Get your five-day weather
Canada > Archive by tag 'mountains'

mountains

Road Trip: Vancouver Island Coastal Drive, From Victoria to Tofino

Photo James Wheeler

By Tim Johnson

A place where the mountains meet the sea, Vancouver Island’s beauty is known the world over. At times wild and untamed, the Island can be equally refined and sophisticated as well as quirky and interesting. Traversing the two-lanes that link British Columbia’s capital with its best-known surf town is a pleasurable experience—especially if you make time for lots of stops along the way.

Modes of Transportation

Travelling from south to north is the best way to tackle this drive. You can steer your own car onto a ship operated by BC Ferries and sail onto the Saanich Peninsula near Sidney, or fly into the Victoria International Airport—also near Sidney—and rent a car from there. Then get on the Trans-Canada and head north to Parksville, then west on BC Highway 4 to Tofino. Split the drive into at least two or three days.

Roadside Attractions

Take a little time to explore Victoria, a lovely city carved out of the wilds of the Pacific Northwest. Have a look at some Orcas as they swim and breach by roaring out into the Salish Sea on a zodiac with Prince of Whales, the city’s premiere whale-watching outfit, browse the shops near the city’s picturesque Inner Harbour, or take a cute little water taxi  and go for fish and chips at Fisherman’s Wharf.

And when you’re ready to roll, head over the Malahat Drive (the winding section of mountain highway that connects the Saanich with the rest of Van Island). Stop in the charming village of Chemainus, which is painted with dozens of murals celebrating the town’s history and heritage, and browse their local artisan shops. Spend a little time in Parksville, home to some of the best beaches on the island and perhaps the warmest seawater in Canada—dramatic ties create a giant beach, the sun heats the sand, and when the tide rolls back in the sand heats the water, making for a pleasurable swim. There are also a number of interesting diversions in the area, including the North Island Wildlife Recovery Centre, which rehabilitates wounded and orphaned raptors (hawks, eagles, raptors) and black bears. Browse The Old Country Market in Coombs—it’ll be the building with goats eating tall stands of grass on the roof. Inside there’s a café and rambling store that sells everything from hammocks to Quebec cheese to bread baked right on site.

Then head west, over the mountains, to Tofino, about 2 ½ hours west of Parksville, a lovely stretch of highway that winds past lakes and snow-capped peaks. Stroll along famous Long Beach, a mystical place strewn with driftwood and lapped by Pacific waves, some of which are ridden by wetsuit-clad surfers (inquire in town about a lesson).

Eats

Victoria may seem like a strange place for Southern barbeque, but you can find authentic, mouth-watering pulled pork at Pig BBQ Joint, located right in the heart of town. En route north in Mill Bay, fuel up at the original outlet of Serious Coffee,  which opened more than a quarter-century ago and paved the way for the small chain of coffee shops that has become an island institution. Please note that they also feature some pretty serious brioche, in all its gooey goodness. A little further up the road, and a little off the beaten track, have some lunch at Genoa Bay Café, where you can munch on fresh Salt Spring Island mussels or West Coast seafood chowder while taking in the view of a charming harbor filled with small boats, skirted by mountains and dense forest (it’s worth the drive). And in Tofino, chow down on fish tacos or a hearty burrito at Tacofino, a cheery orange food truck in the back parking lot of a surf shop just outside of town that has become the stuff of legend by feeding thousands of surfers.

Sleep

In Victoria, lay your head down in style at the Fairmont Empress, perhaps the city’s most recognizable landmark, with its ivy-covered facade and air of English sophistication. At the midway point of the trip, relax at Parksville’s Beach Club Resort, which sits directly on the water and features large, comfortable rooms, a spa, and an excellent steakhouse.  And in Tofino, Long Beach Lodge features spectacular sea views and more than enough comfort to rest your adventure-weary bones.

Playlist

Spinning a few songs by the Aussie activist rockers Midnight Oil—the band that did more than any other to save the old-growth forests of Clayquot Sound—is a must. Listen to Nelly Furtado in Victoria—her hometown—and as you travel over the Malahat, put on some Hot Hot Heat, who hail from nearby Shawnigan Lake. And while they’re not exactly from the Island, it seems appropriate to hold a little tribute to the rockers of the Pacific Northwest who popularized grunge rock all those years ago—Seattle’s Pearl Jam, Soundgarden and, of course, Nirvana.

