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Please note: This feature article is from a past issue of WHERE magazine. Please be aware that the information in this article may be out of date and should be verified before planning your trip.
Diverse, lively, rich with attractions and individual character, Toronto’s neighbourhoods play an essential part in the experience of this city. Whether by bike, by car, by subway, streetcar or by foot, get to know Toronto, street by street, district by district.
ENTERTAINMENT DISTRICT
Queen Street West to the north, York Street to the east, Lakeshore Boulevard to the south and Spadina Avenue to the west
Nonstop entertainment is the name of the game here, from lunchtime to well after 2 a.m. when the bars and nightclubs close. As far as theatre and attractions go, this area is the densest in Toronto, with full-scale musicals playing at regal venues The Royal Alexandra and Princess of Wales theatres, The Canon Theatre and Elgin Winter Garden Theatre Centre (189 Yonge St., 416-314-2901). Catch live comedy at Yuk Yuks (page 81) and Second City,, concerts at stately Roy Thomson Hall (60 Simcoe St., 416-872-4255) and Hollywood blockbusters at the immense Paramount (259 Richmond St. W., 416-368-5600) movieplex. Tours of the district, including several behind-the-scenes looks at Toronto’s largest and busiest sport venues, the Air Canada Centre (40 Bay St., 416-815-5500), home of the NBA’s Toronto Raptors and the NHL’s Maple Leafs, and SkyDome, home turf for MLB’s Blue Jays and the CFL’s Argonauts, are a great way to learn more about the city. Longing for hockey season to start again? For hockey fans, the Hockey Hall of Fame (30 Yonge St. 416-360-7765) honours Canada’s favourite past time with memorabilia, interactive games and the Stanley Cup. See classic hockey highlights and explore this country’s rich radio and television history at the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (250 Front St. W., 416-205-8605). The most obvious attraction in town is the one you can see from almost anywhere—the CN Tower, measuring in at 553.33 m (1,815 ft. 5 in.). Canada’s Walk of Fame (page 133) features the sidewalk stars of Shania Twain and Jim Carrey. The MZTV Museum of Television (277 Queen St. W., 416-599-7339) looks at the evolution of the tube with a large selection of some of its earliest and most dynamic designs. While you’re there, stop in at Speaker’s Corner (299 Queen St. W., at John Street), where $2 lets you vent, cheer or simply smile for the video camera.
For a huge selection of sports gear and paraphernalia, there are plenty of specialty shops along King Street West and some of the hippest retail shops and galleries in the city can be found along Queen Street West (see page 29 for a detailed look at Queen Street West ).
Whatever your tastes—from fine dining and casual lunching, to fabulous brunches and lively sports bars—the Entertainment District is guaranteed to stand and deliver, from funky pre-theatre dining to the restaurants of some of the city’s celebrity chefs to the hottest club and bar action in the city.
GETTING THERE: Take the University subway line to St. Patrick or Osgoode stations. If travelling by car, take the Gardiner Expressway to York Street.
DANFORTH/GREEKTOWN
Danforth Avenue between Broadview and Pape Avenues
Old World ambience merges with New World amenities on this eastern chunk of Bloor Street, which turns into The Danforth after the Bloor Viaduct. A wave of Greek immigration to the area in the early part of the 20th century is reflected in the many Greek and Mediterranean-inspired restaurants, cafés, tavernas, bakeries and shops that line the main strip. On the Danny, as it is known to locals, things hop from dusk on, with some restaurants and bars staying open until 3 a.m. in the summer. If a few storefronts and restaurants appear vaguely familiar, it may be because you’ve seen them before: The hit film My Big Fat Greek Wedding was shot on location here.
What to do? Sit back on one of the many outdoor patios to scoop up tzatziki, hoummus and pop kalamata olives. The street also boasts an international culinary lineup—Belgian, Japanese, Cuban, Indian and Thai to name a few—as well a number of environmentally aware tenants at Carrot Common mall (348 Danforth Ave., 416-361-1124). Greektown’s two major events are the live music celebration Sounds of The Danforth, July 3 and 4, at the Logan/Danforth parkette, and the 11th annual Krinos Taste of the Danforth, August 6 to 8. Greektown’s most popular and highly anticipated street party, rich with food from area restaurants and live music, Taste of the Danforth attracts an estimated one million people each year.
