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Tim Pawsey

Hot Dining: 4 Tasty Taphouses

Dockside tempts with pan-fried chilli squid (front) and sauteed tiger prawns (back). Photo by KK Law

The burgeoning beer scene here yields no shortage of hop-friendly dining.
1 Dockside (pictured) Discover Granville Island’s “other” brewery and dine in vista-kissed surroundings.
2 Howe Sound Brewing Take a 45-minute trip to Squamish to sample Howe Sound Lager with seafood chowder or ale-braised pork sliders.
3 Steamworks Enjoy freshly brewed quaffs, such as Lions Gate Lager, in a brass-trimmed, wood-panelled Gastown pub overlooking the harbour.
4 Yaletown Brewing Grab a glass of Downtown Brown along with a steaming bowl of sliced beef tenderloin tip stroganoff in this red-bricked Yaletown haunt.—Tim Pawsey

Hot Dining: Elegant Dining at Hart House Restaurant

Hart House photo by KK Law

In a welcome contrast to the bustle of downtown, elegant and romantic Hart House is set in manicured gardens on the tranquil shores of Burnaby’s Deer Lake Park. This Tudor-style home welcomes lovers and others to cozy up inside. Regional specialties range from grilled BC salmon to Yarrow Meadows duck breast with roasted beets, before dessert of chocolate terrine or espresso crème brûlée, all offered with well-chosen wines from an extensive cellar.—Tim Pawsey

Hot Dining: Steak’s New Meating Place at Black + Blue

The bar and meat-aging cellar at Black + Blue. Photo by KK Law

Downtown’s newest steak emporium, Black + Blue (pictured) is a positive stunner with no shortage of buzz, wrapping prime beef and killer cocktails in a dazzling three-tiered setting highlighted by a glass-walled elevator. Uber-cuts from the Himalayan-salt-walled dry-aging room range from PEI Blue Ribbon and Canadian Reserve Angus to USDA RR Ranch and Wagyu, grilled precisely to taste and offered with a variety of sauces. Good sustainable seafood options cater to the less carnivorously inclined. Think high-energy protein palace…then multiply by 100. For a less contemporary though still very flavourful take on steak, wander down to clubby Hy’s Encore, established in 1962. For simple but flawless steak frîtes, and wines to go along, rendez-vous chez Bistro Pastis.—Tim Pawsey

Hot Dining: Beyond Sashimi

The food at ShuRaku is as lovely as art. Photo by KK Law

Even though the city boasts countless sushi bars, the raw fish specialty is only part of the Japanese scene. Chef Masahiro Omori takes small plates to new heights at Granville Street’s ShuRaku Sake Bar & Bistro (pictured). Tucked away downstairs at Alberni and Thurlow, long-running Aki is a robata specialist. And nearby hibachi-style Kobe Japanese Steak House puts on a knife-whirling teppanyaki show. Warning: don’t try this at home.—Tim Pawsey

Hot Dining: Great Steaks in Vancouver

The Shore Club photo by KK Law

Downtown Deluxe

With the feel of a luxurious ocean liner, The Shore Club (pictured) blends a striking mahogany-wrapped decor with the best cuts of AAA Alberta prime beef and West Coast seafood served simply and elegantly. Chill over a perfectly poured vesper martini or sidecar at the downstairs lounge before ascending the gracious, sweeping stairs to enjoy a porterhouse steak, filet mignon, plentiful bouillabaisse or macadamia-crusted halibut in an elegant setting in front of the bustling open kitchen. Other worthy haunts range from Gotham to Hy’s Encore to Black + Blue.—Tim Pawsey

More information: (more…)

Hot Dining: Cannery Redux at Goldfish Seafood and Chops

Sockeye salmon wellington with pinot noir butter sauce. Photo by KK Law

Cannery Redux

When the waterfront’s long-running Cannery succumbed to port security measures, former owner Bud Kanke took up the challenge by incorporating some of the original hallmark dishes into the menu at his Goldfish Seafood & Chops in Yaletown. Reincarnated classics include the pastry-wrapped sockeye salmon wellington and the smoked Alaska black cod, while other mainstays include brick chicken, braised beef short rib with cashew brittle, and a seafood tower stacked with marine treats.—Tim Pawsey