Canada’s National Parks

Photo by ShutterRunner

Canada’s National Parks show the beautiful variety in our country’s topography—from British Columbia’s turquoise-tinged glaciers and Alberta’s jagged mountains to the coasts of Ontario’s lakes and seaside in the Maritimes. Among them are UNESCO World Heritage Sites recognized for their unique natural beauty, and while some are easy to access others are located in remote corners of our untamed nation. A full list of all 42 National Parks of Canada, which was the world’s first national park service, can be found at www.pc.gc.ca. This year also marks the 100th anniversary of Parks Canada, and to celebrate there are special events and celebrations—don’t think just because summer is over the fun is done, many parks are at there most stunning when the snow falls—check out a list of upcoming events here. (more…)

Road Trip: Calgary to Cranbrook on the Crowsnest Highway

A view of the Kootenays near Cranbook. Photo by That Angela

By Waheeda Harris

Modern day explorers still lust to explore the unknown – and for those wanting to point their car towards unchartered territories, the Crowsnest Highway from Alberta to British Columbia provides eye-catching views of the Rocky Mountains, historic places of interest and small town hospitality.

Modes of Transport

Highway 22 from Calgary is the way to get to the Crowsnest Highway via Turner Valley, which originates in Medicine Hat, Alberta. Although easily done by with four wheels, this old train route can be used by cyclists who will appreciate the wide highway shoulders through the mountains. Approximate driving time from Calgary to Cranbrook is four hours, 46 min and a distance of 379 km one way.

Roadside Attractions

It’s been 100 years since this rock slide happened, but the Frank Slide is still the main attraction of wee Frank, Alberta, located east of the Crowsnest Pass. When 82 million tonnes of limestone moved almost two kilometres in less than two minutes, the immense fields of rock are worth a stop to walk through the pathways (free admission).  For those wanting an up close and personal experience of the Rocky Mountains, Fernie, British Columbia offers several trails for hiking and mountain biking.  Adrenaline junkies will appreciate the wild ride of the Al Matador trail, (free access) which ascends 1200m in elevation as you navigate the single track. Make sure to point your camera lens at the Three Sisters, aka Mt. Trinity, a popular mountain of three peaks.

An hour west of Fernie, stop in historic Fort Steele, a former gold mining town that will transport you back to the 19th century. A ride on the steam train locomotive or a wagon ride will be a welcome late afternoon distraction from the road.  Once you reach Cranbrook, spend time at the Canadian Museum of Rail Travel, featuring antique rail cars, train memorabilia and the restored Royal Alexandra Hall from the Canadian Pacific Railway’s Royal Alexandra Hotel, which had been located in Winnipeg.

Eats

Start your roadtrip with a hearty breakfast at the The Chuckwagon Café on Highway 22, part of the Cowboy Trail and less than an hour from Calgary in the rolling hills of Turner Valley. Located in a barn, the café serves up traditional eggs and pancakes that will make you feel like you can take on a day on the range.  In Cranbrook, take advantage of the weekly Farmer’s Market held every Saturday morning for locally grown and made edibles and for a fine dining experience, make a reservation at Heidi’s, a favourite of the area. Their secret? The owners trained at the International Institute for Tourism and Management in Austria.

Sleep

If you’re lured to stay in the heart of the Rockies in Fernie, the Mt. Fernie Timberlodge ($385-449 per night) accommodates up to 10 travellers in an Alpine-style chalet. Weary from all that outdoor activity – guests can amble up a spiral staircase leading to the chalet’s treehouse with a hot tub with views of Mt. Fernie and Mt. Proctor.  For the final rest stop in Cranbrook, forget the highway motel strip and kick it up a notch with a stay at the luxe Prestige Rocky Mountain Resort. Ask for the John Huber Express ($599.95 per night), choosing from the Naughton or Newcastle staterooms, with décor and amenities inspired by luxury railway travel of the past.

Read

The perfect accompaniment for the Crowsnest Highway, which lies along a former Canadian train route, would be the classic writing of mystery maven Agatha Christie. Three novels feature a train theme, and can be easily found in paperback or audio book: Miss Marple in 4-50 From Paddington, and Hercule Poirot in The Mystery of the Blue Train and Murder on the Orient Express.

