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Jasper & Area

My Favourite Rockies: Locals Share Hidden Haunts

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010

The Canadian Rockies offer a vast array of attractions; peruse this website for hundreds of outdoor activity, indoor entertainment, shopping and dining ideas. From museums to historical sights, adventure tours to theatre performances, there truly is something for everyone.

Many of our region’s scenic places and best activities are well known, but some are a secret to all but area residents. So Where asked locals to share their eclectic ideas for fun.

Elk Bull image by John Marriott

Elk Bull image by John Marriott

Rockies by Foot
Visitors hike in summer, but locals hike year-round. Join residents for a stroll along riverside paths in the towns of Canmore, Banff, Lake Louise and Jasper. These trails are noted in Banff Area Sightseeing and Jasper Area Sightseeing.

Former Olympian and current Alberta Alpine president Ken Read notes: “A great winter hike is Stoney Squaw Mountain. It’s a 4 km (2.5 mi) loop from the Mt Norquay parking lot that’s popular throughout the winter for its great views of Cascade Mountain and the town of Banff.” After a morning of skiing, Ken sometimes walks the route as a refreshing alternative to his usual fitness routine.

“One of my favourite short trails is the Marsh Loop by Banff’s Cave and Basin,” says Where publisher Jack Newton. “Warm hot spring waters allow green plants to thrive even in winter, and rising steam creates artistic frost effects. Birds stay all winter on the tepid marsh water, and you can look down from the boardwalk to see fish.”

Jasper National Park media relations officer Wendy Niven recommends a visit to Pyramid Bench at dusk. From town, she runs either the plowed Pyramid Lake Rd or the scenic Pyramid Trunk Trail that parallels the road. It’s a steady, not difficult climb to pastoral Cottonwood Slough and Pyramid Mountain that glows red in the sunset. “Every time I go the sky, mountains and meadows look different. I see colours that include pink, purple, black and yellow,” enthuses Wendy. The route is 15 km (9 mi), but there are many rewarding views and you can turn back anytime.

Ski Slopes & Trails
In winter, most everyone comes to our area to downhill ski. After all, Canada’s pristine and rugged mountain parks have earned UNESCO World Heritage Site designation and boast some of the best skiing and snowboarding terrain on the planet (noted in Where’s Insider Guide).

Locals are enthusiast skiers too, and it’s likely you’ll meet a few, especially if you can handle the black runs most residents crave. “One of the best parts of living in Banff is that I’m only 15 minutes from getting in an hour or two of skiing,” says Banff Mayor John Stutz. “Afterward, I can carry on with the rest of my day in the office or the community.”

For an increasing number of fitness-minded locals, cross-country skiing is the winter sport of choice. You might find George Andrew, owner of the Astoria Hotel in Jasper, boosting his heart rate on Edith Cavell Rd; this steadily rising route is closed to traffic in winter. Shops such as Trail Sports in Canmore and Wild Mountain in Jasper, owned by Nordic ski enthusiasts John Gallagher and Dave Macdowell/Cam Wilson respectively, are great places to peruse the latest gear and get trail advice. Where lists some favourite cross-country ski trails in the Banff Area and the Jasper Area.

Impact Brochure Systems manager Warren Mackie often goes to the Canmore Nordic Centre for a skate ski before dinner. “One of my favorite routes is west from the stadium along curvy, undulating Bow Trail; I return on the flatter Banff Trail. This 13 km (8 mi) loop takes an hour if I get my wax right. But you may want to take more time to enjoy the quiet pine forest beauty, which seem a hundred miles from civilization.”

Spectacular Sights
All who drive the Canadian Rockies are awestruck by the mountain scenery. Where sightseeing by road itineraries are noted in Banff Area Sightseeing and Jasper Area Sightseeing sections; plus guided tours near Banff and Jasper. Even locals can’t help being continually impressed.

During winter, animals seek the shelter and roadside foraging opportunities of valleys. Your best chance of seeing elk, deer, coyotes, bighorn sheep and other wildlife are along Highways #40 through Kananaskis, #93 north of Radium Hot Springs, #16/Maligne Lake Rd southeast of Jasper, and the Icefields Parkway south of Jasper. Please watch your speed when driving and keep a healthy distance (three bus lengths) when photographing large animals.