More information:

GOLDFISH SEAFOOD & CHOPS $$. D (daily). 1118 Mainland St. 604-689-8318. www.goldfishseafood.com

Hot Dining: Pink Salmon at O’Doul’s Restaurant & Bar

Pink salmon with Pemberton potatoes and chanterelle mushrooms, at O'Doul's. Photo by KK Law

Regional Hero

Not long ago, West Coast salmon was so plentiful that fishers used to throw back pinks. Nowadays, the milder flavoured, pale-fleshed, sustainable cousin of hard-to-find sockeye and coho has found new favour, thanks to chefs such as Chris Whittaker at O’Doul’s, who likes to serve locally caught salmon in inventive ways. Taste it also at Diva at the Met, Yew and The Fish House in Stanley Park, among others. Best way to check who serves sustainable seafood? Download the free Ocean Wise app from iTunes.—Tim Pawsey

More information:

O’DOUL’S RESTAURANT & BAR $$-$$$. B/L/D (daily), brunch (Sa-Su). 1300 Robson St. 604-661-1400. www.odoulsrestaurant.com

DIVA AT THE MET $$-$$$. B/L/D (daily), brunch (Sa-Su). Metropolitan Hotel, 645 Howe St. 604-602-7788. www.metropolitan.com/diva

YEW $$-$$$. B/L/D (daily), brunch (Sa-Su). Four Seasons Hotel, 791 W. Georgia St. 604-692-4939. www.yewrestaurant.com

THE FISH HOUSE IN STANLEY PARK $$. L/D (Tu-Su). 8901 Stanley Park Dr., next to the Pitch ‘n’ Putt. 604-681-7275. www.fishhousestanleypark.com

Hot Dining: 5 Holiday Dining Highlights

The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver's Candy Castle. Photo courtesy Fairmont

Celebrate in style this holiday season.

1 Oru in the Fairmont Pacific Rim invites you to indulge in a festive lunch buffet, with traditional faves and modern Asian influences (11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. weekdays from Dec. 5 to 24, $34.95 per person).

2 Shaughnessy Restaurant, tucked away in the magical surroundings of VanDusen Botanical Garden’s Festival of Lights, serves West Coast and continental fare nightly.

3 The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver’s Candy Castle (pictured) is the centrepiece of the historic hotel’s holiday festivities, a fitting welcome to 900 West Lounge.

4 The 50th annual Carol Ships Parade of Lights cruises Burrard Inlet, False Creek and English Bay from Dec. 2 to 23. Prime viewing points include Cardero’s, Lift Bar-Grill-View, The Teahouse in Stanley Park, The Salmon House on the Hill, Bridges and the English Bay location of The Boathouse.

5 Bacchus Restaurant and Lounge at the Wedgewood Hotel yields a festive traditional setting with it blazing hearth, carol singers at some lunchtimes and a wealth of seasonal fare.—Tim Pawsey

Hot Dining: Eco-Friendly Green Table Restaurants

Pork rack chop with Parmesan gnocchi and bacon jus, at Hamilton Street Grill. Photo by KK Law

4 Eco-Friendly Eats

 

Looking for a meal that’s as good for the environment as it is for you? These Green Table–certified restaurants are sustainable from top to bottom.

1 Hamilton Street Grill Warm and friendly, this converted Yaletown warehouse is known for certified Angus steaks and great seafood.

2 Raincity Grill Across the street from English Bay beach, regional-seasonal plates are paired with wines from throughout the Pacific Northwest.

