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Hot Dining: Steak’s New Meating Place at Black + Blue

The bar and meat-aging cellar at Black + Blue. Photo by KK Law

Downtown’s newest steak emporium, Black + Blue (pictured) is a positive stunner with no shortage of buzz, wrapping prime beef and killer cocktails in a dazzling three-tiered setting highlighted by a glass-walled elevator. Uber-cuts from the Himalayan-salt-walled dry-aging room range from PEI Blue Ribbon and Canadian Reserve Angus to USDA RR Ranch and Wagyu, grilled precisely to taste and offered with a variety of sauces. Good sustainable seafood options cater to the less carnivorously inclined. Think high-energy protein palace…then multiply by 100. For a less contemporary though still very flavourful take on steak, wander down to clubby Hy’s Encore, established in 1962. For simple but flawless steak frîtes, and wines to go along, rendez-vous chez Bistro Pastis.—Tim Pawsey

Hot Dining: Great Steaks in Vancouver

The Shore Club photo by KK Law

Downtown Deluxe

With the feel of a luxurious ocean liner, The Shore Club (pictured) blends a striking mahogany-wrapped decor with the best cuts of AAA Alberta prime beef and West Coast seafood served simply and elegantly. Chill over a perfectly poured vesper martini or sidecar at the downstairs lounge before ascending the gracious, sweeping stairs to enjoy a porterhouse steak, filet mignon, plentiful bouillabaisse or macadamia-crusted halibut in an elegant setting in front of the bustling open kitchen. Other worthy haunts range from Gotham to Hy’s Encore to Black + Blue.—Tim Pawsey

More information: (more…)

Hot Dining: Cannery Redux at Goldfish Seafood and Chops

Sockeye salmon wellington with pinot noir butter sauce. Photo by KK Law

Cannery Redux

When the waterfront’s long-running Cannery succumbed to port security measures, former owner Bud Kanke took up the challenge by incorporating some of the original hallmark dishes into the menu at his Goldfish Seafood & Chops in Yaletown. Reincarnated classics include the pastry-wrapped sockeye salmon wellington and the smoked Alaska black cod, while other mainstays include brick chicken, braised beef short rib with cashew brittle, and a seafood tower stacked with marine treats.—Tim Pawsey

More information:

GOLDFISH SEAFOOD & CHOPS $$. D (daily). 1118 Mainland St. 604-689-8318. www.goldfishseafood.com

Made in Alberta

Entice your taste buds with our famed regional cuisine: the best of home-grown beef and bison

BY JAN HOSTYN

Here in Alberta we’re slightly spoiled. Our summers are full of festivals, outdoor farmers’ markets and crazy and unpredictable weather. Once winter blows in we’re treated to even more festivals and farmers’ markets – warm indoor ones – and yet another helping of wild weather. Maybe the best part of calling Alberta home, though, is our proximity to some of the best beef in the world – Alberta beef, of course. And while we’re talking beef, we’ve got to include the equally stellar Alberta-raised bison. Stepping up to cook that beef and bison are a number of talented and innovative Edmonton chefs. These culinary wizards seek out the best of the best and then unleash their magic touch – with panache galore. Rest assured that whatever these chefs are whipping up with Alberta beef and bison, from simple to intricate, there’s always a bit of “wow” hovering nearby. This is truly a partnership to be savoured. Check out these Edmonton eateries that proudly – and oh-so-deliciously – serve Alberta beef and bison.

Image courtesy of Yang Gao

Lux Steakhouse + Bar
‘Lap of LUXury’
Yes, LUX is a steakhouse. But banish those old-fashioned steakhouse images that immediately pop into your head. Instead, think suave, sophisticated and downright dignified. Warmth and richness radiates throughout LUX and everything here, from the decor to the service to the food, exudes oomph. Because it is still a steakhouse, LUX does do steaks – killer steaks, in fact, cut from the very best Alberta beef. And nothing showcases the best of the best like LUX’s ‘Lap of LUXury.’ A tender grilled 24 ounce ribeye is truly the star on this loaded plate, but the sides are nothing short of extraordinary. Savour the steak, but do not ignore its plate- mates: decadently rich truffled lobster mac n’ cheese and creamy potatoes au gratin. And if that’s not extravagant enough, the ‘Lap of LUXury’ also comes with little pots of hollandaise and cabernet demi- glace. Pour them on whatever you want – with or without abandon. Just a warning, though: this dish is probably best shared. You’ll have no problem demolishing the house-made Bison Gyoza, though – you definitely won’t want to share that. Commerce Place, 10150-101 St., 780.424.0400.