Hot Art: Provincial Pride

"Black-Tusk Whistler" by Deryk Houston

With British Columbia’s endless forests, mountains and ocean views, it’s not hard to figure out why people want to live or visit here. Celebrate our lovely landscape with an artful souvenir, such as Deryk Houston’s painting “Black Tusk-Whistler” (pictured), during Beautiful BC at Art Works Gallery (Jul. 25 to Sep. 8).—Kristina Urquhart

125 Things We Love About Vancouver

In honour of Vancouver’s quasquicentennial, we present 125 of our favourite things about the city. After all, 125th birthdays don’t happen every day

By Sheri Radford

The beaches at English Bay. Photo by KK Law

1 Sunning ourselves (wearing sunscreen, of course) on local sandy beaches.
2 The four beehives on the Vancouver Convention Centre’s 2.4-hectare (6-acre) living roof.
3 James “Jimmy” Cunningham. The master stonemason spent more than three decades directing the construction of Vancouver’s seawall. Even after retirement, he still kept showing up to the worksite almost daily, right up until his death at age 85 in 1963.
4 All of the movies and TV shows filmed here each year, such as Fringe, Battlestar Galactica, Smallville, The X-Files, X-Men Origins: Wolverine, Juno and the Twilight series. As North America’s third-largest film centre (trailing only Los Angeles and New York), the city deserves its “Hollywood North” nickname.
5 Canadian pride, which still lives on more than a year after the Vancouver 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games filled the city with red-and-white-clad cowbell-ringing revellers high-fiving each other and belting out “O Canada.”
6 The new and improved BC Place Stadium, which reopens this autumn. Gone is the puffy white roof that looked like a giant marshmallow. In its place is the world’s largest cable-supported retractable roof, transforming the stadium into an open-air venue.
7 Whale watching.
8 Terry Fox. Despite losing a leg to cancer, in 1980 the local athlete embarked on his Marathon of Hope, a run across Canada to raise money for cancer research. He died before completing his quest, but in September every year fundraising runs are held around the world in his honour (www.terryfox.org).
9 Bouncing the night away at the Commodore Ballroom.
10 The fact that it’s a short drive from downtown to the picturesque snow-capped mountains.
11 Our reputation as one of the greenest cities on the planet—and not just because environmental activist David Suzuki lives here. There’s more than a kernel of truth to our reputation as granola-eating, Birkenstock-wearing, planet-loving hippie freaks.
12 Stanley Park.
13 Our local sports teams, ranging from the Vancouver Canucks (the 2010-2011 NHL season’s dominant team) to the Vancouver Whitecaps (BC’s first Major League Soccer club) to the BC Lions (the CFL’s youngest team) to the Vancouver Canadians (farm team for the Toronto Blue Jays). We love them all, win or lose.
14 Soaking up the cool counter-culture vibe along Commercial Drive and Main Street.
15 Bryan Adams. Long before winning international acclaim, the raspy-voiced rocker washed dishes at Tomahawk Barbecue.

