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Banff, Canmore & Area

My Favourite Rockies: Locals Share Hidden Haunts

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010

The Canadian Rockies offer a vast array of attractions; peruse this website for hundreds of outdoor activity, indoor entertainment, shopping and dining ideas. From museums to historical sights, adventure tours to theatre performances, there truly is something for everyone.

Many of our region’s scenic places and best activities are well known, but some are a secret to all but area residents. So Where asked locals to share their eclectic ideas for fun.

Elk Bull image by John Marriott

Elk Bull image by John Marriott

Rockies by Foot
Visitors hike in summer, but locals hike year-round. Join residents for a stroll along riverside paths in the towns of Canmore, Banff, Lake Louise and Jasper. These trails are noted in Banff Area Sightseeing and Jasper Area Sightseeing.

Former Olympian and current Alberta Alpine president Ken Read notes: “A great winter hike is Stoney Squaw Mountain. It’s a 4 km (2.5 mi) loop from the Mt Norquay parking lot that’s popular throughout the winter for its great views of Cascade Mountain and the town of Banff.” After a morning of skiing, Ken sometimes walks the route as a refreshing alternative to his usual fitness routine.

“One of my favourite short trails is the Marsh Loop by Banff’s Cave and Basin,” says Where publisher Jack Newton. “Warm hot spring waters allow green plants to thrive even in winter, and rising steam creates artistic frost effects. Birds stay all winter on the tepid marsh water, and you can look down from the boardwalk to see fish.”

Jasper National Park media relations officer Wendy Niven recommends a visit to Pyramid Bench at dusk. From town, she runs either the plowed Pyramid Lake Rd or the scenic Pyramid Trunk Trail that parallels the road. It’s a steady, not difficult climb to pastoral Cottonwood Slough and Pyramid Mountain that glows red in the sunset. “Every time I go the sky, mountains and meadows look different. I see colours that include pink, purple, black and yellow,” enthuses Wendy. The route is 15 km (9 mi), but there are many rewarding views and you can turn back anytime.

Ski Slopes & Trails
In winter, most everyone comes to our area to downhill ski. After all, Canada’s pristine and rugged mountain parks have earned UNESCO World Heritage Site designation and boast some of the best skiing and snowboarding terrain on the planet (noted in Where’s Insider Guide).

Locals are enthusiast skiers too, and it’s likely you’ll meet a few, especially if you can handle the black runs most residents crave. “One of the best parts of living in Banff is that I’m only 15 minutes from getting in an hour or two of skiing,” says Banff Mayor John Stutz. “Afterward, I can carry on with the rest of my day in the office or the community.”

For an increasing number of fitness-minded locals, cross-country skiing is the winter sport of choice. You might find George Andrew, owner of the Astoria Hotel in Jasper, boosting his heart rate on Edith Cavell Rd; this steadily rising route is closed to traffic in winter. Shops such as Trail Sports in Canmore and Wild Mountain in Jasper, owned by Nordic ski enthusiasts John Gallagher and Dave Macdowell/Cam Wilson respectively, are great places to peruse the latest gear and get trail advice. Where lists some favourite cross-country ski trails in the Banff Area and the Jasper Area.

Impact Brochure Systems manager Warren Mackie often goes to the Canmore Nordic Centre for a skate ski before dinner. “One of my favorite routes is west from the stadium along curvy, undulating Bow Trail; I return on the flatter Banff Trail. This 13 km (8 mi) loop takes an hour if I get my wax right. But you may want to take more time to enjoy the quiet pine forest beauty, which seem a hundred miles from civilization.”

Spectacular Sights
All who drive the Canadian Rockies are awestruck by the mountain scenery. Where sightseeing by road itineraries are noted in Banff Area Sightseeing and Jasper Area Sightseeing sections; plus guided tours near Banff and Jasper. Even locals can’t help being continually impressed.

During winter, animals seek the shelter and roadside foraging opportunities of valleys. Your best chance of seeing elk, deer, coyotes, bighorn sheep and other wildlife are along Highways #40 through Kananaskis, #93 north of Radium Hot Springs, #16/Maligne Lake Rd southeast of Jasper, and the Icefields Parkway south of Jasper. Please watch your speed when driving and keep a healthy distance (three bus lengths) when photographing large animals.

Signature sights such as Lake Louise attract many visitors. Banff’s Johnston Canyon and Jasper’s Maligne Canyon are also popular, but for an ice canyon experience with a greater possibility for solitude, try Canmore’s Grotto Canyon. Where writes about Banff and Jasper canyon ice walks.