Signature sights such as Lake Louise attract many visitors. Banff’s Johnston Canyon and Jasper’s Maligne Canyon are also popular, but for an ice canyon experience with a greater possibility for solitude, try Canmore’s Grotto Canyon. Where writes about Banff and Jasper canyon ice walks.

Michael Beamer of Beamer’s Coffee Bar has a special sightseeing suggestion: “I love going to Hidden Falls. I proposed to my wife there.” Walk the 2.5 km (1.5 mi) limestone-lined Heart Creek Trail that begins off Hwy 1 east of Canmore opposite Lac des Arcs. At trail’s end, the lovely little waterfall hides around the corner.

Skating the maintained ice on lakes and ponds in Kananaskis Village, Canmore, Banff Lake Louise and Jasper is an iconic winter treat; skate rentals are available in these towns. Less reliable but more enticing is gliding over the entire length of Banff’s Vermilion Lakes or Lac Beauvert at The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge during times when there is no snow (only go if locals are on the ice). Murray Morgan of Jasper Adventure Centre suggests looking down: “Sometimes you can see fish swimming beneath the smooth surface.”

Discover Banff Tours manager Daymon Miller loves the warmth and atmosphere created by a campfire during winter. He suggests making a fire at Lake Minnewanka picnic site at night: “watch the stars and drink mulled wine.” Murray Morgan sometimes stokes up the fire rings at 6th Bridge where the Maligne and Athabasca Rivers meet. Bring firewood, and smokies and marshmallows to roast.

Great Indoors
Our Mountain Parks may be best known for their great outdoors, but indoor life thrives too. Dining, shopping and pub-hopping are embraced by both visitors and locals; hidden gems are revealed in other sections of this website.

Don’t miss the fine small museums our communities have to offer, and entertainment that includes sports events, festivals and performing arts. Travellers too often overlook the world-class concerts, theatre and dance showcased at The Banff Centre.

Katie Daniel, communications specialist at Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies offers this suggestion: “If you love old photographs and treasure historic memories, visit the archives and library at our museum, open 1 to 5 pm Mon to Fri. You’ll find thousands of images of Canadian Rockies—mountains, people, wildlife, everyday activities, special events. Prints can be ordered at reasonable prices.”

Katie further suggests that at local events seek out the concession run by the IODE for “hot dogs made especially for them; the biggest, tastiest, juiciest dogs in the Bow Valley.” For 70 years, volunteer Banff IODE women have raised funds for charitable projects.

Of course, bars are popular features of tourist towns everywhere, including those of Canadian Rockies. Nightspot choices range from elegant venues to lively pubs that feature entertainment.

Wild Bill’s Saloon has line dancing lessons on Wednesday Western Nights,” notes Tulene Steiestol, media relations manager at Banff Lake Louise Tourism. Banff Centre communication officer Jill Sawyer recommends the lounge at the Juniper Hotel: “It’s modern and elegant, but what’s really special is the huge, roaring fireplace. I go for a glass of wine and appetizers to warm up after a day on the slopes.”

Many locals frequent favorite nightspots where everyone knows their name. One such spot is De’d Dog Bar & Grill in Jasper. “It’s the best place to be on a Friday night,” says Marmot Basin communications liaison Megan Gibson. For 30 years the bar has hosted locals for drinks after work; happy hour goes to 8 pm.

There’s no doubt that the Canadian Rockies are an inspiration to visitors and travellers alike. Charlie Locke, owner of the Lake Louise Ski Area, eloquently states: “ I’ve travelled the world, and there are few landscapes as awe-inspiring as the view from the top of one of the three summits at Lake Louise on a sun drenched morning. To stand, with the panoramic vista of jagged glaciated peaks, impossibly blue skies, and endless untouched forests spread out in an infinity before you is to enter, for a few moments, a new plane of existence.”