Science World perched on the shores of False Creek. Photo by KK Law

16 The large inukshuk that sits in English Bay, welcoming the world.
17 Sarah McLachlan. The local singer/songwriter resurrected her hugely popular Lilith Fair tour last summer.
18 The abundance of restaurant patios that make the most of warm summer days and stunning ocean and mountain views.
19 James Doohan. The actor who portrayed Star Trek’s Scotty (“I can’t push it any faster, Captain!”) was born in Vancouver—then explored the universe aboard the Starship Enterprise.
20 The love and appreciation for all things local and sustainable, including food, drink and even clothing.
21 Watching real estate prices soar, even during a recession. No matter how bad the economy gets, people want to live on the Left Coast.
22 Jillian Harris. An interior designer, the Vancouver resident was the first Canadian to star on the reality TV series The Bachelorette. On one memorable episode, she and her beaus rode the rails on the Rocky Mountaineer.
23 Gay pride. Rainbow flags fly high all year long, but even more come out during Vancouver Pride.
24 Yoga pants by Lululemon. Chip Wilson opened the very first Lululemon store in Kitsilano in 2000, and now there are locations around the world.
25 Homegrown authors such as William Gibson (Neuromancer), Joy Kogawa (Obasan), Nan Gregory (How Smudge Came) and Douglas Coupland (Generation X).
26 Waiting in line for servings of friendly abuse alongside banana-walnut French toast and “big ass” pancakes at The Elbow Room Cafe. Don’t even bother asking for a refill of coffee; just get it yourself.
27 The Burrard Street Bridge, which connects downtown to Kitsilano in Art Deco style.
28 Watching cruise ships sail into the harbour.
29 Mountain Equipment Co-op. Canada’s largest supplier of outdoor recreation gear and clothing turns 40 this year. That’s four decades of helping Vancouverites maintain a reputation as healthy, fit, active folks who’d rather compete in a running race than the rat race.
30 Screaming our heads off at Playland. The newest ride, Atmosfear, which opens this month, travels 360 degrees at 70 km (43 mi) per hour at 66 m (218 ft) up. Let the screaming begin.
31 The Grouse Grind. Nicknamed “Mother Nature’s Stairmaster,” it’s a steep 2.9-km (1.8-mi) trail straight up the face of Grouse Mountain. Crazily intense athletes do the Grind in under 30 minutes, while mere mortals require more like 90 minutes—and perhaps CPR.
32 Giving the credit cards a workout on Robson Street, shopping for brand-name clothes and shoes.
33 Gourmet Japanese delicacies at Tojo’s—and the welcoming, smiling face of Hidekazu Tojo himself.
34 Pamela Anderson. The blonde bombshell, an actress and Playboy model, was discovered at age 21 when shown on the big screen at a BC Lions game.
35 Pixar. The Academy Award–winning computer animation company—creators of Toy Story, Finding Nemo, The Incredibles and Up—opened a studio in Gastown last year.

The blue whale skeleton is an imposing presence at the Beaty Biodiversity Museum. Photo by KK Law

36 The plethora of outdoor activities, everything from scuba diving and rock climbing to hiking and mountain biking.
37 The fact that something is always under construction here. The skyline just wouldn’t be complete without a couple of giant cranes.
38 Dal Richards. At age 93, Canada’s “King of Swing” keeps his schedule jam-packed with gigs ranging from Summer Live (Jul. 8 to 10) to multiple performances daily during the PNE (Aug. 20 to Sep. 5; www.pne.ca) to 76 consecutive New Year’s Eve shows.
39 Spectacular sunsets.
40 Sweeping dramatically up the grand staircase in The Centre in Vancouver for Performing Arts.
41 Dogs, dogs and more dogs. You’ll find them in off-leash parks, in boutiques such as Barking Babies and Fetch, and even in downtown hotels. Both the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver and L’Hermitage employ canine concierges—though we’re pretty sure they get paid in doggie treats and tummy rubs.
42 Clothing-optional Wreck Beach. Be warned: no gawking allowed.
43 All the wildlife in Stanley Park, everything from squirrels and raccoons to Canada geese and skunks.
44 John “Gassy Jack” Deighton. You’ll find his statue in Gastown, commemorating the talkative (“gassy”) fellow who was an early settler and a saloonkeeper here in the late 1800s.
45 Botox. Vancouver physician Dr. Jean Carruthers was the first person to use Botox to smooth wrinkles—and locals have been looking fabulous ever since.
46 The clean streets.
47 Rick Hansen. The local paraplegic athlete circled the world in a wheelchair for his Man In Motion World Tour, raising money for spinal cord injury research. To mark the 25th anniversary of this achievement, on Aug. 24 a relay will begin in Cape Spear, Newfoundland, and it won’t end until it reaches Vancouver on May 22, 2012 (www.rickhansen.com).
48 Zipping along on the SkyTrain.
49 Fresh local seafood—especially when it’s certified Ocean Wise (www.oceanwise.ca).
50 Larger-than-life concerts in Rogers Arena. This month, the arena hosts Britney Spears (Jul. 1), New Kids on the Block and Backstreet Boys (Jul. 9 and 10), Katy Perry (Jul. 19), Kenny Chesney (Jul. 20) and Soundgarden (Jul. 29).
51 Living in a rainforest. Sure it’s wet, but the undeniable upside is the lush green beauty.
52 Critical Mass. On the last Friday of each month, rain or shine, hundreds of cyclists reclaim city streets en masse (www.vancouv ercm.blogspot.com).
53 Bee Bop, the smiling mascot for the Vancouver Aquarium.
54 The fact that the whole city (the whole province, really) is 420-friendly.
55 Married musicians Diana Krall and Elvis Costello, who own a home here. Other famous residents over the years: Jimi Hendrix, Bob Geldof, and too-cute-for-words couple Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russell.
56 Quatchi, Miga, Sumi and Mukmuk. Though the 2010 Winter Games ended 16 months ago, our adoration of the Olympic and Paralympic mascots lives on.
57 The two kitty-corner Starbucks at Robson and Thurlow, featured in the movie Best in Show.
58 Spending a lazy Saturday or Sunday morning wandering through a farmers’ market.
59 Captain George Vancouver. Our fine city—along with Vancouver Island and Vancouver, Washington—is named after this officer of the British Royal Navy, who explored and charted this region in the 1700s.
60 Science World at Telus World of Science. Who knew learning could be so much fun?
61 Courting Lady Luck at the slot machines in Edgewater Casino, right down on the waterfront.
62 The colourful array of umbrellas on every rainy day. A savvy Vancouverite always packs both an umbrella and sunglasses.