Michael Beamer of Beamer’s Coffee Bar has a special sightseeing suggestion: “I love going to Hidden Falls. I proposed to my wife there.” Walk the 2.5 km (1.5 mi) limestone-lined Heart Creek Trail that begins off Hwy 1 east of Canmore opposite Lac des Arcs. At trail’s end, the lovely little waterfall hides around the corner.

Skating the maintained ice on lakes and ponds in Kananaskis Village, Canmore, Banff Lake Louise and Jasper is an iconic winter treat; skate rentals are available in these towns. Less reliable but more enticing is gliding over the entire length of Banff’s Vermilion Lakes or Lac Beauvert at The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge during times when there is no snow (only go if locals are on the ice). Murray Morgan of Jasper Adventure Centre suggests looking down: “Sometimes you can see fish swimming beneath the smooth surface.”

Discover Banff Tours manager Daymon Miller loves the warmth and atmosphere created by a campfire during winter. He suggests making a fire at Lake Minnewanka picnic site at night: “watch the stars and drink mulled wine.” Murray Morgan sometimes stokes up the fire rings at 6th Bridge where the Maligne and Athabasca Rivers meet. Bring firewood, and smokies and marshmallows to roast.

Great Indoors
Our Mountain Parks may be best known for their great outdoors, but indoor life thrives too. Dining, shopping and pub-hopping are embraced by both visitors and locals; hidden gems are revealed in other sections of this website.

Don’t miss the fine small museums our communities have to offer, and entertainment that includes sports events, festivals and performing arts. Travellers too often overlook the world-class concerts, theatre and dance showcased at The Banff Centre.

Katie Daniel, communications specialist at Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies offers this suggestion: “If you love old photographs and treasure historic memories, visit the archives and library at our museum, open 1 to 5 pm Mon to Fri. You’ll find thousands of images of Canadian Rockies—mountains, people, wildlife, everyday activities, special events. Prints can be ordered at reasonable prices.”

Katie further suggests that at local events seek out the concession run by the IODE for “hot dogs made especially for them; the biggest, tastiest, juiciest dogs in the Bow Valley.” For 70 years, volunteer Banff IODE women have raised funds for charitable projects.

Of course, bars are popular features of tourist towns everywhere, including those of Canadian Rockies. Nightspot choices range from elegant venues to lively pubs that feature entertainment.

Wild Bill’s Saloon has line dancing lessons on Wednesday Western Nights,” notes Tulene Steiestol, media relations manager at Banff Lake Louise Tourism. Banff Centre communication officer Jill Sawyer recommends the lounge at the Juniper Hotel: “It’s modern and elegant, but what’s really special is the huge, roaring fireplace. I go for a glass of wine and appetizers to warm up after a day on the slopes.”

Many locals frequent favorite nightspots where everyone knows their name. One such spot is De’d Dog Bar & Grill in Jasper. “It’s the best place to be on a Friday night,” says Marmot Basin communications liaison Megan Gibson. For 30 years the bar has hosted locals for drinks after work; happy hour goes to 8 pm.

There’s no doubt that the Canadian Rockies are an inspiration to visitors and travellers alike. Charlie Locke, owner of the Lake Louise Ski Area, eloquently states: “ I’ve travelled the world, and there are few landscapes as awe-inspiring as the view from the top of one of the three summits at Lake Louise on a sun drenched morning. To stand, with the panoramic vista of jagged glaciated peaks, impossibly blue skies, and endless untouched forests spread out in an infinity before you is to enter, for a few moments, a new plane of existence.”

Canmore Real Estate

Thursday, December 17th, 2009

Canmore: A Place to Call Home…
Real estate prices are on the rebound. Whether you desire a permanent residence or a vacation getaway, this may be the right time to buy.

By Ally McConnell

Stone Creek Resorts Club

Stone Creek Resorts Club

Nestled in the Bow River Valley and flanked by Rocky Mountains, Canmore is an attractive place to own a home. While some buy properties as an investment, most people acquiring real estate are making a lifestyle choice.

Mountain Lifestyle
Visitors and residents love Canmore’s mountain environment and activities like skiing, golfing, hiking and fishing. They appreciate the town’s modern infrastructure, ‘casually upscale’ town centre, and amenities such as riverside paths, Canmore Nordic Centre (’88 Olympic Games venue) and Canmore Recreation Centre.

The town is also attractive because it’s only an hour from Calgary’s big city facilities and airport. Being situated by Banff National Park adds to Canmore’s cache, and the fact that Banff home owners must comply with restrictive ‘need to reside’ regulations has boosted demand for Canmore real estate. There are 12,000 permanent and 5,500 non-permanent home owners.

Canmore home buyers are a diverse group. Many are locals with changing housing needs, while others are newcomers from other parts of Canada. Those of international origins are also buying homes. Unlike in many countries, foreign nationals in Canada can qualify for mortgages. They face no purchasing restrictions due to their non-resident status.