For more information on the neighbourhood go to www.greektowntoronto.com.
GETTING THERE: Hop on the Bloor subway line and get off at Broadview station, or ride the 504 streetcar to the intersection of Broadview and Danforth.
BLOOR-YORKVILLE
From Charles Street West up to Davenport Road, and from Avenue Road to Yonge Street
It’s the highest retail rent in Toronto, home of the most exclusive fashion labels and luxurious hotels and is populated with chic bars and nightclubs bursting with even more stylish patrons. Serious shoppers with platinum cards, ladies who lunch and spa, only to lunch and spa again, and not a few celebrity spottings—particularly during the Toronto International Film Festival in September—is the norm. Culture vultures will find The University of Toronto, the Royal Ontario Museum, and The Bata Shoe Museum. In its hippie days, Yorkville was hangout central for artists and as a result a number of high end galleries remain here. Stroll about on your own, or call Art InSite for tours. Shoppers can buy at big name boutiques—Chanel, Prada, Louis Vuitton and Gucci, to name a few—visit exquisite antiques shops, or stroll a couple of kilometres of underground malls. Check out Holt Renfrew Centre, Manulife Centre and Hazelton Lanes, a world unto itself and one of the prettiest shopping centres we’ve seen. Dining ranges from sushi to bistro fare to four and five diamond hotel dining.
GETTING THERE:The Bloor-Yonge and Bay subway stops. A cab from Union Station runs $8 to $10.
DISTILLERY DISTRICT
Mill Street from Parliament to Cherry Street
Think SoHo or Covent Garden and you’ll have some idea of what to expect at the Distillery Historic District. An architecturally stunning pedestrian mall, the more than 44-building complex houses art galleries displaying classic to avant garde creations, unique restaurants, upscale fashion boutiques—there’s even a fashion and accessory shop for your pampered pooch—trendy cafés and an on-site brewery. To ensure variety and quality, all tenants are hand-picked by the property owners and absolutely no franchise or chain operations are allowed.
In the mid-1800s the site of the former Gooderham & Worts distillery was the largest of its kind in the British Empire. In its present incarnation, the area has been used as the set of many big-budget films including Chicago, The Recruit and X-Men.
There’s something going on every weekend at the Distillery, from arts and crafts sales to live jazz. See sidebar above for a calendar of events.
GETTING THERE: From King subway station take the 504 King Street car east to Parliament, either walk south or take the 65 Parliament bus to The Distillery. A cab ride from Union Station will cost between $4.50 and $6.50.
See www.thedistillerydistrict.com for more information.
HARBOURFRONT
Queens Quay West from Bay Street to Spadina Avenue
On the edge of pretty Lake Ontario, where sailboat-dotted water meets a blue sky, Harbourfront Centre offers visitors a potent cocktail of art and culture from Canada and around the world. It’s a great weekend destination, with adult and family activities that go on all day and into the night.
The waterfront is also picturesque backdrop to some of Toronto’s most esteemed cultural attractions—Power Plant Contemporary Art Gallery, Premier Dance Theatre and Harbourfront Theatre Centre. How to pass the time? Enjoy Free Flicks at the CIBC stage in July and August; catch a free concert in the Toronto Music Garden; view artists at work in the Craft Shop (York Quay Centre, 235 Queens Quay W.), or tour the Toronto Islands by boat. Shopping includes one-of-a-kind works by emerging and established Canadian artists, a healthy selection of Inuit art and crafts, and assorted shops with a Canadian focus at Queen’s Quay Terminal.
For more information on Harbourfront events, call 416-973-4000 or see www.harbourfrontcentre.com.
GETTING THERE: Take the Harbourfront streetcar (509, 510) from Union Station to Simcoe Street.