Insider’s Guide to Skiing Banff, Lake Louise, Jasper, Kananaksis, Golden & Panorama

Monday, December 7th, 2009
Sunshine Village credit Richard Hallman

Sunshine Village credit Richard Hallman

Seven ski areas, tons of snow and a November through May ski season. A world-class combination of ski terrain, high-speed lifts and on-hill amenities. No wonder Banff, Jasper and area draws skiers and snowboarders from around the world. Read on for insider ideas to help you make the most of your time on the slopes.

Jasper National Park

At 10,878 sq km (4200 sq mi), Jasper is Canada’s largest Mountain Park. Its ski area is big too. We like Marmot Basin for its lack of pretension and crowds (you seldom wait for a lift). The overall ski experience is amongst the best in Canada.

Connecting Lake Louise to Jasper, the 230 km (143 mi) Icefields Parkway (Hwy 93) is lined by peaks of the Continental Divide; 100 glaciers flank its western side and wildlife sightings are common. Drive with plenty of gas, and take food and warm clothes; for road conditions call 780-852-3311 (Jasper), 403-762-1450 (Banff).

Mountain Connector (1-888-786-3641) offers daily shuttles to Jasper from Banff, Calgary and Edmonton through April. They co-ordinate multi-day packages and Jasper sightseeing and activities.

Eagle's Nest at Marmot Basin

Eagle's Nest at Marmot Basin

Marmot Basin Ski Area
Located 20 minutes south of Jasper townsite (shuttle bus available), Marmot’s 1675 acres include huge alpine bowls framed by rugged pinnacles and ridges. Tree-lined runs and snowmaking are lower mountain features, while the Rogers Terrain Park is off the Paradise chair. Enjoy the 100 peak view everywhere.

Insider tips:
New quad: The Canadian Rockies Express is the region’s longest high-speed quad; ride 2.3 km (1.4 mi) up in 7.5 min.
Efficient rentals: It’s a streamlined process to get Head gear. Free overnight storage saves lugging skis to and from town.
Private guide: $438 buys an all-day guide/instructor for up to 3; get lift line priority and access to the best pistes.
Route picks: Open terrain lets you choose a run while riding the lift; there’s an easy way down off every chair.
Food favourites: Poutine (fries with cheese and gravy) is in high demand; cafeterias serve all-day breakfasts.
Sit down lunch: Eagle’s Nest  (mid mountain chalet), and Caribou Lounge (base) offer service weekends and holidays.
Best Tan: Sunshine saturates Kokanee Glacier Deck off Caribou Lounge; enjoy great views.
Expert run for intermediates: Try black Showoff and Highway 16 off Paradise chair if they’ve been recently groomed.
Big powder: Ski the Knob chair after a snowfall for above treeline lines. For hidden powder, hike skier’s left 10-minutes from the Eagle Ridge chair to Cornice run. Or, cross gates to ski open slopes and glades of Eagle East. Or, take Keefer’s Dream off the Paradise chair and through the easy-to-miss gate on the left; watch closely for the outrun on the right.

Banff National Park

Mt Norquay, Sunshine Village and Lake Louise are Banff’s Big 3, a 7750-acre alpine paradise so big you could ski for a month and never take the same run twice. Forget images you have of massive slopeside development at resorts like Whistler. In Canada’s first national park the protected, majestic wilderness remains intact.

Volcom Rail Jam at Lake Louise credit Mathew Timmins

Volcom Rail Jam at Lake Louise credit Mathew Timmins

Lake Louise Ski Area
Located north of Lake Louise Village and 35 minutes west of Banff townsite, The Lake racks up accolades such as Skiing magazine’s “most scenic resort.” With runs on four mountain faces, this is Canada’s largest single ski area. You can find sun-lit slopes all times of day.

Ride the 6-person Grizzly Express Gondola 3 km (2 mi) from the base to an upper ridge. From mid mountain, the Canadian Rockies’ only 6-person high-speed chairlift (The 6-Pack) goes to the Saddle. There are 139 named bowls, chutes and tree-lined runs. Beginner to advanced routes from every chair makes the entire resort accessible to all, and a new simplified trail map makes it easy to find your way.