Homes Market
Home prices have generally increased year-by-year since Canmore’s coal mine closed 30 years ago and tourism became the primary industry. The overall quality of residences has also improved with the growth of high-end neighbourhoods such as Three Sisters Mountain Village (east), Silvertip Resort (north) and Spring Creek Mountain Village (downtown). In older quarters, many small bungalows have been replaced.

Of course, Canmore has not been immune from the recent global economic recession. Prices for homes fell, and new development projects stalled. But there’s recent evidence that the real estate market in Canmore has stabilized both in terms of price and the ratio of buyers to sellers.

“We started to see activity pick up in August 2009,” says Drew Betts of Royal LePage. “Since then there have been multiple offers on properties. For winter and spring 2010, signs are pointing to the continued stabilization of the market.” Betts notes that the number of sales in the third quarter of 2009 were more than double the sales of the second quarter of 2008.

Townhouses, duplexes and apartment-style condos make up the bulk of Canmore’s homes for sale inventory, with 357 currently on the market (a jump from 250 in the summer). Prices range from the low $300,000s to $1.5 million.

The market is robust for detached single-family homes, with 81 available, down from a peak of 121. Sales are strongest for homes under $850,000. Many who have longed to own real estate in Canmore, but were sidelined by high prices, are now taking the plunge.

“There has been an overall increase in buyer confidence. People are more sure of what they want, but are still looking to get the best value,” says Betts.

Stone Creek Resorts Club

Stone Creek Resorts Club

Resorts Club
The new Stone Creek Resorts Club in the Residences at Sil-vertip Resort offers a luxury second-home lifestyle for a fraction the cost and none of the hassle of full ownership. Membership options range from $120,000 for a 10-day plan to $425,000 for 60 days—80% of this fee is returned to members who leave the club.

Resorts Club members stay in 2 or 3 bedroom luxury condominiums that are valued from $1.5 to $2 million. At their service is a dedicated concierge who helps with vacation planning and other details. Marketing Manager Tim Zado suggests prospective members “can think of it as joining a country club with an initiation fee and annual dues.”

Stone Creek Resorts Club

Stone Creek Resorts Club

Hotel Condos
Hotel condos, priced from about $140,000, are a real estate option for those on a more limited budget. These units cannot be lived in full-time and are commonly purchased as an investment with the benefit of occasional use.


Canmore’s enduring appeal as a desirable community is the primary reason its real estate market is recovering faster than most. So, if you aspire to owning a dream home in the mountains, the time may be right.


Horse Drawn Sleigh Rides

Monday, December 7th, 2009
Sleigh Ride with Holiday on Horseback

Sleigh Ride with Holiday on Horseback

Dash through the snow on a one-horse, two-seat sleigh and jingle all the way. A Holiday on Horseback cutter ride is pure romance, with mountain views, a meadow that’s home to elk and hot spring marsh with birds all winter. Snuggle under buffalo hides, and indulge in liqueurs and Callebaut chocolates. Alternatively, Brewster Lake Louise Sleigh Rides feature picturesque lake and glacier views, plus the lights of Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise if you go after dark. Both also offer traditional sleigh rides for larger groups. —JN

Insider’s Guide to Skiing Banff, Lake Louise, Jasper, Kananaksis, Golden & Panorama

Monday, December 7th, 2009
Sunshine Village credit Richard Hallman

Sunshine Village credit Richard Hallman

Seven ski areas, tons of snow and a November through May ski season. A world-class combination of ski terrain, high-speed lifts and on-hill amenities. No wonder Banff, Jasper and area draws skiers and snowboarders from around the world. Read on for insider ideas to help you make the most of your time on the slopes.

Jasper National Park

At 10,878 sq km (4200 sq mi), Jasper is Canada’s largest Mountain Park. Its ski area is big too. We like Marmot Basin for its lack of pretension and crowds (you seldom wait for a lift). The overall ski experience is amongst the best in Canada.

Connecting Lake Louise to Jasper, the 230 km (143 mi) Icefields Parkway (Hwy 93) is lined by peaks of the Continental Divide; 100 glaciers flank its western side and wildlife sightings are common. Drive with plenty of gas, and take food and warm clothes; for road conditions call 780-852-3311 (Jasper), 403-762-1450 (Banff).

Mountain Connector (1-888-786-3641) offers daily shuttles to Jasper from Banff, Calgary and Edmonton through April. They co-ordinate multi-day packages and Jasper sightseeing and activities.