Red lampposts in Chinatown. Photo by KK Law

63 Flying a kite in Vanier Park on a sunny, windy day.
64 The friendly residents.
65 Bard on the Beach, which mounts four Shakespeare plays under tents every summer.
66 The University of British Columbia. Spend a morning wandering around the lush campus, then check out the blue whale skeleton in the Beaty Biodiversity Museum.
67 Shopping at Holt Renfrew.
68 Bike lanes downtown, which make getting around on two wheels just as convenient as getting around on four.
69 Spiked milkshakes at Society. Who could have guessed ice cream and alcohol go together so well?
70 The adorable otters at the Vancouver Aquarium.
71 Douglas Coupland’s 8-m- (25-ft-) tall Digital Orca, which looks like it was built out of giant Lego blocks. Folks love to pose for photos beside this eye-catching art installation outside the Vancouver Convention Centre.
72 Browsing for art and antiques on South Granville.
73 Ross Rebagliati. In 1998, the easy-going Vancouver boy won the first-ever Olympic gold medal for snowboarding.
74 Totem poles.
75 Travelling to Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands or the Sunshine Coast with BC Ferries.
76 Shoes by John Fluevog. The local designer creates unique soles for unique souls.
77 Raymond Burr. It’s a fact: Perry Mason was born here, in New Westminster. Case closed.
78 Greenpeace. The environmental organization started in Vancouver in 1971, further contributing to our hippie-dippie reputation.
79 The Art Deco details of the Marine Building.
80 Taking in the scenery on a 12-minute “cruise” to the North Shore via the SeaBus.
81 Jack Poole. The Vancouver businessman was responsible for bringing the 2010 Winter Games here. To honour his memory, the Olympic cauldron sits in Jack Poole Plaza.
82 Munching on Triple O burgers at White Spot.
83 Expo ’86. This five-month-long world exposition really put Vancouver on the map.
84 Working up a sweat in the Richmond Olympic Oval.
85 Emily Carr University. Located on Granville Island, it’s named after the beloved West Coast painter and writer.
86 The exquisite art collection at Cactus Club Cafe. Admire works by Warhol, Basquiat and Sir Anthony Hopkins while sampling “Iron Chef” Rob Feenie’s eclectic fare.
87 Vancouver International Airport, which keeps racking up accolades: for the second year in a row, YVR has been named North America’s best airport by the 2011 Skytrax World Airport Awards.
88 The 100-Mile Diet: A Year of Local Eating by Vancouverites Alisa Smith and J.B. MacKinnon. After reading it, you’ll never look at the choices on your dinner plate the same way again.
89 Joshua Jackson. Born in Vancouver, the star of Dawson’s Creek has spent much time here recently, filming the addictively watchable sci-fi TV series Fringe. (Or is it really Joshua Jackson’s doppelganger from a parallel dimension…?)
90 Shopping for fresh produce and seafood in the public market on Granville Island.
91 Celebrity spotting. See someone who looks like Reese Witherspoon? It most likely is Reese Witherspoon. (She was in town recently, filming This Means War.)
92 Michael Bublé. Born in Burnaby, the debonair jazz and swing crooner keeps scooping up Grammy and Juno awards.
93 Passing through Millennium Gate to all the exotic sights and smells of Chinatown.
94 The fact that, unlike in many major cities, no freeways run through downtown.
95 Watching toe-tapping musicals under the setting sun at Theatre Under the Stars in Stanley Park.
96 Sushi.
97 Riding on False Creek Ferries or Aquabus Ferries and checking out the charming houseboats in False Creek.
98 Sanctioned graffiti areas. Why try to stop graffiti when so much of the artwork is absolutely stunning?
99 All the neon signs lining Granville Street.