Image courtesy of Michael Kennedy

Bistecca
The “Bistecca”
Yes, Bistecca is also a steakhouse but again, there’s nothing ordinary about it. The twist here – apart from the elegant surroundings, creative kitchen and thoughtful wine selection – is that this is an Italian steakhouse. What does that mean, exactly? Well, it means Bistecca, led by its passionate Corporate Executive Chef Sonny Sung, uses only the very best of ingredients. And, because those top-quality ingredients are already bursting with flavour, they’re treated simply and respectfully – with magnificent results. Two of those ingredients really shine: hormone and antibiotic free premium Alberta beef and Alberta bison. Bistecca means “beef steak” in Italian, and there’s no better way to experience the magic of this eatery than by digging into its namesake, The Bistecca. The kitchen takes a spectacular 14 ounce ribeye, brushes it with a herb-infused olive oil and then rubs it with sea salt and black pepper. A quick sear and grill and voila, The Bistecca. Simple? Perhaps. Stunning? Undoubtedly. And since it’s a privilege to share the plate with such a magnificent piece of beef, the sides change almost daily, but rest assured: they’re far from ordinary. Expect fabulous veggies and innovative creations such as red quinoa with gorgonzola and golden raisins. If you can’t set foot in an Italian restaurant without doing the pasta thing, try the Bison Cannelloni. Alberta bison, pasta and a wild mushroom cream sauce. 2345-111 St., 780-439-7335.

Image courtesy of Michael Kennedy

Creations
Country Style Bison Meatloaf

Stunning, impressive and downright gorgeous – that pretty much sums up this south-side dining room. As for the food, everything that comes out of this kitchen seems to have that extra bit of, well, something. Canadian cuisine is taken seriously here, and everything from homey to inspired makes an appearance. And of course, Alberta beef and bison are featured prominently. Lean Alberta bison takes a starring role in Creations’ Country Style Bison Meatloaf, and it just might be the perfect comfort food for a chilly Edmonton evening. Hints of garlic and herbs tease your tongue, but really, it’s the bison that steals the show. It’s lovely on its own, but when you scoop up some of the garlic mashed potatoes along with it and give everything a quick dip in the wild mushroom sauce, saying it’s phenomenal might not even do it justice. Although the menu changes frequently, something featuring Alberta beef or bison is sure to tempt you. Glazed Beef Ribs, anyone? 4235 Gateway Blvd. (in Sawridge Hotel), 780-989-4439.

Image courtesy of Michael Kennedy

The Keg Steakhouse & Bar – West End
Pecan Sirloin

Everyone knows The Keg – after all, this chain of restaurants is just about everywhere. So much so, in fact, that the Keg has practically evolved into THE steakhouse for many of us. And while each location has its own unique personality, one thing never changes: Kegs everywhere know exactly what do with a steak. And yes, if you pop into the west-end Keg, those steaks are cut from premium Alberta beef. When you walk through the door of a Keg, you know you’re in for one great steak. For great and exotic, though, you might want to order the Pecan Sirloin. This succulent 8 ounce sirloin is definitely dressed up to dazzle. Not only do the crushed pecans and bold barbeque sauce add layers of flavour, but the smattering of goat cheese gives it a luxuriously seductive richness. That’s not all, though. The finishing touch? A divine red wine herb au jus. For something a bit more traditional, try the Filet Mignon wrapped in applewood smoked bacon. Steak and bacon together on the same plate…need I say more? 9960-170 St., 780-414-1114.