Eagle's Nest at Marmot Basin

Eagle's Nest at Marmot Basin

Marmot Basin Ski Area
Located 20 minutes south of Jasper townsite (shuttle bus available), Marmot’s 1675 acres include huge alpine bowls framed by rugged pinnacles and ridges. Tree-lined runs and snowmaking are lower mountain features, while the Rogers Terrain Park is off the Paradise chair. Enjoy the 100 peak view everywhere.

Insider tips:
New quad: The Canadian Rockies Express is the region’s longest high-speed quad; ride 2.3 km (1.4 mi) up in 7.5 min.
Efficient rentals: It’s a streamlined process to get Head gear. Free overnight storage saves lugging skis to and from town.
Private guide: $438 buys an all-day guide/instructor for up to 3; get lift line priority and access to the best pistes.
Route picks: Open terrain lets you choose a run while riding the lift; there’s an easy way down off every chair.
Food favourites: Poutine (fries with cheese and gravy) is in high demand; cafeterias serve all-day breakfasts.
Sit down lunch: Eagle’s Nest  (mid mountain chalet), and Caribou Lounge (base) offer service weekends and holidays.
Best Tan: Sunshine saturates Kokanee Glacier Deck off Caribou Lounge; enjoy great views.
Expert run for intermediates: Try black Showoff and Highway 16 off Paradise chair if they’ve been recently groomed.
Big powder: Ski the Knob chair after a snowfall for above treeline lines. For hidden powder, hike skier’s left 10-minutes from the Eagle Ridge chair to Cornice run. Or, cross gates to ski open slopes and glades of Eagle East. Or, take Keefer’s Dream off the Paradise chair and through the easy-to-miss gate on the left; watch closely for the outrun on the right.

Banff National Park

Mt Norquay, Sunshine Village and Lake Louise are Banff’s Big 3, a 7750-acre alpine paradise so big you could ski for a month and never take the same run twice. Forget images you have of massive slopeside development at resorts like Whistler. In Canada’s first national park the protected, majestic wilderness remains intact.

Volcom Rail Jam at Lake Louise credit Mathew Timmins

Volcom Rail Jam at Lake Louise credit Mathew Timmins

Lake Louise Ski Area
Located north of Lake Louise Village and 35 minutes west of Banff townsite, The Lake racks up accolades such as Skiing magazine’s “most scenic resort.” With runs on four mountain faces, this is Canada’s largest single ski area. You can find sun-lit slopes all times of day.

Ride the 6-person Grizzly Express Gondola 3 km (2 mi) from the base to an upper ridge. From mid mountain, the Canadian Rockies’ only 6-person high-speed chairlift (The 6-Pack) goes to the Saddle. There are 139 named bowls, chutes and tree-lined runs. Beginner to advanced routes from every chair makes the entire resort accessible to all, and a new simplified trail map makes it easy to find your way.

Insider tips:
Killer blog: Read Lake Louise Lowdown on their website for Mountain Operations’ Chris Mosley photos and insights.
Valet parking: Pay $27.50 to park out front. But, we find the ample free parking with car-to-lift shuttles convenient.
Infant daycare: Veteran child-care specialist Jane Herman takes infants from 18 days old. Imagine Mom ripping up the slopes 18 days after giving birth!
Slope for kids: They love the animal cutouts at the Wilderness Adventure Park.
Fresh powder: Book First Tracks after a snowfall. $99 gets up to five people a guide and rides up the hill a half hour before lifts open to the public.
Air time: Last year The Lake re-introduced Terrain Park jumps; this year shredders find more air and rail jam features.
Backside: Frontside views of Lake Louise and Temple Mountain are famous. But we marvel at the rugged backside powder bowls with 2500 acres of open skiing and steeps.
Favourite chutes: Summit Platter accesses Whitehorn 2 backside chutes that trap blowing snow. Intermediates can tour the entire backside by traversing left to Boomerang.
Old school lift: We like the uncrowded Paradise triple that accesses powder bowls and chutes of Paradise, Eagle Ridge and The Wall.
Timing is everything: On busy days lines form for Larch and Ptarmigan quads. So, we ski here early for corduroy and during lunch when crowds thin.
“We serve Starbucks”: Slopeside Coffee Kiosk at the base.
$5.25 Canadian beer: We drink ours outdoors at base area Kokanee Kabin with fire pit, or newly expanded Powderkeg Lounge upstairs in Lodge of Ten Peaks with leather seats and organic crust pizzas.
Crowd alert: Temple Lodge at Larch gets busy on peak days. Otherwise, we love this rustic chalet with cafeteria, big BBQ deck and full service Sawyer’s Nook (try the lamb burger).
Downhill at Dusk: Spend Fri night at this buffet dinner and live music event (p 39).
Wilderness retreat: Access log-built 1930s Skoki Lodge by an 11 km (7 mi) backcountry ski over two mountain passes.