The Vancouver Lookout at Harbour Centre. Photo by KK Law

100 The cliché that’s true: you can indeed ski, sail and golf all on the same day here. Golfing and sailing are year-round activities, and even in July you can ski Blackcomb Mountain’s Horstman Glacier.
101 Eco-friendly West Coast fare at Bishop’s and Raincity Grill.
102 Spending a leisurely afternoon meandering through the Vancouver Art Gallery.
103 Lions Gate Bridge. This often-photographed suspension bridge, which links downtown to the North Shore, was built by the Guinness family back in 1937. Yes, that Guinness family, of Irish beer fame.
104 The Eye of the Wind. Scaredy-cats and acrophobics avoid it, but everyone else loves this wind turbine on Grouse Mountain. Ascend to the pod suspended beneath the turbine’s massive blades, and your breath is taken away by the sweeping 360-degree views.
105 Coffee culture.
106 Ryan Reynolds. Born in Vancouver, the star of Green Lantern and The Proposal was named People magazine’s “sexiest man alive” for 2010.
107 Learning about First Nations culture at the Museum of Anthropology at UBC.
108 The seawall.
109 The cement factory on Granville Island—which reminds visitors of the area’s roots as an industrial zone. Keep an eye out for cement trucks decorated as a strawberry and as a bundle of asparagus.
110 The tranquillity of Lost Lagoon in Stanley Park.
111 Exploring Gastown, the oldest part of Vancouver.
112 The quantity (and quality!) of food carts on city streets.
113 Breathtaking views from the top of the Vancouver Lookout at Harbour Centre.
114 Doing yoga on the beach. It’s a cliché, but we love it anyway.
115 Glass. Author Douglas Coupland gave Vancouver the nickname “City of Glass,” thanks to all the glass condominium towers dominating the city’s skyline.
116 Watching dragon boats glide along False Creek.
117 Arthur Erickson. The celebrated architect and urban planner was born in Vancouver. His designs include Simon Fraser University, Robson Square and the Museum of Anthropology at UBC.
118 Seth Rogen. The Knocked Up star, along with his friend Evan Goldberg, wrote the movie Superbad about attending Vancouver’s Point Grey Secondary School.
119 Giant public art outdoors all around the city.
120 Fleece. It’s pretty much every Vancouverite’s fabric of choice.
121 Lining up at Vij’s for lamb “popsicles.” No reservations, but worth the wait. Rumour has it that actor Harrison Ford had to stand in line just like the rest of us.
122 Michael J. Fox. Best known as the star of Family Ties, Spin City and the Back to the Future movies, the local actor and author is also an activist for Parkinson’s disease research. He was diagnosed with the disease in 1991.
123 The central branch of the Vancouver Public Library, right downtown. Reminiscent of the Roman Coliseum, this striking building often appears in movies and TV shows.
124 Living in an earthquake zone. It makes every day an adventure.
125 The fact that it’s impossible to take a bad photograph here. Just point your camera at all that natural beauty and click.

Did we miss one of your favourite things about Vancouver? Let us know at www.where.ca/vancouver and we may print your suggestion in an upcoming issue.

Fleeting Glimpses

Wildlife in Yukon Territory proves elusive

By Andrew Findlay

Autumn comes early in the Tombstones, painting the tundra in jewel colours. Photo by Robert Postma, courtesy Government of Yukon

Mist rolls across a landscape turned crimson by the chill of approaching autumn. It’s the middle of August; fall arrives early in the north. For most of the morning a friend and I have followed a small but elusive herd of woodland caribou through the alpine tundra of Tombstone Territorial Park, about a 90-minute drive north of Dawson City.

The mountains around us, black and brooding obelisks, live up to their ominous name—the Tombstones. Underfoot, there is a thick spongy carpet of mosses and lichens, delicate sieve-cup lichen and fluorescent reindeer lichen. For caribou, lichen is often breakfast, lunch and dinner.

We pause behind a ridge, lowering our bodies close to the ground, and watch. The swish of air through thickets of willow tricks my eye into perceiving the movement. Are those legs or the spindly stalks of willow shrubs?