Hot Dates: Dine In Whistler

To June 30

The Mix by Ric's, in Whistler

Whistler may be best known for skiing and mountain biking, but gourmets also make the two-hour drive for the wining and dining scene. Frugal foodies anxiously await Dine In Whistler, when 33 restaurants offer three-course meals at four appetizing prices ($19, $29, $39 and $49). There’s something for every taste, whether it’s the inventive Italian cuisine at Quattro at Whistler, perfectly cooked sirloins at Hy’s Steakhouse, West Coast–inspired tapas at The Mix by Ric’s, modern comfort food at 21 Steps—or a special creation by a chef from Whistler Cooks Catering, whipped up in your hotel room.—Sheri Radford

2010 Where to Dine Awards

By Tim Pawsey

Widely recognized as one of the continent’s most significant dining destinations, Vancouver is a foodie’s paradise. Blessed by ethnic diversity of global proportions, the city plays host to myriad styles and influences, underpinned by a cornucopia of local produce and a wealth of marine species, while a thriving local wine industry yields perfect pairings. This year, Where celebrates 75 years of serving globetrotting travellers, who dish on their Vancouver favourites in the 15th annual Where to Dine Awards. (more…)

Hot Dining: New in Town

Bouillabaisse from The Shore Club.

In September 2010, the city got a new addition to its fine dining scene when The Shore Club opened in the Westin Hotel. Originally started in Vancouver, the restaurant made a name for itself based on its steak and seafood. Particularly popular is their signature bouillabaisse, filled with almost every type of seafood in the kitchen and finished with a saffron broth. With an elegant – yet modern – interior, this is the place to go whether you’re celebrating an anniversary or getting together for after work drinks. 11 Colonel By Dr., 613-569-5050.

Hot Dining: Top Taste

Steak at the Four Seasons Whistler's Sidecut

A recent addition to Whistler’s dining scene: Sidecut. This steakhouse earned a coveted spot on Where Canada’s Best New Restaurant list for 2010. Each 40-day-aged steak is served with your choice of rub and comes with six signature sauces.—Jennifer Patterson

2010 Dining Guide: Surf and Turf

For a classic dinner of steak or seafood, these restaurants are hard to top.

Hot Dining: 5 Dream Decors

Market by Jean-Georges at the Shangri-La Hotel. Photo by KK Law

In a nod to Vancouver Fashion Week (Nov. 3 to 7), check out these stylin’ rooms.
1 Market (pictured) Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Vancouver destination yields a soothing, gently traditional feel that combines contemporary and classic themes.
2 La Terrazza Soaring ceilings, striking frescoes, swags and swaths define an exuberant Italian personality at this Yaletown flagship with its lounge bar and elegant private cellar room.
3 Lift Bar-Grill-View This Coal Harbour destination blends elegant interior lines, expansive glass and sweeping harbour views with plush leather seating and an edgy, contemporary, onyx backlit bar.
4 The Shore Club Elegant curves of warm wood, dramatic chandeliers and an expansive staircase that links downstairs lounge to upstairs dining room and open kitchen all combine for a luxurious experience.
5 Yew Natural light, wood, granite and a giant sandstone fireplace reflect BC’s natural beauty and artfully complement the West Coast–focused fare.—Tim Pawsey

Hot Dining: 5 Secret Patios

The sophisticated patio at Goldfish Pacific Kitchen. Photo by KK Law

1 Joe Fortes The tastefully adorned, plant-filled, rooftop garden sits above busy Robson Street at Thurlow.
2 Goldfish Cozy couches beckon from the back of this Asian-inclined West Coaster.
3 Gotham This discreet alfresco hideaway is mere steps from Pacific Centre.
4 Dockside Granville Island’s “other” brewery offers refreshing, waterside ales.
5 Cardero’s This sun-soaked afternoon escape in Coal Harbour lures with crispy wok squid and sesame-crusted albacore tuna.—Tim Pawsey

Hot Dining: Rogue Kitchen & Wet Bar

Check out the latest rogue concept sweeping the Vancouver food scene. The aptly named Rogue Kitchen & Wet Bar is the Lower Mainland’s first pay-what-you-think-it’s-worth restaurant. This eatery offers a host of dishes from mini corn dogs to sushi stacks, salmon to steak, pizzas to pastas. The menu offers a suggested price; if you decide to pay less, leave a note explaining why the food wasn’t up to par. If you had a great meal and leave more than the suggested price, the difference is donated to charity. Liquor is not subject to this policy and servers should still be tipped. Time to go rogue!—Kendra Wong

Wherelist: Best New Restaurants 2009

Where editors from across the country have cast their ballots for the Best New Restaurants to open in Canada in 2009. From creative twists on traditional cuisines to stylish décors and high quality food for reasonable prices, these are the eateries you won’t want to miss from coast to coast.

