripping up the slopes 18 days after giving birth!
• Slope for kids: They love the animal cutouts at the Wilderness Adventure Park.
• Fresh powder: Book First Tracks after a snowfall. $99 gets up to five people a guide and rides up the hill a half hour before lifts open to the public.
• Air time: Last year The Lake re-introduced Terrain Park jumps; this year shredders find more air and rail jam features.
• Backside: Frontside views of Lake Louise and Temple Mountain are famous. But we marvel at the rugged backside powder bowls with 2500 acres of open skiing and steeps.
• Favourite chutes: Summit Platter accesses Whitehorn 2 backside chutes that trap blowing snow. Intermediates can tour the entire backside by traversing left to Boomerang.
• Old school lift: We like the uncrowded Paradise triple that accesses powder bowls and chutes of Paradise, Eagle Ridge and The Wall.
• Timing is everything: On busy days lines form for Larch and Ptarmigan quads. So, we ski here early for corduroy and during lunch when crowds thin.
• “We serve Starbucks”: Slopeside Coffee Kiosk at the base.
• $5.25 Canadian beer: We drink ours outdoors at base area Kokanee Kabin with fire pit, or newly expanded Powderkeg Lounge upstairs in Lodge of Ten Peaks with leather seats and organic crust pizzas.
• Crowd alert: Temple Lodge at Larch gets busy on peak days. Otherwise, we love this rustic chalet with cafeteria, big BBQ deck and full service Sawyer’s Nook (try the lamb burger).
• Downhill at Dusk: Spend Fri night at this buffet dinner and live music event (p 39).
• Wilderness retreat: Access log-built 1930s Skoki Lodge by an 11 km (7 mi) backcountry ski over two mountain passes.
Sunshine Village
Located 8 km (5 mi) west of Banff via Hwy 1 is Canada’s highest ski resort with the nation’s longest ski season. Sunshine is blessed with awesome natural snow that shows 24/7 on its webcams. The resort straddles the Continental Divide; ski Boundary Bowl that begins in Alberta, passes into BC, and ends back in Alberta.
Sunshine is 81 years old, but its lifts are modern. From the base, ride the world’s fastest 8-passenger gondola to the region’s biggest concentration of high-speed quad chairs. Built on three mountains, much of the terrain is above treeline, which affords views to 80 km (50 mi). Look south to see Mt Assiniboine, “Canada’s Matterhorn.”
Insider tips:
• Arrive early: On busy days parking lots fill leaving only roadside parking, so get here by 9:30 am or take a ski bus. Fortunately, shuttles run from your car to the gondola. $25 gets you VIP parking.
• Cruisers’ heaven: Try the open bowl off the Continental Divide quad, and Goat’s Eye blue runs that start open and become tree-lined.
• Best slopes of the day: For the best light and snow, ski Goat’s Eye in morning, and Lookout and Standish in the afternoon.
• Amazing steeps: Delirium Dive, Wild West and Silver City freeride zones are open to those with partner, shovel and avalanche beacon (rentals at Banff Springs Sports). The Dive is our favourite run at Sunshine; most access the slope down the stairs, but we prefer the small cornice jump at far skier’s left. Sunshine offers guided tours down Delirium.
• More amazing steeps: No avalanche beacon is needed for Goat’s Eye black/double black gullies and glades on skier’s left.
• Trick treasure: A Park Bully grooms the Terrain Park.
• Novice alternative: Most stick to gentle terrain off the slow Strawberry chair. Instead, ride high-speed lifts and take Green Run off Angel and Borderline and Creek Runs off Standish.
• Old-time skiing: Ride the ancient Tee Pee Town double to access steep and rugged slopes that never see a groomer.
• Snowhost: Hook up in front of Mad Trappers Saloon at noon for free mountain tours.
• Coffee time: Starbucks at Java Express in the Day Lodge.
• Beer time: Mad Trapper’s Saloon, in the 1928 log lodge.
• Lunch time: Chimney Corner Restaurant & Sports Bar with table service and sports big screens at Sunshine Lodge.
• Overnight: Sunshine Mountain Lodge is Banff’s only on-hill hotel (1-877-542-2633). Get a luxury suite with jetted tub and fireplace in the new wing. Go during Taste of Sunshine wine and food pairing events Dec 12, Jan 23, Feb 20, Mar 20 and Apr 17.
Mt Norquay
Banff’s original ski area (established 1926) is where locals go when they should be working and where their kids learn to ski and race. Canadian ski legend Ken Read along with other ski enthusiasts intent on preserving the family-friendly character of Norquay are the resort owners.
This is home mountain to World Cup gold medalist Thomas Grandi; he’s the one that skied by you like you were standing still. Giver Grandi run honours Banff’s favourite son.