3 Commune Cafe Right downtown, this minimalist cafeteria-style spot with a hipster buzz serves all things free-range, organic and sustainable, from dawn to dusk and beyond. (more…)

Hot Dining: Grey Cup Game-Day Restaurants

(From top) Orange and black bean Pemberton beef with potatoes, Yarrow Meadows duck breast, and portobello mushroom dumplings, at Wild Rice. Photo by KK Law

Game-Day Favourites

As Grey Cup fever sweeps the city, and the BC Lions continue to roar, convenient stadium options abound. East meets west at Wild Rice, which sports a contemporary take on Chinese cuisine with local ingredients. Go for the Yarrow Meadows duck breast or seared albacore tuna with ginger-shallot daikon. More good eats close to BC Place range from lamb tagine at Belgian-inspired Chambar to lamb osso buco at Lupo, which also offers a pre-event menu from 5 to 6:15 p.m.—Tim Pawsey

More information:

WILD RICE $$. L (F), D (daily). 117 W. Pender St. 604-642-2882. www.wildricevancouver.com X Map 1: C6

CHAMBAR BELGIAN RESTAURANT Other European, Where to Dine Awards since 2007. Chef of the Year, Vancouver magazine 2011. Best Other European, Vancouver magazine since 2008. $$$. D (daily). 562 Beatty St. 604-879-7119. www.chambar.com

LUPO RESTAURANT & VINOTECA $$. D (daily). 869 Hamilton St. 604-569-2535. www.luporestaurant.ca

Hot Dining: Heritage Tastes at Boneta

Boneta's new digs. Photo by KK Law

Heritage Tastes

Gastown’s popular Boneta has moved—almost right next door. The edgy new spot, tucked in behind Gassy Jack’s statue, sports a French-inspired, locally grounded menu and a convenient back door off Blood Alley. Those seeking more traditional continental fare head to Water Street Cafe, while seafood lovers pack into Cork & Fin and hop hounds find the city’s best craft brew selection at cozy and casual Alibi Room.—Tim Pawsey

More information:

BONETA Bartender of the Year, Vancouver magazine 2011. This modern bistro serves artfully presented dishes on a constantly changing menu. Reservations advised. $$. D (M-Sa). 12 Water St. 604-684-1844. www.boneta.ca

WATER STREET Cafe Overlooks Gastown’s cobbled streets and trademark steam clock. Fresh seafood, veal, lamb and daily specials. Private dining rooms. Reservations recommended. $$. L/D (daily). 300 Water St. 604-689-2832.

CORK & FIN Casual seafood and wine bistro. Decadent seafood dishes, oyster bar and vegetarian items. $$-$$$. D (Tu-Su). 221 Carrall St. 604-569-2215. www.corkandfin.ca

THE ALIBI ROOM Trendy spot serves dishes inspired by the modern English tavern. Menu changes seasonally. DJs (F-Sa). $$. D (Tu-Sa), brunch (Sa-Su). 157 Alexander St. 604-623-3383. www.alibi.ca

Hot Dining: Top Drops

Delectable food and wine pairings at Giovane Cafe. Photo by KK Law

Tucked into the Fairmont Pacific Rim, near the Vancouver Convention Centre, Giovane Cafe is handy for quick bites and great coffee. At night, though, the space transforms into a sophisticated wine bar with Italian cheeses and house-made meats, pizzas and, of course, wine. The list features more than 40 wines by the glass, including Barolos and Barbarescos, kept fresh by the state-of-the-art Enomatic system.—Tim Pawsey

More information:

GIOVANE CAFE $-$$. B/L/D (daily). Fairmont Pacific Rim, 1038 Canada Place. 604-695-5501. www.giovanecafe.com

Hot Dining: All’s New at Yew

Yew's popular Low Thai'd cocktail. Photo by KK Law

The Four Seasons’ flagship room, Yew, with its soaring ceiling and two communal tables, now features inventive marine cuisine, highlighted by a dazzling new raw bar. Top tastes include albacore tuna with Aggasiz-hazelnut granola and lime-miso aioli; scallop crudo; and roasted steelhead with bourbon-maple-squash purée. Wines are well chosen, while creative cocktails are all shook up by star bartender Justin Taylor.—Tim Pawsey

More information:

YEW Hotel Dining & Bar, Where to Dine Awards since 2008. $$-$$$. B/L/D (daily), brunch (Sa-Su). Four Seasons Hotel, 791 W. Georgia St. 604-692-4939. www.yewrestaurant.com

Hot Dining: 4 Sweet Treats

Handmade chocolates from Thierry. Photo by KK Law

These uber-patisseries and irresistible bake shops cater to even the most discerning aficionado.