I came north to see wildlife beneath the expansive skies and the virtually people-less landscape of the Yukon. At 186,272 square miles (482,443 square kilometers) the territory is almost twice the size of the United Kingdom, yet has a population of just 40,000, most in the capital Whitehorse. A similar number of people would be crammed into a single London borough. That’s why the Yukon has a special magnetism for people fatigued by the frantic trappings of modern life, a place to be humbled by landscape so vast that technology and the other distractions of civilization seem inconsequential in comparison.

Up here in the wild Tombstones, life for now has indeed been reduced to a few simple essentials—staying warm and scanning the horizon for animals. The mist rises, lowers, then rises again and suddenly they appear, a half-dozen caribou, black snouts aimed in our direction, their grazing interrupted by the scent of humans carried on the breeze. That is life as prey, constantly alert to clues and signals in the environment; survival depends upon it. Then just as quickly as they appear, the caribou vanish like the ultimate illusionists into the swirling mists of the temperamental mountain weather.

A week earlier I had gone in search of Fannin’s sheep, a Yukon wildlife anomaly, in the Anvil Range above the town of Faro that sits smack in the centre of Yukon. For thousands of years before lead and zinc put this region on the map, Fannin’s sheep ranged the adjacent mountains.

The story of their origins is infinitely complex. Initially scientists considered them to be a distinct sub-species of wild sheep, along with others found in North America—Stone’s and Dall’s, or thinhorn sheep, and the Rocky Mountain, California and desert bighorn sheep. Research has shown that Fannin’s are genetically Dall’s sheep, but with unique dark-colored flanks and mottled white neck that came about through the effects of interbreeding and isolation, before and during the last ice age that ended some 10,000 years ago.

Today more than 2,000 Fannin’s sheep spend their summers in the Anvil Range north of Faro and winters in the lightly snow-covered forests near the Pelly River.
Though I managed to spot a few Fannin’s sheep high on a windy ridge in the Anvil Range, the glimpse was fleeting. Wild sheep are loath to grant predators the advantage of height and I was no match for these creatures of the mountains.

I have more luck with the woodland caribou. The sky has lifted and for the first time I see the razor-cut tops of the Tombstones. As we descend toward the valley bottom we cross a patch of old snow, dimpled with caribou tracks, and then we see them again briefly gathering on a hillock, wary as always. And that is the last trace we see of those animals, swallowed like us by the vastness of the Yukon sky and landscape.

Hitting the Peaks

With winter activities galore, Vancouver’s snow-capped mountains offer more than just spectacular scenery

By Kristina Urquhart

Meghan and Mat take a break after a satisfying trek on Grouse Mountain’s snowshoe trails. Photo by KK Law

Grouse Mountain
One glance south from the top of Grouse Mountain and you’ll see why it’s one of Vancouver’s most photographed views. On a clear day, the city stretches out below you; on a foggy day, it looks as if you’re about to ski into the clouds. Skiers and snowboarders carve fresh powder through snow-dusted trees on the mountain’s 26 runs or practice tricks in two terrain parks. Get a different—but equally exhilarating—kind of adrenaline rush on the four groomed trails in the Munday Alpine Snowshoe Park, where you can attend clinics to learn to master this popular winter activity or embark on a fondue snowshoe tour. If you’re not quite tuckered out, take a two-hour tour on five ziplines or lounge in a Sno-Limo as an experienced guide pushes you down the mountainside. Make like Canadian figure skating darling Joannie Rochette and practice spins and turns on the 743-square-metre (8,000-square-foot) skating pond. Cap off your snow day with a picturesque sleigh ride through the mountain forests, then warm up with a hot chocolate by the fire in the Peak Chalet.

Cypress Mountain
This venue shot to fame last February when it hosted the freestyle skiing and snowboard competitions during the Vancouver 2010 Olympic Winter Games. The mega mountain is home to 53 runs (including four double black diamond), nine lifts and the North

A snowboarder on the half pipe at Cypress Mountain. Photo by Insight Photography courtesy Tourism BC

Shore’s tallest skiable peak at 1,646 metres (5,400 feet). Feeling gutsy? Unleash your inner Alexandre Bilodeau on the moguls run (gold medal not included). If you prefer Nordic over alpine, Cypress is the only mountain in Vancouver with cross-country ski trails. Get your heart pumping on 10 kilometres (six miles) of self-guided snowshoe trails or indulge in a snowshoe fondue tour. Tubing is fun for the whole family—there’s a separate sliding area nearby for tots aged three to five.