Veneto Tapa Lounge, Victoria

Victoria’s best new restaurant takes traditional tapas to a whole new level. Led by chef Tod Bosence, the sophisticated, urban Veneto Tapa Lounge offers both a hip bar area and quieter dining room, ideal for enjoying Bosence’s creative dinner menu. Each entree is presented tapas style – those in the mood for beef, for example, will enjoy it three ways: veal ravioli with portabella mushroom ragout and roasted garlic cream sauce; marinated short rib with parmesan polenta cake; and New York strip roulade with spicy lobster stuffing and bordelaise sauce.

Cibo Trattoria, Vancouver

With London’s River Café alumnus Neil Taylor heading up the kitchen and ex-Lumiere general manager/sommelier Sebastien Le Goff in charge, it didn’t take long for Cibo to gain a solid reputation for its vibrant rustic Italian cuisine, thoroughly grounded in West Coast ingredients. Taylor’s dishes, which change by the week (if not the day), are constructed with uncomplicated—but wickedly exacting—flair.

Parker House Grill & Wine Bar, Calgary

Parker House is the kind of place where diners can experience high quality service, ambience and food, for a reasonable price tag. Chef Andrew Keen, known for his excellence in “forgotten fare,” has created a menu inspired by traditional New England comfort dishes with creative twists. For dinner, most entrees (with the exception of their steaks) sit in the mid-twenties range, while diners on a budget can try one of their thin-crust pizzas for as low as $12.88.

Creations Dining Room & Lounge, Sawridge Inn Edmonton South, Edmonton

Artful, delicious dining at Creations—the paint’s barely dry and the buzz is on for the eclectic Canadian fusion cuisine of Creations, the stunning new dining room and lounge in the atrium of the Sawridge Inn Edmonton South. Walls of fire, water, badlands hoodoos and a huge dreamcatcher treat the senses as menu items entice patrons to explore palate pleasers such as Sherried Beef Caprese.

Rustica Steakhouse, Canadian Rockies

Rustic has earned its place as one of the Canadian Rockies’ top restaurants for its elegant ‘mountain lodge’ atmosphere and uncompromising dedication to Canada Prime Beef. But it’s the cuisine of Caribbean-born Chef Stefan Mahon that keeps them coming back for more. Only the top 0.3% of beef in Canada earns Prime designation (a superior grade to AAA)—Stefan’s New York cuts, grand filet mignon and prime rib chops are prepared with a signature dry rub, seared under a 1500°F (815°C) broiler and presented on 500°F (260°C) plates with garlic butter.

Hermanos, Winnipeg

Winnipeggers are feeling the Latin heat thanks to the fiery flavours of South American cuisine at this year’s arrival of Hermanos Restaurant and Wine Bar. Set in a 5,500-square-foot warehouse in the Exchange District, fast lunches, tapas and mains are found on the mainly Argentinean- and Brazilian-influenced menu. The crispy fried empanadas are a must-try.

Raw Aura, Mississauga

Raw Aura, true to its name, offers a menu of entirely raw cuisine—the better to emphasize the natural and nourishing properties of fruit, vegetables, nuts, seeds and sprouts. In an intimate yet airy space, friendly staff dish out delectably fresh fare including a “peace wrap” bursting with avocado, tomatoes, carrots, kale, sprouts and hummus, and zesty lo-mein featuring noodles made of zucchini and golden beets.

Loire, Toronto

Loire, a self-described “casual gourmet” spot, well-situated along increasingly foodie-friendly Harbord Street offers fresh, seasonal dishes that could include chili- and cornmeal-crusted Lake Erie whitefish, grilled New York striploin and a succulent beef or lamb burger on challah bread. This intimate restaurant effortlessly straddles the line between relaxed neighbourhood fave and boldface fine-dining destination.

Teca, Muskoka

Overlooking Lake Rosseau is Teca, a fine Italian restaurant located within the luxurious Rosseau Resort & Spa. Surrounded by the natural beauty of the Muskoka Lakes, find this decidedly urban dining room and a centrally located open kitchen that dishes up authentic rustic Italian fare. Tuck into freshly made pasta—from papperdelle and gnocchi to spaghetti and meatballs—or thin crust pizza made in a wood-stone oven, as well as veal chops, fish, striploin and rack of lamb.