Located 10 minutes north of downtown Banff (Norquay Rd over Hwy 1), this resort is a good choice for a mellow day, or few-hour escape. You’re treated to Cascade Mountain views, and summit cliffs give the area a rugged feel and shelter ski runs below. The snowmaking system blows tons of white stuff, and nightly grooming of all beginner and intermediate runs makes Norquay great for fall-line cruising.
Insider tips:
• Fresh corduroy: Arrive at opening (9 am) for Giver Grandi, Banshee and Knight Flight cruisers. Even on weekends there is never a lift line.
• Canada’s first double blacks: Tackle steep lines off the North American chair after the sun has softened the bumps.
• Ski by the hour: Norquay offers unique hourly lift pass options; its day rates are the least pricey of all Banff resorts.
• Floodlit slopes: Cascade quad runs and the Backyard Terrain Park are lit 5 to 10 pm, Wed (Jan 27 to Mar 24) and Fri (Jan 8 to Mar 26).
• Pub pleasures: The post and beam daylodge has a cafeteria, but try full service dining at Lone Pine Pub; musicians play Sat and Sun noon to 4:30 pm.
• Non-skiing fun: New is Norquay’s tubing park with four wide shoots (great for racing) and a dedicated lift.
Bordering Banff
Between Banff and Calgary is Nakiska, while west and south of Banff are the Kootenay Rockies’ Kicking Horse and Panorama Mountain Resorts.
Kicking Horse credit Mike McPhee
Kicking Horse Mountain Resort
Called the “Champagne Capital of Canada” for its abundant dry snow, Kicking Horse is near Golden under two hours west of Banff and one hour from Lake Louise via Hwy 1 and Yoho National Park (at Spiral Tunnel viewpoint see a feat of railway engineering).
Kicking Horse Resort is named for an accident that befell Sir James Hector during his 1858 railroad route quest. Hector was presumed dead after being kicked by a horse but regained consciousness as he was being prepared for burial.
Highlights of the ski area are three rugged powder bowls, and the Golden Eagle Express gondola that shuttles skiers quickly from base to upper ridge in comfy 8-person cabins. It’s a long, exhilarating run down the highest vertical rise of all Canadian Rockies resorts (1260 m/4133 ft).
Insider tips:
• Ditch your car: Take the daily Powder Express shuttle (403-760-5465) from your Banff or Lake Louise hotel, a bargain at $89 with lift pass.
• Amazing glades: Drop into the trees from the CPR Ridge traverse off the gondola.
• Best steeps: Take Whitewall into Feuz Bowl (once heliski domain); ride the Stairway to Heaven quad and go right.
• Family zone: Wildlife-themed Horse Play Corral has contour grooming and play trails.
• Tubing: Take the surface lift by the daylodge up and ride a tube down; no skill required. Sat night is “disco tubing.”
• Kids Club: Enroll 18-month to 5-year-olds; you make turns.
• “Hidden” village eateries: Try Sushi Kuma, Horse Thief Café and The Peaks Bar & Grill.
• Ice rink: Rent skates on-site; join Wed “hockey night” fun.
• Dawn Mountain Nordic Trails: 30 km (18.6 mi) of groomed classic and skate skiing. A cozy hut with is one km (.6 mi) from the trailhead.
• Ski-in/out lodging: Book at 1-866-754-5425; go for $2195 a night Eagle Eye Suite with personal ski instructor, valet, meals and first tracks for two.
• Canada’s highest restaurant: Eagle’s Eye at 2350 m/7700 ft has a fireplace, vaulted ceilings and stunning views; the food is good too! On busy days arrive early or late to avoid the noon rush. Reserve Fri or Sat dinner with free gondola ride.
Panorama Mountain Village
Located two hours from Banff via Hwy 93S, the drive to Panorama is though Kootenay National Park. Stop for a half hour walk at Marble Canyon.
At the resort, three quads (2 high-speed) ascend a 1220 m (4000 ft) vertical rise. This year Founders Ridge runs have been graded making this intermediate slope more fun to ski. Try the new Taynton Bowl expert area off the View of 1000 Peaks run.
Insider tips:
• Banff ski bus: It’s $99 with lift pass; reserve 403-762-5900.
• Steep and deep: Big Taynton Bowl is former heliski terrain; also try Extreme Dream.
• Carving capers: Check posted grooming reports and ski early for corduroy on long cruisers.
• Beginner haven: A fenced area is serviced by a 135 m (443 ft) long Magic Carpet.
• Air show: Enjoy Terrain Park antics while riding Mile 1 quad.
• Night ski: Toby Chair runs are lit some weekends/holidays.
• Adventure Club: 8 to 14 year olds learn and lunch 10:30 am to 3 pm while parents play.
• Hot pools: On-hill guests (1-800-663-2929) access the Panorama Springs complex.