Sunshine Village
Located 8 km (5 mi) west of Banff via Hwy 1 is Canada’s highest ski resort with the nation’s longest ski season. Sunshine is blessed with awesome natural snow that shows 24/7 on its webcams. The resort straddles the Continental Divide; ski Boundary Bowl that begins in Alberta, passes into BC, and ends back in Alberta.

Sunshine is 81 years old, but its lifts are modern. From the base, ride the world’s fastest 8-passenger gondola to the region’s biggest concentration of high-speed quad chairs. Built on three mountains, much of the terrain is above treeline, which affords views to 80 km (50 mi). Look south to see Mt Assiniboine, “Canada’s Matterhorn.”

Insider tips:
Arrive early: On busy days parking lots fill leaving only roadside parking, so get here by 9:30 am or take a ski bus. Fortunately, shuttles run from your car to the gondola. $25 gets you VIP parking.
Cruisers’ heaven: Try the open bowl off the Continental Divide quad, and Goat’s Eye blue runs that start open and become tree-lined.
Best slopes of the day: For the best light and snow, ski Goat’s Eye in morning, and Lookout and Standish in the afternoon.
Amazing steeps: Delirium Dive, Wild West and Silver City freeride zones are open to those with partner, shovel and avalanche beacon (rentals at Banff Springs Sports). The Dive is our favourite run at Sunshine; most access the slope down the stairs, but we prefer the small cornice jump at far skier’s left. Sunshine offers guided tours down Delirium.
More amazing steeps: No avalanche beacon is needed for Goat’s Eye black/double black gullies and glades on skier’s left.
Trick treasure: A Park Bully grooms the Terrain Park.
Novice alternative: Most stick to gentle terrain off the slow Strawberry chair. Instead, ride high-speed lifts and take Green Run off Angel and Borderline and Creek Runs off Standish.
Old-time skiing: Ride the ancient Tee Pee Town double to access steep and rugged slopes that never see a groomer.
Snowhost: Hook up in front of Mad Trappers Saloon at noon for free mountain tours.
Coffee time: Starbucks at Java Express in the Day Lodge.
Beer time: Mad Trapper’s Saloon, in the 1928 log lodge.
Lunch time: Chimney Corner Restaurant & Sports Bar with table service and sports big screens at Sunshine Lodge.
Overnight: Sunshine Mountain Lodge is Banff’s only on-hill hotel (1-877-542-2633). Get a luxury suite with jetted tub and fireplace in the new wing. Go during Taste of Sunshine wine and food pairing events Dec 12, Jan 23, Feb 20, Mar 20 and Apr 17.

Mt Norquay
Banff’s original ski area (established 1926) is where locals go when they should be working and where their kids learn to ski and race. Canadian ski legend Ken Read along with other ski enthusiasts intent on preserving the family-friendly character of Norquay are the resort owners.

This is home mountain to World Cup gold medalist Thomas Grandi; he’s the one that skied by you like you were standing still. Giver Grandi run honours Banff’s favourite son.

Located 10 minutes north of downtown Banff (Norquay Rd over Hwy 1), this resort is a good choice for a mellow day, or few-hour escape. You’re treated to Cascade Mountain views, and summit cliffs give the area a rugged feel and shelter ski runs below. The snowmaking system blows tons of white stuff, and nightly grooming of all beginner and intermediate runs makes Norquay great for fall-line cruising.

Insider tips:
Fresh corduroy: Arrive at opening (9 am) for Giver Grandi, Banshee and Knight Flight cruisers. Even on weekends there is never a lift line.
Canada’s first double blacks: Tackle steep lines off the North American chair after the sun has softened the bumps.
Ski by the hour: Norquay offers unique hourly lift pass options; its day rates are the least pricey of all Banff resorts.
Floodlit slopes: Cascade quad runs and the Backyard Terrain Park are lit 5 to 10 pm, Wed (Jan 27 to Mar 24) and Fri (Jan 8 to Mar 26).
Pub pleasures: The post and beam daylodge has a cafeteria, but try full service dining at Lone Pine Pub; musicians play Sat and Sun noon to 4:30 pm.
Non-skiing fun: New is Norquay’s tubing park with four wide shoots (great for racing) and a dedicated lift.

Bordering Banff

Between Banff and Calgary is Nakiska, while west and south of Banff are the Kootenay Rockies’ Kicking Horse and Panorama Mountain Resorts.

Kicking Horse credit Mike McPhee

Kicking Horse credit Mike McPhee

Kicking Horse Mountain Resort
Called the “Champagne Capital of Canada” for its abundant dry snow, Kicking Horse is near Golden under two hours west of Banff and one hour from Lake Louise via Hwy 1 and Yoho National Park (at Spiral Tunnel viewpoint see a feat of railway engineering).