The Grand Pizzeria & Bar, Ottawa

Nestled on one of the most auspicious corners in Ottawa’s bustling ByWard Market, The Grand Pizzeria is a popular addition to the downtown dining scene. Built in the late 17th century, this enviable location once housed The Grand Hotel. Today, it’s home to the perfect pizza pie. Traditional Italian appetizers (antipasti, salads) make way for the main attraction: authentic Napoletana pizza. The dough is created and hand-pressed by Master Pizzaiolo Pasqualino Oliveri, who placed first in the 2004 European Pizza Championship, among other honours.

Pipa Restaurant & Bar, Halifax

Chef Luis Gaspar and partner Victoria Dunham Gaspar are longtime veterans of Halifax’s dining scene. And when they decided to embark on a project all their own, they saw a glaring omission in the city’s dining scene. Specializing in Portuguese cuisine, with rich, filling and full-flavoured dishes. Pipa is the only restaurant of its type in Halifax, specializing in Old World and Brazilian dishes such as Moqueca (fish stew) and Feijoada (a stew of meats and black beans). Seafood dishes abound, including fresh grilled sardines.

November Editor’s Picks: Dining

Harbour Sixty1. In a historic building just north of the waterfront, Harbour Sixty has long been known for its opulent decor, high quality of service and, of course, culinary excellence. But the elite steakhouse isn’t resting on its laurels. To mark its 10th anniversary, the restaurant boasts a dramatically updated interior. Among the many design features: high, brocade-swathed chairs, suede wallpaper and mother of pearl in the bar area, plus graphic valances and contemporary art by Joshua Jensen-Nagle in the dining space; the two distinct rooms encircle a marble- and agate-lined gallery kitchen that serves up the finest USDA Prime and authentic Kobe beef, fresh seafood and sumptuous desserts. Or, descend to the formal, lower-level dining room, where dark woods and leather foster a clubhouse atmosphere and selections from the superior wine cellar are showcased in sleek glass cabinets.

Union<br>photo by Robert J. Brodey2. At long last, Torontonians and visitors can see for themselves the state of Union, one of the newest restaurants to open on the increasingly hip Ossington Street strip. Thanks to a Toronto Life–backed blog—on which chef Teo Paul documented the many months of successes and setbacks between concept and first service—the farm-to-fork eatery had one of the more hotly anticipated openings in recent memory. It’s quickly become a fixture in an emerging neighbourhood, where dedicated locavores can nosh on fare that uniformly utilizes Ontario-fresh ingredients including grain-fed elk, artisan cheeses and seasonal organic vegetables straight from farmers’ fields.

Grace restaurant

Grace restaurant

3. As the cold weather begins to bite, warm your belly with timely takes on comfort-food classics at these welcoming restaurants.

>> The swank dining room of the Drake Hotel belies its carte of toothsome classics like mac ‘n’ cheese ($19) and a po’ boy sandwich with fried cod ($15). Or, try one of executive chef Anthony Rose’s daily blue-plate specials.

>> Modern farmhouse fare dominates the menu at Grace, where dishes such as lamb pot pie ($20) draw inspiration from traditional family dinners. Milk and cookies ($7) bring your meal to a simple yet memorable conclusion.

>> Though its hipster quotient can be intimidating, the food at OddFellows is anything but. The meaty combo of Jack Daniels–braised pork belly and spiced short rib ($16) is enough to make a slow-food lover swoon.

The Premier West

A glimpse inside the elite Calgary Stampede experience

By Sally MacKinnon

Behind closed doors at Stampede Park, Calgary’s elite separate themselves from the masses of the midway. This is a place where neon lights, street sweepers and deep fryers are nowhere to be seen; they trade places with mahogany woods, personal chefs and AAA strip loin. Welcome to Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous: Stampede Edition.

Three venues comprise Stampede Park’s premium seating: Ranahans, The Lazy S and the Infield Suites, as well as the groups-only 30X Saloon. Though they aren’t located above the grounds, if Calgary transformed into Ancient Greece they would be Mount Olympus. All are behind closed doors, cost big money to see, and are often packed to capacity.