Insider tips:
Killer blog: Read Lake Louise Lowdown on their website for Mountain Operations’ Chris Mosley photos and insights.
Valet parking: Pay $27.50 to park out front. But, we find the ample free parking with car-to-lift shuttles convenient.
Infant daycare: Veteran child-care specialist Jane Herman takes infants from 18 days old. Imagine Mom ripping up the slopes 18 days after giving birth!
Slope for kids: They love the animal cutouts at the Wilderness Adventure Park.
Fresh powder: Book First Tracks after a snowfall. $99 gets up to five people a guide and rides up the hill a half hour before lifts open to the public.
Air time: Last year The Lake re-introduced Terrain Park jumps; this year shredders find more air and rail jam features.
Backside: Frontside views of Lake Louise and Temple Mountain are famous. But we marvel at the rugged backside powder bowls with 2500 acres of open skiing and steeps.
Favourite chutes: Summit Platter accesses Whitehorn 2 backside chutes that trap blowing snow. Intermediates can tour the entire backside by traversing left to Boomerang.
Old school lift: We like the uncrowded Paradise triple that accesses powder bowls and chutes of Paradise, Eagle Ridge and The Wall.
Timing is everything: On busy days lines form for Larch and Ptarmigan quads. So, we ski here early for corduroy and during lunch when crowds thin.
“We serve Starbucks”: Slopeside Coffee Kiosk at the base.
$5.25 Canadian beer: We drink ours outdoors at base area Kokanee Kabin with fire pit, or newly expanded Powderkeg Lounge upstairs in Lodge of Ten Peaks with leather seats and organic crust pizzas.
Crowd alert: Temple Lodge at Larch gets busy on peak days. Otherwise, we love this rustic chalet with cafeteria, big BBQ deck and full service Sawyer’s Nook (try the lamb burger).
Downhill at Dusk: Spend Fri night at this buffet dinner and live music event (p 39).
Wilderness retreat: Access log-built 1930s Skoki Lodge by an 11 km (7 mi) backcountry ski over two mountain passes.

Sunshine Village
Located 8 km (5 mi) west of Banff via Hwy 1 is Canada’s highest ski resort with the nation’s longest ski season. Sunshine is blessed with awesome natural snow that shows 24/7 on its webcams. The resort straddles the Continental Divide; ski Boundary Bowl that begins in Alberta, passes into BC, and ends back in Alberta.

Sunshine is 81 years old, but its lifts are modern. From the base, ride the world’s fastest 8-passenger gondola to the region’s biggest concentration of high-speed quad chairs. Built on three mountains, much of the terrain is above treeline, which affords views to 80 km (50 mi). Look south to see Mt Assiniboine, “Canada’s Matterhorn.”

Insider tips:
Arrive early: On busy days parking lots fill leaving only roadside parking, so get here by 9:30 am or take a ski bus. Fortunately, shuttles run from your car to the gondola. $25 gets you VIP parking.
Cruisers’ heaven: Try the open bowl off the Continental Divide quad, and Goat’s Eye blue runs that start open and become tree-lined.
Best slopes of the day: For the best light and snow, ski Goat’s Eye in morning, and Lookout and Standish in the afternoon.
Amazing steeps: Delirium Dive, Wild West and Silver City freeride zones are open to those with partner, shovel and avalanche beacon (rentals at Banff Springs Sports). The Dive is our favourite run at Sunshine; most access the slope down the stairs, but we prefer the small cornice jump at far skier’s left. Sunshine offers guided tours down Delirium.
More amazing steeps: No avalanche beacon is needed for Goat’s Eye black/double black gullies and glades on skier’s left.
Trick treasure: A Park Bully grooms the Terrain Park.
Novice alternative: Most stick to gentle terrain off the slow Strawberry chair. Instead, ride high-speed lifts and take Green Run off Angel and Borderline and Creek Runs off Standish.
Old-time skiing: Ride the ancient Tee Pee Town double to access steep and rugged slopes that never see a groomer.
Snowhost: Hook up in front of Mad Trappers Saloon at noon for free mountain tours.
Coffee time: Starbucks at Java Express in the Day Lodge.
Beer time: Mad Trapper’s Saloon, in the 1928 log lodge.
Lunch time: Chimney Corner Restaurant & Sports Bar with table service and sports big screens at Sunshine Lodge.
Overnight: Sunshine Mountain Lodge is Banff’s only on-hill hotel (1-877-542-2633). Get a luxury suite with jetted tub and fireplace in the new wing. Go during Taste of Sunshine wine and food pairing events Dec 12, Jan 23, Feb 20, Mar 20 and Apr 17.