Kicking Horse Resort is named for an accident that befell Sir James Hector during his 1858 railroad route quest. Hector was presumed dead after being kicked by a horse but regained consciousness as he was being prepared for burial.
Highlights of the ski area are three rugged powder bowls, and the Golden Eagle Express gondola that shuttles skiers quickly from base to upper ridge in comfy 8-person cabins. It’s a long, exhilarating run down the highest vertical rise of all Canadian Rockies resorts (1260 m/4133 ft).

Insider tips:
Ditch your car: Take the daily Powder Express shuttle (403-760-5465) from your Banff or Lake Louise hotel, a bargain at $89 with lift pass.
Amazing glades: Drop into the trees from the CPR Ridge traverse off the gondola.
Best steeps: Take Whitewall into Feuz Bowl (once heliski domain); ride the Stairway to Heaven quad and go right.
Family zone: Wildlife-themed Horse Play Corral has contour grooming and play trails.
Tubing: Take the surface lift by the daylodge up and ride a tube down; no skill required. Sat night is “disco tubing.”
Kids Club: Enroll 18-month to 5-year-olds; you make turns.
“Hidden” village eateries: Try Sushi Kuma, Horse Thief Café and The Peaks Bar & Grill.
Ice rink: Rent skates on-site; join Wed “hockey night” fun.
Dawn Mountain Nordic Trails: 30 km (18.6 mi) of groomed classic and skate skiing. A cozy hut with is one km (.6 mi) from the trailhead.
Ski-in/out lodging: Book at 1-866-754-5425; go for $2195 a night Eagle Eye Suite with personal ski instructor, valet, meals and first tracks for two.
Canada’s highest restaurant: Eagle’s Eye at 2350 m/7700 ft has a fireplace, vaulted ceilings and stunning views; the food is good too! On busy days arrive early or late to avoid the noon rush. Reserve Fri or Sat dinner with free gondola ride.

Panorama Mountain Village
Located two hours from Banff via Hwy 93S, the drive to Panorama is though Kootenay National Park. Stop for a half hour walk at Marble Canyon.

At the resort, three quads (2 high-speed) ascend a 1220 m (4000 ft) vertical rise. This year Founders Ridge runs have been graded making this intermediate slope more fun to ski. Try the new Taynton Bowl expert area off the View of 1000 Peaks run.

Insider tips:
Banff ski bus: It’s $99 with lift pass; reserve 403-762-5900.
Steep and deep: Big Taynton Bowl is former heliski terrain; also try Extreme Dream.
Carving capers: Check posted grooming reports and ski early for corduroy on long cruisers.
Beginner haven: A fenced area is serviced by a 135 m (443 ft) long Magic Carpet.
Air show: Enjoy Terrain Park antics while riding Mile 1 quad.
Night ski: Toby Chair runs are lit some weekends/holidays.
Adventure Club: 8 to 14 year olds learn and lunch 10:30 am to 3 pm while parents play.
Hot pools: On-hill guests (1-800-663-2929) access the Panorama Springs complex.

Nakiska Ski Area
Host of the ‘88 Olympics, Nakiska is 15 min south of Hwy 1 via Hwy 40, near Kananaskis Village. Snowmaking, a long run down and slopes that are groomed nightly make this cruise and carve crowd favourite. Slow skiing and self-contained beginner zones are family-friendly, while upper slopes offer steeps and glades.

Insider tips:
New quad: Ride the Gold Chair Express to access upper mountain runs including the new Monster Glades.
Ski early: Nakiska is best in the morning when the grooming is fresh, crowds are light, and the slopes are sun-lit.
Best eats: Try the upstairs restaurant/bar with table service, fireplace and sports TV.

Winterstart Festival Nov 28-Dec 6

Friday, November 27th, 2009
Winterstart Festival (credit: Banff Lake Louise Tourism Bureau)

Winterstart Festival (credit: Banff Lake Louise Tourism Bureau)

Celebrate winter during the Winterstart Festival in Banff and Lake Louise. The event kicks off with the World Cup Alpine Ski Racing (men’s Nov 28-29; women’s Dec 4-6) at Lake Louise Mountain Resort—cheer on world-class athletes as they vie for the final positions on the Olympic team. There’s also free on-hill entertainment by the Mocking Shadows Rhythm and Blues Revue (Nov 28). If you can’t make it to the hill, you can watch live racing action via Jumbotron’s big screen in Banff Avenue Square (200 Banff Ave). The festival continues in Banff with the Castle Carolers roaming downtown streets (Nov 28/Dec 5), Warren Miller’s Dynasty film screening (Nov 30), retail window decorating contest (Dec 4), Christmas in the Rockies with face painting, cookie decorating and free wagon rides (Dec 5), Santa Claus Parade of Lights (Dec 5), performances of Parks Canada’s Mountain WIT Theatre Troupe’s “Imaginanation”—a tale of hope, inspiration and natural wonders explored through puppetry, masks and music (Dec 5), Stuart McLean and a Vinyl Café Christmas (Dec 5), Mountaintop Christmas Sing-Along (Dec 6), and Bow Valley Chorus’ Christmas musical concert (Dec 6). With all of these family fun events, come and celebrate the glorious winter season in Banff and Lake Louise.