Nakiska Ski Area
Host of the ‘88 Olympics, Nakiska is 15 min south of Hwy 1 via Hwy 40, near Kananaskis Village. Snowmaking, a long run down and slopes that are groomed nightly make this cruise and carve crowd favourite. Slow skiing and self-contained beginner zones are family-friendly, while upper slopes offer steeps and glades.
Insider tips:
• New quad: Ride the Gold Chair Express to access upper mountain runs including the new Monster Glades.
• Ski early: Nakiska is best in the morning when the grooming is fresh, crowds are light, and the slopes are sun-lit.
• Best eats: Try the upstairs restaurant/bar with table service, fireplace and sports TV.
Kimchi: A Korean Culinary Icon
Monday, October 5th, 2009
Cabbage Kimchi
Kimchi (to preserve) is a traditional Korean side dish of pickled and spiced vegetables, typically served as spicy cabbage (baechu). The Korean Aerospace Research Institute created a ‘space kimchi’ to accompany the first Korean astronaut. To satisfy your kim-chi fix, try Kimchi House. —RM
Ancient Artifact
Monday, October 5th, 2009
Tusk at Our Native Land
Woolly mammoths were denizens of Canada’s north until they became extinct at the end of the last Ice Age. This 3 m (10 ft) tusk with full cavity and tip, displayed at Our Native Land, is from a matriarch that lived to 80 years old. Complete mammoth tusks cost $4000 to well over $100,000 depending on size, shape and the amount of restoration. — JN
Feast for the Eyes
Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009
Tenderloin at Evil Dave's Grill
Eating can fuel the body and ignite the senses. At Evil Dave’s Grill, diners’ expectations are heightened by artful presentations. Large, square, white plates provide a canvas upon which chefs create. “Each dish is uniquely displayed to draw attention to different aspects of the meal,” notes co-owner Mike Day. Patrons often photograph their dish prior to feasting! —RM
The Berry Best
Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009
White chocolate raspberry scones
Bears are known to have a weakness for berries, so it’s only fitting the most popular item at Bear’s Paw Bakery is their raspberry white chocolate scone. Bite into the flaky, homemade scone and savour the made-for-each-other combo of sweet chocolate chunks and tart raspberry. —RM
Rail Heritage
Monday, July 27th, 2009
VIA Rail
The railway has been part of Jasper since 1911.
- Admire the arts and crafts architecture of the restored 1926 Jasper Heritage Train Station
- See 1923 CNR steam locomotive 6015, displayed by the station
- Read railway interpretive panels along the Discovery Trail that parallels the tracks
- Visit Jasper-Yellowhead Museum railway history displays
- Take in Yellowhead Pass, Fraser River and Mt Robson during a half day train tour with SunDog Tours or Jasper Adventure Centre. —JN
Jasper’s Original Landmark Building
Monday, July 27th, 2009
Jasper Info Centre by Brian Catto
The newly renovated 1914 Jasper Information Centre is the impossible-to-miss stone and timber national historic site in the centre of town (it now has a brown roof). Originally home and office to Jasper Park’s first superintendent, its arts and craft architecture influenced later buildings such as the 1926 railway station across the street. Drop by to consult with Park Canada and Jasper Tourism counsellors, and to peruse the Friends of Jasper store. Learn about history during free Jasper…A Walk in the Past tours that depart here. —RM
Timely Trails
Monday, July 27th, 2009
Angel Glacier and Pond by Andrew Hempstead
Eager to hike but limited by time? Paula Beauchamp, owner of Walks & Talks, suggests:
Remnants of glaciation can be seen on Path of the Glacier at Mt Edith Cavell. Drive the windy access road and walk the 1.6 km (1 mi) trail to iceberg filled Cavell Pond. Here you stand across from aptly named Angel Glacier. Detour 3.2 km (2 mi) to Cavell Meadows.
Park at 5th Bridge and walk Maligne Canyon upstream to 3rd Bridge to see the most interesting (and less travelled) part of the trail. Medicine Lake waters flow into the canyon through 30 km (19 mi) of subterranean channels. —RM
Clash of Horns
Monday, July 27th, 2009
Courtesy Travel Alberta
The large, curled horns of the male Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep can weigh up to 14 kg (30 lbs), more than all its bones combined! Rams use their horns as a status symbol and weapon when fighting for dominance or mating rights. Combatants rear up and charge at up to 32 km (20 mi) an hour. The clash of horns echoes through the mountains as the encounter repeats (sometimes for hours) until one ram submits and walks away. Murray Morgan of Jasper Adventure Ctr suggests watching for bighorn sheep by the Athabasca River bridge where Maligne Rd meets Hwy 16. —RM
Cycling to Views
Monday, July 27th, 2009
Biking Pyramid Bench courtesy Jasper Tourism
Wendy Hall of Freewheel Cycle suggests Pyramid Trunk Trail for an easy, two-hour ride offering a steady elevation gain, and stunning townsite and Pyramid Mountain views. The 15 km (9 mi) wooded route starts behind the Jasper-Yellowhead Museum and ends at Pyramid Lake. Take corners slowly to avoid hikers! —RM
Walk on Snow
Monday, January 5th, 2009
Photo courtesy of Travel Alberta
Explore by snowshoe—sport stores offer rentals, and guides offer tours. Try:
Pyramid Lake Island: From Pyramid Lake Resort (closed winter) snowshoe the unplowed road to the lake. Follow the shoreline and cross the footbridge to the island. There’s interpretive panels, picnic tables and impressive Pyramid Mountain that glows red at sunset.