Mt Norquay
Banff’s original ski area (established 1926) is where locals go when they should be working and where their kids learn to ski and race. Canadian ski legend Ken Read along with other ski enthusiasts intent on preserving the family-friendly character of Norquay are the resort owners.

This is home mountain to World Cup gold medalist Thomas Grandi; he’s the one that skied by you like you were standing still. Giver Grandi run honours Banff’s favourite son.

Located 10 minutes north of downtown Banff (Norquay Rd over Hwy 1), this resort is a good choice for a mellow day, or few-hour escape. You’re treated to Cascade Mountain views, and summit cliffs give the area a rugged feel and shelter ski runs below. The snowmaking system blows tons of white stuff, and nightly grooming of all beginner and intermediate runs makes Norquay great for fall-line cruising.

Insider tips:
Fresh corduroy: Arrive at opening (9 am) for Giver Grandi, Banshee and Knight Flight cruisers. Even on weekends there is never a lift line.
Canada’s first double blacks: Tackle steep lines off the North American chair after the sun has softened the bumps.
Ski by the hour: Norquay offers unique hourly lift pass options; its day rates are the least pricey of all Banff resorts.
Floodlit slopes: Cascade quad runs and the Backyard Terrain Park are lit 5 to 10 pm, Wed (Jan 27 to Mar 24) and Fri (Jan 8 to Mar 26).
Pub pleasures: The post and beam daylodge has a cafeteria, but try full service dining at Lone Pine Pub; musicians play Sat and Sun noon to 4:30 pm.
Non-skiing fun: New is Norquay’s tubing park with four wide shoots (great for racing) and a dedicated lift.

Bordering Banff

Between Banff and Calgary is Nakiska, while west and south of Banff are the Kootenay Rockies’ Kicking Horse and Panorama Mountain Resorts.

Kicking Horse credit Mike McPhee

Kicking Horse credit Mike McPhee

Kicking Horse Mountain Resort
Called the “Champagne Capital of Canada” for its abundant dry snow, Kicking Horse is near Golden under two hours west of Banff and one hour from Lake Louise via Hwy 1 and Yoho National Park (at Spiral Tunnel viewpoint see a feat of railway engineering).

Kicking Horse Resort is named for an accident that befell Sir James Hector during his 1858 railroad route quest. Hector was presumed dead after being kicked by a horse but regained consciousness as he was being prepared for burial.
Highlights of the ski area are three rugged powder bowls, and the Golden Eagle Express gondola that shuttles skiers quickly from base to upper ridge in comfy 8-person cabins. It’s a long, exhilarating run down the highest vertical rise of all Canadian Rockies resorts (1260 m/4133 ft).

Insider tips:
Ditch your car: Take the daily Powder Express shuttle (403-760-5465) from your Banff or Lake Louise hotel, a bargain at $89 with lift pass.
Amazing glades: Drop into the trees from the CPR Ridge traverse off the gondola.
Best steeps: Take Whitewall into Feuz Bowl (once heliski domain); ride the Stairway to Heaven quad and go right.
Family zone: Wildlife-themed Horse Play Corral has contour grooming and play trails.
Tubing: Take the surface lift by the daylodge up and ride a tube down; no skill required. Sat night is “disco tubing.”
Kids Club: Enroll 18-month to 5-year-olds; you make turns.
“Hidden” village eateries: Try Sushi Kuma, Horse Thief Café and The Peaks Bar & Grill.
Ice rink: Rent skates on-site; join Wed “hockey night” fun.
Dawn Mountain Nordic Trails: 30 km (18.6 mi) of groomed classic and skate skiing. A cozy hut with is one km (.6 mi) from the trailhead.
Ski-in/out lodging: Book at 1-866-754-5425; go for $2195 a night Eagle Eye Suite with personal ski instructor, valet, meals and first tracks for two.
Canada’s highest restaurant: Eagle’s Eye at 2350 m/7700 ft has a fireplace, vaulted ceilings and stunning views; the food is good too! On busy days arrive early or late to avoid the noon rush. Reserve Fri or Sat dinner with free gondola ride.