Soundly Crafted

Tuesday, October 20th, 2009
Morgan Guitar

Morgan Guitar

An apprentice of guitar maker Jean Larrivee for 25 years, Vancouver craftsman Dave Iannone now hand-builds his Morgan Guitars using Mexican cocobolo hardwood that produces “a great tone and unbelievable look.” Visit Harvest Moon Acoustics.—RM

Origins of Ammolite

Tuesday, October 20th, 2009

Colourful ammolite gemstones are derived from fossilized ammonites, shelled creatures that inhabited an inland sea that covered much of southern Alberta 75 million years ago. Learn about the origins of ammonite, manufacturing techniques and gem grading by taking the Ammonite Gem Factory tour ($5) that runs daily at 10 am, 11 am and noon. —TK

Ammolite jewellery

Ammolite jewellery

Hidden View

Tuesday, October 20th, 2009
diner-duo-3Ravens

Dining at Three Ravens

It’s worth the short drive or walk from downtown to dine at the Three Ravens for the elevated Bow Valley view through enormous windows. The sparkling lights of Banff set against Rundle Mountain, Sulphur Mountain and the Sundance Range is a feast for the eyes, especially when the peaks glow red and yellow at sunset. —RM

Canadian Roots

Tuesday, October 20th, 2009

Roots is an internationally recognized brand with an iconic Canadian history. Their logo incorporates the beaver, the furry creature that appears on our 5-centroots-tee09 coin and Parks Canada emblems. The first Roots store was established in 1973 by Michael Budman and Don Green who were inspired by Ontario’s Algonquin Park. Their company transformed a love for the Canadian wilderness into the distinctive leather goods and athletic wear you see today.—RM

WordFest Oct 16-18

Tuesday, October 13th, 2009
Douglas Coupland presents his new novel "Generation A"

Douglas Coupland presents his new novel "Generation A"

This weekend Banff gets lit—literary that is—during WordFest 2009. The Banff Calgary International Writers Festival heads to The Banff Centre (tickets 403-762-6301) and is packed with discussions, workshops, readings and multi-media presentations. Highlights include Wicked Words with cutting-edge performances by Kris Demeanor, Alexis O’Hara and Roland Pemberton that will be sure to get your toes tapping (Oct 16, 8 pm); renowned author Douglas Coupland presents his latest work Generation A and is joined by debut novelists JR Carpenter and Emily St. John Mandel (Oct 17, 7 pm); Poetry Cabaret where a variety of poet’s words mingle with music (Oct 17, 9:30 pm); and Curtain Call that features Can-lit and international author readings including Bonnie Burnard, Don Gillmor, Lisa Moore, Shani Mootoo and Eric-Emmanuel Schmitt (Oct 18, 3 pm).

100 Years of the Warden Service

Tuesday, October 13th, 2009
Warden Family, courtesy Whyte Museum

Warden Family, courtesy Whyte Museum

In partnership with the Jasper Yellowhead Museum for the 100th anniversary of the Warden Service, Banff’s Whyte Museum hosts A Way of Life, A Legacy to Protect: 100 Years of the Warden Service until November 15th. The exhibit tells the story of a warden’s life back when each headquarters was a simple log cabin from which wardens performed varied duties such as building backcountry cabins, maintaining trails and forestry telephone lines, patrolling campgrounds, caring for animals, controlling mosquitoes and operating ski patrols. The Whyte has added the Warden’s climbing expedition (part of the 1985 centennial of the creation Canada’s national park system), the essential supporting role of Warden’s families, as well as the story of Windy Lodge (No. 3 Warden Patrol Cabin) situated on the Museum’s riverside grounds.

Festival of Eagles

Tuesday, October 13th, 2009
Golden Eagle

Golden Eagle, photo by Szmurlo

Experience the annual migration of the majestic Golden Eagle in Canmore October 16-17 during the Festival of Eagles. Join celebrations that include guided hikes, interpretive theatre, displays and guest speakers. Get close and personal with a golden eagle (without binoculars) during Colin Weir’s Alberta Birds of Prey exhibit. Evening speaker highlights include: Sid Marty for an evening of song, spoken word and storytelling (Oct 16; 7:30 pm; $15 at the door), and Karsten Heuer to hear what a decade of travel along the spine of the Rockies (Yellowstone to Yukon Hike), across Arctic tundra (Being Caribou) and east across Canada (Finding Farley) has taught this local wildlife biologist and his filmmaking wife Leanne Allison (Oct 17; 7:30 pm; $15 at the door). The Festival Pass ($20) is available at Café Books, as are advance tickets ($12) for Sid Marty or Karsten Heuer.