In preparation for the 2009 Calgary Stampede, we’ve put together a glimpse into this mysterious world, as well as ways to maximize a more down-to-earth experience.

INFIELD SUITES

If premium seating is Mount Olympus, the infield suites would be Zeus’ domain. They are located behind the rodeo chutes, facing the Grandstand and within spitting distance of the bulls, broncos and cowboys.

The 28 suites were built in 1997, and vary in size and set-up. You can mingle in a stand-up saloon, lounge in a ranch-themed living room, or forgo both for the outside seating. Sound good? It is, but they’re not easy to get into—even for those willing to shell out the money.

“It’s definitely the place to be,” says Ken Knight, premium seating manager at the Calgary Stampede. “But it’s a reward for sponsors; it’s the carrot at the end of the stick.”

That being said, Knight points out that about 10 per cent of the suites are bought privately, but far in advance. For their money, buyers are given a personal chef and attendant at their beck and call. In all, the building has 150 employees—including 60 chefs—for the duration of Stampede. The menus are preset, and include items such as flambéed Athenian prawns, slow-roasted rack of lamb, and marinated AAA rib eye—followed by bananas foster cream pie flambé or a chocolate & caramel fondue.

Availability: Limited; reserved for Stampede sponsors.
Price: $2,800 – $22,200 (for 12 – 50 guests)
Contact: 403-261-9341

RANAHANS

The Stampede’s second foray into premium seating was Ranahans, a private members’ club on the third level of the Grandstand—built for one main purpose:

“What we’re trying to create here, for corporate Calgary, is networking,” says Knight, who also oversees Ranahans. “This is a very happening place at about 4 o’clock in the afternoon. It’s wall-to-wall people.”

Knight says the idea came from sponsors, who wanted to wine and dine one client per day instead of hosting everyone in one go—especially when those clients were competitors. At Ranahans, members buy a table—with four, six, or eight places—for a minimum of five events, or book private rooms.

The dress code and the décor are both upscale western; think designer jeans, deep woods, wrought iron and leather seating. The food isn’t a buffet, it’s served at “action stations.” This isn’t beef on a bun—their roasted AAA strip loin comes with black peppercorn and cognac sauce, or you can forgo red meat for grilled lobster tails or butternut squash ravioli. But, Ranahans’ claim to fame isn’t the food; it’s the cache, and the chance to network with 280 captains of industry.

Availability: Tricky; call far in advance, and make sure you’re ready to book multiple days.
Price: $1,505 – $16,800 (for groups of 4, 6, 8, 12, 28 and 40)
Contact: 403-261-9341

THE LAZY S

Ranahans may be a refuge for oil barons, but The Lazy S—located on level four of the Grandstand—is the option for young professionals who don’t want a Petroleum Club atmosphere. The space is designed like a lounge, with black leather couches, open areas for mingling, live music and a glow bar. There is also the “terrace lounge” for those who want to be at the rodeo, but not attentively watch it.

Patrons at The Lazy S eat their meals al fresco, with a full view of the rodeo and chuckwagon races. The seats are closer to loungers than the bucket seating in the stands, and wait staff cater to diners’ every need.

The cuisine is playful. Will Kwong, the head chef for premium seating, says last year he was on a Japanese kick and incorporated miso and tempura into multiple dishes. This year, he’s enamoured with slow cooking.

“There are no rules to say you have to do it like this,” says Kwong. “They have to reel me in sometimes because I can go far into left field.”

His recommendation for The Lazy S is one of their signature dishes, the Colossal Burger: four pounds of beef, eight slices of horseradish cheddar, 12 pieces of double-smoked bacon, half a head of lettuce, six tomatoes and ancho chili mayo on a 12-inch pretzel bun.

Availability: Variable.
Price: $345 per person, $10,560 for a 24-person private suite.
Contact: 403-261-9143

MID-RANGE DINING

1. The Range: a food court with fare from local spots such as Opa and Wicked Wedge Pizza Co. Big Four Building, lower level.

2. The Clubhouse Restaurant: on the fourth floor of the Grandstand, with an à la carte menu and prime rib buffet daily from 4:30 pm to 8 pm.

3. Mavericks Dining Room & Lounge: a buffet spot on the upper floor of the Big Four Building. Also offers regular and children’s menus.