Panorama Mountain Village
Located two hours from Banff via Hwy 93S, the drive to Panorama is though Kootenay National Park. Stop for a half hour walk at Marble Canyon.

At the resort, three quads (2 high-speed) ascend a 1220 m (4000 ft) vertical rise. This year Founders Ridge runs have been graded making this intermediate slope more fun to ski. Try the new Taynton Bowl expert area off the View of 1000 Peaks run.

Insider tips:
Banff ski bus: It’s $99 with lift pass; reserve 403-762-5900.
Steep and deep: Big Taynton Bowl is former heliski terrain; also try Extreme Dream.
Carving capers: Check posted grooming reports and ski early for corduroy on long cruisers.
Beginner haven: A fenced area is serviced by a 135 m (443 ft) long Magic Carpet.
Air show: Enjoy Terrain Park antics while riding Mile 1 quad.
Night ski: Toby Chair runs are lit some weekends/holidays.
Adventure Club: 8 to 14 year olds learn and lunch 10:30 am to 3 pm while parents play.
Hot pools: On-hill guests (1-800-663-2929) access the Panorama Springs complex.

Nakiska Ski Area
Host of the ‘88 Olympics, Nakiska is 15 min south of Hwy 1 via Hwy 40, near Kananaskis Village. Snowmaking, a long run down and slopes that are groomed nightly make this cruise and carve crowd favourite. Slow skiing and self-contained beginner zones are family-friendly, while upper slopes offer steeps and glades.

Insider tips:
New quad: Ride the Gold Chair Express to access upper mountain runs including the new Monster Glades.
Ski early: Nakiska is best in the morning when the grooming is fresh, crowds are light, and the slopes are sun-lit.
Best eats: Try the upstairs restaurant/bar with table service, fireplace and sports TV.

Kimchi: A Korean Culinary Icon

Monday, October 5th, 2009

Cabbage Kimchi

Cabbage Kimchi

Kimchi (to preserve) is a traditional Korean side dish of pickled and spiced vegetables, typically served as spicy cabbage (baechu). The Korean Aerospace Research Institute created a ‘space kimchi’ to accompany the first Korean astronaut. To satisfy your kim-chi fix, try Kimchi House. —RM

Ancient Artifact

Monday, October 5th, 2009
Tusk at Our Native Land

Tusk at Our Native Land

Woolly mammoths were denizens of Canada’s north until they became extinct at the end of the last Ice Age. This 3 m (10 ft) tusk with full cavity and tip, displayed at Our Native Land, is from a matriarch that lived to 80 years old. Complete mammoth tusks cost $4000 to well over $100,000 depending on size, shape and the amount of restoration. ­— JN

Feast for the Eyes

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009
Tenderloin at Evil Dave's Grill

Tenderloin at Evil Dave's Grill

Eating can fuel the body and ignite the senses. At Evil Dave’s Grill, diners’ expectations are heightened by artful presentations. Large, square, white plates provide a canvas upon which chefs create. “Each dish is uniquely displayed to draw attention to different aspects of the meal,” notes co-owner Mike Day. Patrons often photograph their dish prior to feasting! —RM

The Berry Best

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009
chocolate-raspberry-scones

White chocolate raspberry scones

Bears are known to have a weakness for berries, so it’s only fitting the most popular item at Bear’s Paw Bakery is their raspberry white chocolate scone. Bite into the flaky, homemade scone and savour the made-for-each-other combo of sweet chocolate chunks and tart raspberry. —RM

Rail Heritage

Monday, July 27th, 2009
VIA Rail

VIA Rail

The railway has been part of Jasper since 1911.

