Waterfront Yoga at Canada Place
Even if you don’t know a dosha from a chakra, you’re welcome to practice your poses during Waterfront Yoga at Canada Place (to Sep. 19). Not only can you work on improving your body while gazing at the scenery, but you can work on improving your soul, too: proceeds from the program help feed local children.—Kristina Urquhart
Wildlife in Yukon Territory proves elusive
By Andrew Findlay
Autumn comes early in the Tombstones, painting the tundra in jewel colours. Photo by Robert Postma, courtesy Government of Yukon
Mist rolls across a landscape turned crimson by the chill of approaching autumn. It’s the middle of August; fall arrives early in the north. For most of the morning a friend and I have followed a small but elusive herd of woodland caribou through the alpine tundra of Tombstone Territorial Park, about a 90-minute drive north of Dawson City.
The mountains around us, black and brooding obelisks, live up to their ominous name—the Tombstones. Underfoot, there is a thick spongy carpet of mosses and lichens, delicate sieve-cup lichen and fluorescent reindeer lichen. For caribou, lichen is often breakfast, lunch and dinner.
We pause behind a ridge, lowering our bodies close to the ground, and watch. The swish of air through thickets of willow tricks my eye into perceiving the movement. Are those legs or the spindly stalks of willow shrubs?
I came north to see wildlife beneath the expansive skies and the virtually people-less landscape of the Yukon. At 186,272 square miles (482,443 square kilometers) the territory is almost twice the size of the United Kingdom, yet has a population of just 40,000, most in the capital Whitehorse. A similar number of people would be crammed into a single London borough. That’s why the Yukon has a special magnetism for people fatigued by the frantic trappings of modern life, a place to be humbled by landscape so vast that technology and the other distractions of civilization seem inconsequential in comparison.
Up here in the wild Tombstones, life for now has indeed been reduced to a few simple essentials—staying warm and scanning the horizon for animals. The mist rises, lowers, then rises again and suddenly they appear, a half-dozen caribou, black snouts aimed in our direction, their grazing interrupted by the scent of humans carried on the breeze. That is life as prey, constantly alert to clues and signals in the environment; survival depends upon it. Then just as quickly as they appear, the caribou vanish like the ultimate illusionists into the swirling mists of the temperamental mountain weather.
A week earlier I had gone in search of Fannin’s sheep, a Yukon wildlife anomaly, in the Anvil Range above the town of Faro that sits smack in the centre of Yukon. For thousands of years before lead and zinc put this region on the map, Fannin’s sheep ranged the adjacent mountains.
The story of their origins is infinitely complex. Initially scientists considered them to be a distinct sub-species of wild sheep, along with others found in North America—Stone’s and Dall’s, or thinhorn sheep, and the Rocky Mountain, California and desert bighorn sheep. Research has shown that Fannin’s are genetically Dall’s sheep, but with unique dark-colored flanks and mottled white neck that came about through the effects of interbreeding and isolation, before and during the last ice age that ended some 10,000 years ago.
Today more than 2,000 Fannin’s sheep spend their summers in the Anvil Range north of Faro and winters in the lightly snow-covered forests near the Pelly River.
Though I managed to spot a few Fannin’s sheep high on a windy ridge in the Anvil Range, the glimpse was fleeting. Wild sheep are loath to grant predators the advantage of height and I was no match for these creatures of the mountains.
I have more luck with the woodland caribou. The sky has lifted and for the first time I see the razor-cut tops of the Tombstones. As we descend toward the valley bottom we cross a patch of old snow, dimpled with caribou tracks, and then we see them again briefly gathering on a hillock, wary as always. And that is the last trace we see of those animals, swallowed like us by the vastness of the Yukon sky and landscape.