1) Thierry Chocolaterie/Patisserie Thierry Busset’s unabashedly Parisian-styled (and licensed) new arrival has us swooning over all manner of handcrafted classic chocolates and pastries—not to mention macarons—made fresh daily using only the best artisanal ingredients.
2) Notte’s Bon Ton Pastry & Confectionary This bakery has been satisfying the city’s sweeter teeth since 1926, with raspberry jam and butter cream napoleons, butter croissants, mouth-watering cheesecakes and the celebrated diplomat cake.
3) Mink A Chocolate Cafe Downtown’s only all-chocolate cafe tempts with handmade delights of every kind, from chocolate fondue to ganache-filled chocolate bars, and serves superlative coffee, too.
4) Xoxolat West side chocolatier walks on the wild side with a sea salt and triple peppercorn dark chocolate bar and a West Coast breakfast bar—caramelized bacon and espresso in milk chocolate—but the showstoppers are the chocolate shoes.—Tim Pawsey

More information:

Thierry. Open late (daily). 1059 Alberni St. 604-608-6870.

www.thierrychocolates.com

Notte’s Bon Ton Pastry, 3150 W. Broadway. 604-681-3058.

www.nottesbontonpastry.com

Mink A Chocolate Cafe 863 W. Hastings St. 604-633-2451.

www.minkchocolates.com

Xoxolat, 2391 Burrard St. 604-733-CHOC (2462).

www.xoxolat.com

Hot Dining: French Resurrection

The French Table photo by KK Law

Chef Hervé Martin, who closed his long-running Hermitage earlier this year, has resurfaced at Main and 23rd, just a short cab ride from downtown. The French Table (pictured), neighbourhood bistro in style, sports a menu hinging on classics such as coq au vin, duck confit, steak frîtes and pan-fried sweetbreads, along with an approachable wine list that still includes Martin’s family-estate Burgundy. Find more good Gallic fare at North Vancouver’s Chez Michel and at west side Mistral Bistro.—Tim Pawsey

More information:

The French Table, $$. L (M-F), D (daily), brunch (Sa-Su). 3916 Main St. 604-689-3237.

www.thefrenchtable.ca

Chez Michel Restaurant, $$. L/D (Tu-Sa). 1373 Marine Dr., West Vancouver. 604-926-4913.

www.chezmichelvancouver.com

Mistral Bistro, $$. L/D (Tu-Sa). 2585 W. Broadway. 604-733-0046.

www.mistralbistro.ca

Hot Dining: The Great Pumpkin

Photo by David Hills/istockphoto.com

Vancouver brewers celebrate Halloween early with a bevy of pumpkin ales. Taste the best of the season at Steamworks Brewing Co., Granville Island Brewing Taproom and Central City Brewing Co. in Surrey. Or try them all by the flight at St. Augustine’s Pub on Commercial Drive, which also boasts no less than 40 beers on tap.—Tim Pawsey

More information:

Steamworks, $$. L/D (daily). The Landing, 375 Water St. 604-689-2739.

www.steamworks.com

Granville Island Brewing Taproom, 1441 Cartwright St. 604-687-2739.

www.gib.ca

Central City Brewing Co., $. L/D (daily). 13450-102 Ave., Surrey. 604-582-6620.

www.centralcitybrewing.com

St. Augustine’s Pub, $. L/D (daily), brunch (Sa-Su). 2360 Commercial Dr. 604-569-1911.