  • Admire the arts and crafts architecture of the restored 1926 Jasper Heritage Train Station
  • See 1923 CNR steam locomotive 6015, displayed by the station
  • Read railway interpretive panels along the Discovery Trail that parallels the tracks
  • Visit Jasper-Yellowhead Museum railway history displays
  • Take in Yellowhead Pass, Fraser River and Mt Robson during a half day train tour with SunDog Tours or Jasper Adventure Centre. —JN

Jasper’s Original Landmark Building

Monday, July 27th, 2009
Jasper Info Centre by Brian Catto

Jasper Info Centre by Brian Catto

The newly renovated 1914 Jasper Information Centre is the impossible-to-miss stone and timber national historic site in the centre of town (it now has a brown roof). Originally home and office to Jasper Park’s first superintendent, its arts and craft architecture influenced later buildings such as the 1926 railway station across the street. Drop by to consult with Park Canada and Jasper Tourism counsellors, and to peruse the Friends of Jasper store. Learn about history during free Jasper…A Walk in the Past tours that depart here. —RM

Timely Trails

Monday, July 27th, 2009
Angel Glacier and Pond by Andrew Hempstead

Angel Glacier and Pond by Andrew Hempstead

Eager to hike but limited by time? Paula Beauchamp, owner of Walks & Talks, suggests:

Remnants of glaciation can be seen on Path of the Glacier at Mt Edith Cavell. Drive the windy access road and walk the 1.6 km (1 mi) trail to iceberg filled Cavell Pond. Here you stand across from aptly named Angel Glacier. Detour 3.2 km (2 mi) to Cavell Meadows.

Park at 5th Bridge and walk Maligne Canyon upstream to 3rd Bridge to see the most interesting (and less travelled) part of the trail. Medicine Lake waters flow into the canyon through 30 km (19 mi) of subterranean channels. —RM

Clash of Horns

Monday, July 27th, 2009
Courtesy Travel Alberta

Courtesy Travel Alberta

The large, curled horns of the male Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep can weigh up to 14 kg (30 lbs), more than all its bones combined! Rams use their horns as a status symbol and weapon when fighting for dominance or mating rights. Combatants rear up and charge at up to 32 km (20 mi) an hour. The clash of horns echoes through the mountains as the encounter repeats (sometimes for hours) until one ram submits and walks away. Murray Morgan of Jasper Adventure Ctr suggests watching for bighorn sheep by the Athabasca River bridge where Maligne Rd meets Hwy 16. —RM

Cycling to Views

Monday, July 27th, 2009
Biking Pyramid Bench courtesy Jasper Tourism

Biking Pyramid Bench courtesy Jasper Tourism

Wendy Hall of Freewheel Cycle suggests Pyramid Trunk Trail for an easy, two-hour ride offering a steady elevation gain, and stunning townsite and Pyramid Mountain views. The 15 km (9 mi) wooded route starts behind the Jasper-Yellowhead Museum and ends at Pyramid Lake. Take corners slowly to avoid hikers! —RM

Walk on Snow

Monday, January 5th, 2009

Photo courtesy of Travel Alberta

Explore by snowshoe—sport stores offer rentals, and guides offer tours. Try:
Pyramid Lake Island: From Pyramid Lake Resort (closed winter) snowshoe the unplowed road to the lake. Follow the shoreline and cross the footbridge to the island. There’s interpretive panels, picnic tables and impressive Pyramid Mountain that glows red at sunset.