Maligne Lake: Snowshoe the left shoreline 1 km (.6 mi) to Mary Schäffer lookout, a sunny spot (great for a picnic) with benches, interpretive panels and the famous lake, mountain and glacier view. —Mark Horejsi
Icy Quiet
Monday, January 5th, 2009
Photo by Hugh Lecky
Since ice walks through Maligne Canyon are popular, Jasper Adventure Center guide Murray Morgan suggests that the most serene time to admire the towering walls of limestone and ice is at night when few visit. “The moonlit canyon is surreal, and sounds carry better in the night—if you listen closely you can hear water dripping behind the ice,” says Murray. Tour participants each have headlamps and guides use 2-million candlepower lanterns. But at the Cathedral everyone turns off their light and gazes upwards at millions of stars. Highlight of the trip, day or night, is the 20 m (65 ft) high Queen of Maligne comprised of many layers of giant icicles. — Mark Horejsi
This Route was Made for Walking
Monday, January 5th, 2009
Photo courtesy of Parks Canada
Walk circles around Jasper on the 8 km (5 mi) Discovery Trail that rings the town. Shod your tootsies in appropriate footwear, as the trail isn’t cleared of snow (except the short paved portion). Along its south side, the gentle path parallels Connaught Dr. The north part presents moderate ups and downs following contours of Pyramid Bench, and offers nice views of town and three valleys. Interpretive plaques and directional maps guide and give insights on the area. — Lisa Stephens
View From the Top
Monday, January 5th, 2009
Photo by Marmot Basin
With a Marmot Basin lift pass comes access to some of the Canadian Rockies finest views. These skiers and boarders on Paradise are eyeing Chalet Slope runs and glades—a close look reveals towers of the Eagle Ridge quad chairlift. Cloud-kissed Athabasca River Valley peaks comprise the scenic backdrop with Mount Hardisty rising above all. — Jack Newton
Ice Walk: Cline Gallery, East of the Icefields Parkway
Monday, January 5th, 2009
Cline Gallery. Photo by Martha's Heli-hikes
Walk the frozen Cline River into an icefall-lined limestone canyon that rises to 50 m (150 ft) and narrows to 1.2 m (4 ft). World-class climbers can often be seen tackling routes such as Pure Energy and Nightmare on Elm Street. Those on the guided tour only need trek the 4 km (4.5 mi) one-way—they’re treated to a helicopter ride return. The signed parking lot is on Hwy 11, 47 km (29 mi) east of Hwy 93, about a 1.5-hour drive from Lake Louise. —Jack Wennot
My First Facial
Monday, January 5th, 2009
I arrived at the spa giddy with anticipation. After completing a form on my face from products to pores, I entered a sweet smelling room with linen clad massage table. “Strip to your underwear and get under the heated blanket,” the esthetician instructed. Aaaaaaah, let the pampering begin!
The esthetician examined my face to locate ‘problem areas.’ Then she got to work. For over an hour, my face was nourished with a customized selection of hydrating, exfoliating, and pore minimizing creams. I received relaxing foot and arm massages while waiting for masks to set. The final touch was a gentle brush of organic sun block. I was beaming—my skin looked, and I felt, radiant. “Treat yourself to a facial every season,” the esthetician suggested. A good idea, I thought, as facials clear the complexion and help prevent premature aging.
— Nora O’Malley
Game
Friday, December 19th, 2008Villa Caruso chef Jean-Louis Espernel is proud of his wild game dishes. He offers bison, elk and boar from Alberta, pheasants from Quebec, and venison from Ontario. Since most game is lean, chef normally prepares dishes medium rare to enhance tenderness and flavour. — Mark Horejsi
Twist on Tradition
Friday, December 19th, 2008The famous rice dish of Spain originated as peasant fare cooked over an open fire. Paella, the Valencian word for a steel pan with round handles, was originally made with whatever ingredients were on hand, typically tomatoes, onions and snails. Rabbit, duck or chicken were added for special occasions. Times change—the paella at Jasper’s La Fiesta is chock full of meat and seafood (but no snails). “It’s the high grade saffron that gives the distinctive colour, flavour and aroma,” notes owner Andrew Nicholson. — Jack Newton