www.staugustinesvancouver.com

Hot Dining: Taste-Filled Italian

Beef carpaccio with walnuts, gorgonzola, arugula and aged balsamic, at Cibo Trattoria. Photo by KK Law

Tucked away in the retro Moda Hotel, Cibo Trattoria yields robust Italian flavours with pasta made fresh daily. The constantly evolving menu may feature tastes such as roast suckling pork, crackling, juices and fresh porcini; ravioli stuffed with sweetcorn, ricotta, peas and mint; and grilled skirt steak with beans cooked in tomato, chilli and marjoram. Pre-theatre diners catch the set menu (5 to 7:30 p.m.). Voted best new restaurant in Canada by enRoute magazine in 2009.—Tim Pawsey

More information:

Cibo Trattoria, $$-$$$. D (M-Sa). Moda Hotel, 900 Seymour St. 604-602-9570.

www.cibotrattoria.com

Hot Dining: Canadian Cuisine, Eh!

Edible Canada photo by KK Law

Head to Granville Island to discover Edible Canada, a sleek bistro, wine bar and retail store that celebrates all things comestible and Canuckish. Nibble on crispy, bronzed, Fraser Valley duck fat fries; slurp richly flavoured West Coast seafood bisque; or savour BC birch syrup and kasu-roasted sablefish, all from a menu that includes plenty of vegetarian and gluten- and dairy-free options. Refreshments range from hard-to-find Okanagan and Vancouver Island wines to “eastern” beers such as Steam Whistle and Propeller, for homesick Torontonians and Haligonians.—Tim Pawsey

More information:

EDIBLE CANADA AT THE MARKET Full-service bistro celebrates the best in BC and Canadian cuisine, with fresh ingredients and artful presentation. Take-away window, patio and demo kitchen. Also a retail space with artisanal foods and unique kitchen wares. Sign up for a culinary tour. $$. B/L/D (daily).

1689 Johnston St. 604-682-6675. www.ediblecanada.com

Hot Dining: Finny Faves

Local ling cod and chips at Go Fish. Photo by KK Law

Locals who love Gord Martin’s open-air, dockside Go Fish are already hooked by the second, more landlocked, indoor location, just arrived on Broadway near Granville. Highlights from the sustainable Ocean Wise menu: scallop ceviche with heirloom tomato and watermelon salad, oyster Po’Boys, seafood tacos with smoked chilli sauce, wild salmon with Dungeness crab potatoes, and a trio of fresh fish ’n’ chips.—Tim Pawsey

More information:

GO FISH Local seafood at its freshest. Savour authentic fish tacos with homemade soft shells and a changing selection of fresh fish on the patio at the Fisherman’s Wharf location, or get take-out to enjoy at home. $$.

Fisherman’s Wharf, 1505 W. 1st Ave. 604-730-5040. L/D (Tu-Su).

1521 W. Broadway. 604-734-9421. L/D (M-Sa).

www.bin941.com

Hot Dining: Dazzling Drops

Winning bottles of the 2011 Lieutenant Governor's Awards for Excellence. Photo by Tim Pawsey

Looking for the best of BC wines? Search out these winners of the 2011 Lieutenant Governor’s Awards for Excellence at local wine shops and liquor stores.

  • Howling Bluff Estate Winery 2009 Pinot Noir
  • Laughing Stock Vineyards 2010 Pinot Gris
  • Mt. Lehman Winery 2010 Viognier Reserve
  • Quinta Ferreira Estate Winery 2008 Syrah
  • Red Rooster Winery 2008 Meritage
  • Sandhill Wines 2009 Small Lots Syrah
  • St. Hubertus and Oak Bay Estate Winery 2009 Dry Riesling
  • Stoneboat Vineyards 2009 Pinot Noir
  • Sumac Ridge Estate Winery 2006 Steller’s Jay Brut
  • Volcanic Hills Estate Winery 2010 Rosé
  • Wild Goose Vineyards and Winery 2010 Mystic River Pinot Blanc

Tim Pawsey