Colourful Autumn Hike

Monday, October 5th, 2009
Larch Valley courtesy Parks Canada/Stefanie Gignac

Larch Valley courtesy Parks Canada/Stefanie Gignac

Hiking Larch Valley from Moraine Lake is a popular trail, especially in the autumn when the alpine larch trees turn a radiant golden hue. There’s a 350 m (1150 ft) elevation gain in the relatively short 2.4 km (1.5 mi) one-way hike. And with a meadow near the top, you are rewarded with unobstructed mountain vistas and panoramic view of the Valley of the Ten Peaks. Group Access: Hiking Larch Valley may require hikers to travel in a tight group of four or more if grizzly bears are in the area (check with Parks Canada 403-522-3833).

3-D Artistry

Monday, October 5th, 2009
Glass Plant by Susan Gottselig

Glass Plant by Susan Gottselig

The Canmore Public Library Art Gallery hosts Off the Wall: CAAG’s Three-Dimensional Art Exhibition to Oct 20. View (and possibly purchase) the diverse works by 15 of the best 3-D local artists. So drop by to marvel at stunning glass sculptures by Susan Gottselig, handcrafted jewellery by Rudi Peet and functional and artistic pottery by John and Katie Borrowman from Of Cabbages and Kings, plus other impressive 3-D pieces by local artists.

Northern Melodies

Monday, October 5th, 2009
Leela Gilday

Leela Gilday

Known for music that is strong and clear, Leela Gilday’s soulful songs will move you. She is recognized as one of Canada’s most important Northern artists and has won numerous awards including a Juno. Gilday is playing at The Banff Centre (tickets 403-762-6301) this Saturday October 10th.

Sizzling Masterpiece

Monday, October 5th, 2009
Bison and chicken fajitas at Iron Goat Pub

Bison and chicken fajitas at Iron Goat Pub

The enticing sound of sizzling bison, chicken, peppers and onions on a cast iron hot plate combine with spiced aromas to bring Mexican fare with a Rocky Mountain twist to life. The build-it-yourself fajitas at Iron Goat Pub & Grill are enhanced by the colourful presentation of pico de gallo (hand cut salsa), guacamole, grated cheddar, sour cream and lettuce—all the ingredients to create a mouthwatering masterpiece (the best fajitas I’ve tasted).—LS

Reclaimed Wood

Monday, October 5th, 2009
Spice Box from Two Day Designs

Spice Box from Two Day Designs

What’s old is new again. Unique furniture by Two Day Designs is created from antique lumber, most notably from old wine barrels. Heritage Artisan Furniture (hailing from Olds, Alberta) creates distinctively handcrafted furnishings from salvaged prairie barnwood. These one-of-a-kind pieces have been etched by nature’s elements and the passage of time. Drop by Castle Mountain Home Furnishings to pick out a rustically elegant treasure.—LS

Cowboys to Catwalks

Monday, October 5th, 2009
Cowboy hat from Lammle's

Cowboy hat from Lammle's

The crease of a cowboy hat used to indicate where you lived, and if you were a rancher, wrangler or rodeo rider. But today’s hats are more fashion statement than practical wear. Cattleman hats with big middle crease and side dents are the most popular. Real cowboys sport wool or rabbit felt hats ($100+). The rest of us don straw ($20-$100) for mountain horseback rides and the Calgary Stampede. Lammle’s and The Trail Rider have hats for all.—RM


Starbucks Instant Taste Test

Friday, October 2nd, 2009
Starbucks-Via-Ready-Brew_580_2432

Starbucks Via Read Brew

Head to Starbucks in Banff or Canmore this weekend (Oct 2-4) for a free taste test of their new instant coffee product, Via Ready Brew. See if you can taste the difference between their new instant version and their traditionally brewed coffee. 20 years in the making, Via is microground and is sold in 3- or 12-packs of Columbian or Italian Roast.

Distinguished Dining

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009

Seafood appetizer at Post Hotel

Seafood appetizer at Post Hotel

Wine Spectator Grand Award, Four Diamond recipient and a Distinguished Restaurants of North America designation—try the Post Hotel’s tasting menu for succulent samples of the restaurant’s signature cuisine. Offerings change daily under the direction of European-trained, executive chef Hans Sauter. —RM