Maligne Lake: Snowshoe the left shoreline 1 km (.6 mi) to Mary Schäffer lookout, a sunny spot (great for a picnic) with benches, interpretive panels and the famous lake, mountain and glacier view. —Mark Horejsi

Icy Quiet

Monday, January 5th, 2009

Photo by Hugh Lecky

Since ice walks through Maligne Canyon are popular, Jasper Adventure Center guide Murray Morgan suggests that the most serene time to admire the towering walls of limestone and ice is at night when few visit. “The moonlit canyon is surreal, and sounds carry better in the night—if you listen closely you can hear water dripping behind the ice,” says Murray. Tour participants each have headlamps and guides use 2-million candlepower lanterns. But at the Cathedral everyone turns off their light and gazes upwards at millions of stars. Highlight of the trip, day or night, is the 20 m (65 ft) high Queen of Maligne comprised of many layers of giant icicles. — Mark Horejsi

This Route was Made for Walking

Monday, January 5th, 2009

Photo courtesy of Parks Canada

Walk circles around Jasper on the 8 km (5 mi) Discovery Trail that rings the town. Shod your tootsies in appropriate footwear, as the trail isn’t cleared of snow (except the short paved portion). Along its south side, the gentle path parallels Connaught Dr. The north part presents moderate ups and downs following contours of Pyramid Bench, and offers nice views of town and three valleys. Interpretive plaques and directional maps guide and give insights on the area. — Lisa Stephens

View From the Top

Monday, January 5th, 2009

Photo by Marmot Basin

With a Marmot Basin lift pass comes access to some of the Canadian Rockies finest views. These skiers and boarders on Paradise are eyeing Chalet Slope runs and glades—a close look reveals towers of the Eagle Ridge quad chairlift. Cloud-kissed Athabasca River Valley peaks comprise the scenic backdrop with Mount Hardisty rising above all. — Jack Newton

Ice Walk: Cline Gallery, East of the Icefields Parkway

Monday, January 5th, 2009

Cline Gallery. Photo by Martha's Heli-hikes

Walk the frozen Cline River into an icefall-lined limestone canyon that rises to 50 m (150 ft) and narrows to 1.2 m (4 ft). World-class climbers can often be seen tackling routes such as Pure Energy and Nightmare on Elm Street. Those on the guided tour only need trek the 4 km (4.5 mi) one-way—they’re treated to a helicopter ride return. The signed parking lot is on Hwy 11, 47 km (29 mi) east of Hwy 93, about a 1.5-hour drive from Lake Louise. —Jack Wennot

My First Facial

Monday, January 5th, 2009

I arrived at the spa giddy with anticipation. After completing a form on my face from products to pores, I entered a sweet smelling room with linen clad massage table. “Strip to your underwear and get under the heated blanket,” the esthetician instructed. Aaaaaaah, let the pampering begin!

The esthetician examined my face to locate ‘problem areas.’ Then she got to work. For over an hour, my face was nourished with a customized selection of hydrating, exfoliating, and pore minimizing creams. I received relaxing foot and arm massages while waiting for masks to set. The final touch was a gentle brush of organic sun block. I was beaming—my skin looked, and I felt, radiant. “Treat yourself to a facial every season,” the esthetician suggested. A good idea, I thought, as facials clear the complexion and help prevent premature aging.
— Nora O’Malley

Game

Friday, December 19th, 2008

Villa Caruso chef Jean-Louis Espernel is proud of his wild game dishes. He offers bison, elk and boar from Alberta, pheasants from Quebec, and venison from Ontario. Since most game is lean, chef normally prepares dishes medium rare to enhance tenderness and flavour. — Mark Horejsi

Twist on Tradition

Friday, December 19th, 2008

The famous rice dish of Spain originated as peasant fare cooked over an open fire. Paella, the Valencian word for a steel pan with round handles, was originally made with whatever ingredients were on hand, typically tomatoes, onions and snails. Rabbit, duck or chicken were added for special occasions. Times change—the paella at Jasper’s La Fiesta is chock full of meat and seafood (but no snails). “It’s the high grade saffron that gives the distinctive colour, flavour and aroma,” notes owner Andrew Nicholson. — Jack Newton

Restaurant Makeover

Friday, December 19th, 2008

Established 1924, newly renovated Papa George’s retains its classic stone fireplace and remains true to its Alberta regional cuisine tradition. Drop by to admire the wine bar with 1300 bottle cellar and granite counters; stay to sample items from the tapas menu. There’s a European-style coffee café up front. The Jasper Inn Restaurant has also benefited from a recent makeover including new colours, granite counters and blond wood furnishings. — Jack Wennot