Views abound at Horizons Restaurant. Photo by KK Law
Worth the trip up Burnaby Mountain, newly refurbished Horizons (pictured) is aptly named, with stunning views reaching from distant Lions Gate Bridge to the US border. Creative West Coast fare ranges from alder-wood-grilled wild salmon, seared curried Albacore tuna and abundant shellfish cioppino to dry-aged New York steak, rack of lamb with Dijon-hazelnut crust, and roasted-shallot veal reduction. Better BC and California labels figure prominently on the well-chosen wine list. Find more vista-kissed tastes at Salmon House on the Hill, Seasons in the Park and Cloud 9 Revolving Restaurant, atop Robson’s Empire Landmark Hotel.—Tim Pawsey
Scandinave Spa makes a gorgeous oasis in Whistler
A steam bath, then a dip in the Nordic waterfall. A good sweat in the wood-burning Finnish sauna, then a cold shower. A massage, then a nap in a hammock. Hours can easily slip past at Scandinave Spa. Treat yourself to an afternoon of resting, reenergizing, detoxifying and cleansing, all against the backdrop of Whistler’s stunning scenery. The spa serves light, nutritious fare from Bearfoot Bistro at the health bar.—Sheri Radford
A luxury train ride with Rocky Mountaineer is the most relaxing and scenic way to get to Whistler
Howe Sound, the Cheakamus Canyon, the Tantalus Mountains—scenery just doesn’t get any more spectacular than this. See these sights and more on a luxurious 3.5-hour train ride from Vancouver to Whistler, on the Sea to Sky Climb with Rocky Mountaineer.—Sheri Radford
Stunning scenery sets the stage for a round of golf
By Jeff Angus and Jennifer Patterson
With all the focus West Coasters put on the great outdoors, it’s no surprise Metro Vancouver is a golfing destination. So whether you putt, drive, swing or chip your way to the eighteenth, there’s never a shortage of stellar courses to aim for that elusive hole-in-one or, even better, that perfect game.
A golfer attempts a birdie on the 14th hole at Furry Creek. Photo by KK Law
Furry Creek Golf & Country Club
If you enjoy sprawling mountain ranges and panoramic ocean views, head 40 minutes north of Vancouver to Furry Creek. The first hole prepares you for what’s ahead: a 165-ft (50-m) drop from tee to green on the 352-yd (322-m) par four. But the 14th hole is the most memorable—and most photographed—as it sits almost level with the ocean and the green is surrounded by the pristine Pacific. Don’t let the view throw you off your game; the 211-yd (193-m) hole demands accuracy off the tee.
Fun fact The famous fight scene between Adam Sandler and former The Price is Right host Bob Barker from the comedy Happy Gilmore was filmed at Furry Creek.
Tip If you’re a beginner, stock up on balls before your round, as a few wayward tee shots on this unforgiving course may have you feeling surly.
University Golf Club
In a city celebrated for its private courses such as Marine Drive, Point Grey and Shaughnessy—home of the 2005 and 2011 PGA Tour Canadian Opens—the University Golf Club has taken a different route by celebrating its public status with the slogan “non-members only.” Situated on the grounds of the University of British Columbia, the tree-lined course is a serene escape from downtown’s bustling metropolis.
Tip The wide, forgiving fairways allow for a few flubs during the round, but they narrow as you get closer to the green, so make sure your short game is in order.
Lush greens on the University Golf Club. Photo courtesy University Golf Club
Kings Links by the Sea
Bordering the Strait of Georgia, Kings Links by the Sea has uneven fairways lined with thick rough and fescue, very few trees and lots of wind. All in all, it’s a links course in the truest sense. Using natural terrain to create a playing field, the links-style course originated and was made famous in Scotland.
Tip If too much wind hinders your game, start early as the breeze picks up in the afternoon.
Fraserview Golf Course
City-owned Fraserview is known for numerous elevation changes and tricky greens. It’s one of only three public courses in the city—McCleery and Langara are the other two—certified by the Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary Program for Golf Courses. Of an estimated 32,000 courses in the world, only 677 are certified. The goal is to help golf courses preserve and protect wildlife and natural resources.
Tip The ball always breaks towards the Fraser River.
McCleery Golf Course
City-owned McCleery offers relatively flat fairways and large, welcoming greens. But don’t get too comfortable: a dozen water hazards keep you on your toes. Local duck and geese enjoy this course thanks to the ample swimming spots.
Tip To score well, keep the ball on the fairway.
Langara Golf Course
The shortest city-owned course is Langara, playing at only 6,261 yd (5,725 m) from the tips. It’s accommodating to players of all skill levels, but keep an eye out for sand traps that line the course.
Tip Precision off the tee makes navigating the rolling green less of a challenge.
Sprawling views at the Fairmont Chateau Whistler Golf Course. Photo courtesy Fairmont Chateau Whistler
Whistler
Golf legends Arnold Palmer and Jack Nicklaus recognized Whistler’s idyllic setting as the perfect spot to build their award-winning courses. It’s fitting that they set up championship courses a stone’s throw from one another, as their on-course rivalry is legendary, beginning in the early ’60s. Jack Nicklaus lent his expertise to the crafting of Nicklaus North, which sits nestled in a lush valley and has played host to big names such as Fred Couples, Vijay Singh and John Daly. It was ranked one of the top 10 public golf courses in British Columbia in 2009 by SCOREGolf Magazine. Arnold Palmer left his mark on the West Coast with his design of the Whistler Golf Club. His philosophy was to create a course that is not only fun to play but also respects nature; it incorporates crystal-clear streams and lakes. Opened in the mid-’80s, it continues to be voted one of the top spots to play in the country.