LITTLE ITALY
College Street between Bathurst Street and Ossington Avenue
A trendy strip with an intimate European atmosphere, Little Italy is best known for its cool coffee bars, hip lounges, romantic trattorias and some of the best Italian cuisine this side of the Atlantic. The best way to experience the neighbourhood is to simply walk the busy strip on a warm summer’s evening. The majority of the city’s young and carefree professionals can be found sipping colourful cocktails on various fashionable sidewalk patios. While the bulk of restaurants feature Italian cooking, there is significant variety, with Portuguese, Mediterranean and French menus—a reflection of the changing demographic within the neighbourhood’s streets, as well as its expanding tastes. After the last plates have been cleared away, an exciting nightlife emerges, from Latin music and dancing, to cocktails or a film at The Royal (606 College St., 416-516-4845), an independent cinema showing an eclectic bill.
While Little Italy may be better known for food than fashion, there are still a few reasons to hit College Street by day. In response to the growing presence of young hipsters who now live alongside the established Italian families, a number of stylish shops have emerged, including those for fashion, Vespas, cool urban gear, magazines and newspapers from around the world—and Italian bakeries (many open until late-night).
GETTING THERE: Take the Yonge or University subway to College or Queen’s Park, respectively. Hop on a westbound streetcar, and hop off at Bathurst Street.
CHINATOWN
Queen Street West to College Street, Bay Street to Spadina Avenue
Packed tightly into narrow and busy streets, this area is chock-full of visual diversion. Bins brim with exotic foods, posters of international pop stars are pasted to storefronts and a variety of meats and baked goods sit on display. Walk along the streets and see what the vendors crowded onto the sidewalk are selling. Find everything from straw mats to incense to a sticky rice pastry wrapped in banana leaves. For a leisurely lunch, try dim sum—bite-sized eats served steaming hot in wooden baskets. Visit a Chinese herb shop to look at and smell the various dried goods used for cooking and medicinal purposes. There are Chinese restaurants, seafood houses and Vietnamese barbeques lining the streets, making you wish it was mealtime all the time. Next to eating, shopping is the thing to do. Chinatown Centre (222 Spadina Ave., 416-599-8877) is a mall full of shops selling Chinese CDs and DVDs, books and novelty items. For an artsy experience, peruse the exhibits at the Art Gallery of Ontario, like the collection of works by Canadian artist Tom Thomson. For a guided tour, A Taste of the World has two walking tours: First Chinatown: 125 Years Old, and Second Chinatown: Foodies New Quarters. Both include visits to an herb shop, a bakery and a dim sum meal.
GETTING THERE: From St. Patrick subway station take the Dundas streetcar or walk west to Spadina Avenue.
BEACHES
Queen Street East, from Coxwell Avenue to Neville Park Boulevard
Graciously hugging the shores of Lake Ontario, this sunny stretch is, not surprisingly, a popular summer spot. The city’s athletic contingent are well pleased by the countless recreational opportunities available. Runners, walkers, Sunday strollers, cyclists, kayakers and rollerbladers can be seen bronzing in the sun from the early hours of the morning until long after the sun has set. Stroll along the boardwalk, recline in one of the area’s parks—Kew Beach Gardens and Ashbridges Bay Park are faves—or check out the various retail and dining opportunities that line Queen Street East. The Beaches International Jazz Festival is a highly anticipated annual event that sees a wide selection of live performers take the stage. This event also includes street fairs and sidewalk sales, arts and crafts and various other live entertainment.
GETTING THERE: Take the streetcar eastbound along Queen Street and get off anywhere between Coxwell and Neville Park.
CHURCH & WELLESLEY
Church Street, north and south of Wellesley Street East
The lively centre of Toronto’s Gay and Lesbian community—rainbow flags adorn street signs and storefronts—the area offers a diverse and eclectic mix of people, places and attractions to keep you occupied. A vibrant social community populated with casual neighbourhood restaurants and nightclubs, there’s no end of places to mix with the locals. Find a small selection of specialty and retail stores celebrating sexual diversity as well as clothing and accessory shops. One of the city’s best and most diverse bookstores, This Ain’t the Rosedale Library (483 Church St., 416-929-9912) makes its home here—find books and magazines from small and independent publishers as well as some mainstream offerings—as does the highly regarded Buddies In Bad Times theatre (12 Alexander St., 416-975-8555), best known for its provocative theatre productions. On the weekends catch a variety of performances from bands to burlesque at its extra space Tallulah’s Cabaret.