Only two Canadian courses landed a spot on Golf Digest’s prestigious list of the 75 best golf resorts in North America. The Fairmont Chateau Whistler was one of them, snagging position #23 with its winning combination of golf, lodging, food and service. The course is carved into the side of Blackcomb Mountain, with natural features including an exposed rock face, ravines and waterfalls.
Famous Names
We don’t just produce great courses, we also produce some heavyweight talent.
Mike Weir The first Canadian to win the Masters Tournament, back in 2003.
Sandra Post Won eight LPGA titles, and two were back-to-back.
Al Balding The first Canadian to win on the PGA Tour, back in 1955.
Stephen Ames Currently ranked one of the top 25 golfers in the world.
Nick Taylor Young up-and-comer is first on the world amateur golf ranking.
For more info on these and other local golf courses, click here.
Big Sky Golf and Country Club
Even those who can’t tell a putter from a driver love local golf courses, thanks to the postcard-worthy scenery. Snow-capped mountains, glacier-fed lakes, waterfalls and towering trees make up just some of the backdrop. You can rent clubs, but make sure to bring your own camera.—Sheri Radford
The gorgeous greens of Whistler Golf Club. Photo by John Henebry courtesy Tourism Whistler
1 Stunningly beautiful golf courses: there’s no better place to try for that elusive hole-in-one.
2 Skiing and snowboarding, even in the summer.
3 A leisurely hike through the mountains followed by a ride on the Peak 2 Peak Gondola.
4 Flightseeing. The scenery is even more spectacular when seen from the sky.
5 The bustling Whistler Farmers’ Market, which carries produce fresh from nearby farms.
6 Hearing accents from around the world, from both visitors and locals.
7 The pedestrian-only village.
8 Enjoying a cold beer on a restaurant patio.
9 Enough events and festivals to keep you busy every day.
10 Wandering through the many art galleries.
Hikers walk by the Peak 2 Peak Gondola. Photo by Paul Morrison courtesy Tourism Whistler
11 Friendly locals eager to point a confused visitor in the right direction.
12 Flying through the trees—with the greatest of ease, of course—on a thrilling zipline adventure.
13 A once-in-a-lifetime train trip with Rocky Mountaineer.
14 Dining on award-winning cuisine at Araxi.
15 Guided bear tours with local bear researcher Michael Allen.
16 Discovering the rich heritage of the local First Nations at the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre.
17 Gorgeous views. Whichever direction you turn, it looks like a postcard.
18 Buying fresh waffle cones overflowing with giant scoops of ice cream from Cows Whistler.
19 Shakin’ your groove thang at local nightclubs.
20 Anything and everything outdoors, from kayaking to fishing to mountain biking.
# 1. Photo by Holly Chan
1 Breathtaking cityscapes.
2 The passion for all things local—including goat cheese and heirloom tomatoes—at farmers’ markets around the city. If you forget to bring an eco-friendly shopping bag, most likely you can buy one there.
3 Rick Hansen. The local paraplegic activist makes us proud over and over again.
4 Walking, biking or blading along the 8.8-km (5.5-mi) Stanley Park seawall.
5 The perfect gift or souvenir, such as a bottle of award-winning BC wine.
6 All the Hollywood celebrities in our midst.
#11. Photo by Tony Chen
7 The gradual change from spring to summer. It’s the perfect excuse for a shopping spree.
8 Spotting cute harbour seals and majestic orcas on a whale watching tour.
9 Tasty Japanese tapas and addictive cocktails at Hapa Izakaya.
10 Living in a picture postcard every single day. Vancouver has been called the supermodel of international cities, but we’re more than just a pretty face. We have substance, too.
11 A sunset stroll along the seawall to view the inukshuk in English Bay.
12 First Nations bentwood boxes at Wickaninnish Gallery.
#13. Photo by Lili Vieira de Carvalho
13 Joining the throng of locals at the always-popular Granville Island Public Market.
14 The last few cherry blossoms of spring.
15 Tasting the season’s first sweet and juicy prawns, right out of the ocean and cooked up by a dozen of Vancouver’s best chefs, at the annual Spot Prawn Festival (False Creek Fishermen’s Wharf; May 8, noon to 3 p.m.). Don’t delay: the season for these local, fresh, sustainable prawns runs just eight weeks.
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