The area’s signature event is Pride week in June. The seven-day revelry attracts an estimated 750,000 visitors to the city each year.
GETTING THERE: From the Bloor/Yonge subway stop walk east to Church Street. Follow south along Church to Wellesley.
THE ANNEX
Avenue Road to Bathurst Street, Bloor Street West to Dupont Street. Accessible from St. George, Spadina and Bathurst subway stations
Sandwiched between the glitzy Yorkville neighbourhood and the easy going, family-friendly Bloor West Village, the Annex is a pleasing mix of uptown and downtown sensibilities. Home to a large student and academic population—the St. George Campus of the University of Toronto is nearby—as well as a number of people involved in the city’s arts community, the Annex is a genuine neighbourhood and on the weekend residents fill the sidewalk patios. Bloor Street is the main retail strip, and West of Spadina Avenue you will find a selection of small but popular neighbourhood eateries, pubs and specialty stores. The bright lights of Honest Ed’s bargain emporium at Bloor and Bathurst streets, owned by theatre mogul Ed Mirvish, are legendary. Behind Bloor, the side streets are lined with lovely old homes and gardens. Mirvish Village, on Markham Street just west of Bathurst, is a stretch of antiques shops, bookstores and a Saturday organic foods market.
GETTING THERE: Walk west along Bloor Street from the corner of St. George to Bathurst.
MOUNT PLEASANT
Mount Pleasant Road between Millwood Road and Eglinton Avenue East
This area exudes quaint community charm. As well as boasting a unique selection of specialty shops, ambient restaurants and pubs. The area is a veritable paradise for antiques lovers, with a range of shops calling the area home.
The tidy area also features tranquil Mount Pleasant Cemetery (375 Mount Pleasant Rd.). The graceful resting place provides a scenic backdrop for a leisurely walk, with many architectural and artistic touches as well as a nod
to the city’s history. Since 1876, Mount Pleasant Cemetery has been the final stop for many important community leaders and prominent Canadians such as Toronto’s first mayor William Lyon Mackenzie and the famed pianist Glenn Gould. The Mount Pleasant Mausoleum boasts classic Georgian-style architecture with an exterior of granite and an exquisitely detailed bronze and marble interior.
GETTING THERE: From the Eglinton subway stop, either take the bus or walk east along Eglinton to Mount Pleasant, then walk south.
OLD TOWN TORONTO
Front Street from Bay Street to the Don River, south to The Esplanade and north to Queen Street
Formerly considered the Town of York, this was once the city’s central hub of political, religious, educational and commercial activity. Today, the area is dotted with many historical buildings that reflect the area’s rich history, as well as acting as a retail hub for furniture and home accessories. For a true taste of what Toronto was like in days past, visit Mackenzie House (82 Bond St., 416-392-6915), the former home of Toronto’s first mayor, William Lyon Mackenzie. Currently on exhibit is Old Town Toronto: Images of Past and Present, featuring historic photographs, postcards and maps of the city, produced by the Enoch Turner Schoolhouse (106 Trinity St., 416-863-0010), the city’s first free school since 1848. For architectural enthusiasts, the landmark Flatiron Building (49 Wellington St. E.), a Romanesque and Gothic revival-style building completed in 1892 to serve as the offices of the Gooderham & Worts Distillery, is a must-see. The core of the city’s commuter and train-travellers pass through the Beaux-Arts-styled Union Station (65 Front St. W., 416-393-4636), which was completed in 1927 and at the time was the most opulent station constructed in Canada. One of the more impressive local interiors is that of BCE Place (161-181 Bay St.). Its soaring 85-ft. high arches, designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, house a complex of shops and restaurants and connects to the subway system and the underground walkway PATH. A neighbourhood-must is the St. Lawrence Market (corner of Jarvis and Front streets), named by Food & Wine magazine as one of the 25 best markets in the world. Inside, find a cornucopia of vendors selling fresh cheese, meats and fish, plus assorted fruits, vegetables and grains. The performing arts has a strong presence here as well, with the Hummingbird Centre for the Performing Arts (1 Front St. E., 416-393-7469), the home of the Canadian Opera Company and the National Ballet of Canada. Many a performer has had his or her moment on stage here, from Bill Cosby and Oscar Peterson to Diana Krall. The St. Lawrence Centre for the Performing Arts (27 Front St. E., 416-366-7723) is a theatre complex of its own, encompassing the Bluma Appel Theatre and the Jane Mallet Theatre, and is home to the Canadian Stage Company. In August, the area comes to life with Buskerfest (Aug. 26 to 29), a lively celebration of street performers, including mimes, sword swallowers, acrobats and jugglers.
GETTING THERE: From Union Station, walk east along Front Street, head north on Sherbourne and follow westward along King Street.
BLOOR WEST VILLAGE/RONCESVALLES
Bloor Street West, between Glendonwynne Road and Jane Street
Old country charm and delicacies prevail here in this predominantly Eastern European community. When European immigrants originally settled here they opened numerous deli, cheese and meat shops, fruit stands and bakeries, and the area quickly gained a reputation for these local and fresh markets. Sunglow Bakery & Delicatessen (2226 Bloor St. W., 416-762-3036) is a neighbourhood favourite, where one can find everything from fish and meats to cheese and fresh-baked pies. Fresh fish, shrimp, scallops, lobster and mussels are the catch at Snapper’s Fish Market (263 Durie St., 416-767-4083), and for delectable French and Viennese-style pastries—of note is the sacher torte, a concoction made of dark chocolate, ganache, walnuts and rum—stop by Sweet Gallery (2312 Bloor St. W., 416-766-0289). Aside from the numerous food shops, there are also clothing, shoes, housewares and sporting goods shops. Neighbouring Roncesvalles Avenue is home to the city’s Polish and Ukrainian communities. Similar to Bloor Street West, deli and fruit shops reign here. High Park, the city’s largest urban park, is a tranquil green space of rolling hills and wooded paths. Also encompassed within High Park is Colborne Lodge (Colborne Lodge Drive, 416-392-6916), the former home of Toronto’s first architect John Howard, the Regency-style villa maintains most of its original furnishings. A favourite local past time is to catch the Canstage Dream In High Park (page 85). This year, the esteemed theatre company stages their interpretation of Shakespeare’s romantic comedy As You Like It.
GETTING THERE: Take the Bloor-Danforth subway to High Park, Runnymede or Jane stations.
QUEEN STREET WEST & WEST QUEEN WEST
Queen Street between University Avenue and Crawford Street
Eclectic and eccentric, fashionable and funky, this trendy strip offers a unique take on the cityscape that never gets dull. The fun begins from University Avenue, where the street comes alive with apparel shops (both independent and brand names), cafés and restaurants (many with packed patios, perfect for taking in the visual feast) and busy bars. At the centre of it all sits the ChumCity building, home to Toronto based TV-networks MuchMusic and Citytv. Don’t be surprised to see people pressing their faces up against the windows, trying to get a peek at the latest celeb popping by Canada’s version of MTV. From Bathurst Street onward find West Queen West, an area lined with fashion boutiques, home decor shops, trendy restaurants and more. For a well-deserved break, stop by Trinity-Bellwoods Park and enjoy a peaceful stroll among the tall trees. Continuing westward, the Gallery District begins. Here, find a great collection of vintage furniture shops and countless art galleries (both large and small), exhibiting everything from black and white photography to landscape painting. In need of a pick-me-up? Small cafés and cool indie restaurants abound. A feast for all the senses, Queen Street West provides an urban trip that can’t be replicated anywhere else. Whether you're ready to shop, eat, gallery-hop or simply watch the human parade, this neighbourhood has it all.
GETTING THERE: Between University Avenue and Dufferin Avenue. Walk west along Queen from Osgoode station, or take the westbound Queen streetcar.
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