Mount Seymour
Snow bunnies hit the slopes at this alpine paradise, a favourite for its four terrain parks with features like jumps and rails. Ski or snowboard 39 runs of varying difficulty or traverse 10 kilometres (six miles) on the Discovery Snowshoe Trails on your own or with a guide. Fondue tours are offered here, too—inquire about the Valentine’s Day chocolate fondue snowshoe tour at 7 p.m. on Feb. 14. Kids and adults alike love zooming down the peak at high speeds, whether in the tube park or the eight-run Toboggan Park. If you haven’t packed your own toboggan, purchase a sliding carpet for a dizzying spin down the mountainside.

For more details on local mountains, click here. For information on Whistler Blackcomb, ask your concierge for a copy of Where Whistler or click here.

Winter Wonderland

Skiing, snowboarding—and a whole lot of other outdoor adventures

By Sheri Radford

Photo by Bonny Makarewicz courtesy Tourism Whistler

Snow bunnies already know about the unparalleled snowboarding and skiing—everything from downhill and cross-country to para- and heli-skiing—on Whistler and Blackcomb mountains, but those not addicted to schussing also find much to enjoy.

Tubing is ideal for klutzes, since no skill is required. As long as you can sit in an inner tube and let gravity lead the way, you’re set.
Ziplining requires a tad more ability, since you have to walk (or roll along in an all-terrain wheelchair) between launching platforms. But guides take care of the challenging parts, such as getting participants into climbing harnesses and helmets before clipping them onto ziplines.

Adrenaline junkies choose the thrill of bungee jumping or snowmobiling, while those yearning for a good old-fashioned winter opt for ice hockey on a frozen mountaintop pond or snowshoeing through a dense forest. Animal-lovers like to ride in a horse-drawn sleigh or get pulled across the countryside by a dogsledding team. (Whistler may not have the Iditarod, but it does have lots of eager huskies ready to recreate the exhilarating experience.)

The best part about a long day spent in the snow? Warming up afterwards, beside a crackling fire, with a steaming mug of cocoa.

For activities listings, click here.

Top 10 Reasons to Return

If you think Vancouver is beautiful right now, just wait until you see the city in the summer

by Sheri Radford, Jennifer Patterson and Kristina Urquhart

Downtown Vancouver and the North Shore mountains, as seen from the oceanfront between Kitsilano Beach and Vanier Park. Photo copyright Ann Badjura/Dreamstime.com

1 Gorgeous Scenery
Vancouver has no shortage of breathtaking outdoor escapes: the rolling waves of the Pacific Ocean, the almost-year-round snow-capped mountains, and greenery as far as the eye can see. Wriggle your toes in the sand at one of the many public beaches, including Kits Beach—rated one of North America’s top 10 sexiest beaches by Forbes Traveler—or Wreck Beach, where clothing is optional. Head up the mountains for scenic 360-degree views, challenging hikes and glimpses of local wildlife. Grab your camera and visit one of the city’s many green spaces, including VanDusen Botanical Garden and Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden. Bike, walk or run Vancouver’s famous seawall, a 22-km (13.7-mi) shoreline stretch that wraps around Stanley Park, past Science World and Granville Island, finishing up at Kits Beach.—J.P.

2 Major Attractions
Seek refuge in Stanley Park, where you can see summertime displays of roses and rhododendrons, catch outdoor theatre

A team races in the annual Dragon Boat Festival in front of Science World at Telus World of Science. Photo by Tom Ryan courtesy Tourism BC

shows, frolic on beaches and ogle baby beluga whales at Vancouver Aquarium. Views abound at Capilano Suspension Bridge and Grouse Mountain, where observing the antics of Grinder and Coola—two orphaned grizzly bears—is a popular summer activity. False Creek forms the backdrop for Granville Island, a hub for artist studios. Impromptu street performances are common, the Public Market boasts seasonal bounty from local farmers and the public fish sales dock is a local favourite for buying fresh, in-season seafood. Closed through most of March, Science World is spending our Winter Games as the pavilion for the Sochi 2014 Winter Games. This iconic “golf ball” is a fixture in the Vancouver skyline; inside you’ll find hands-on exhibits, science demos and educational films in the OMNIMAX Theatre.—K.U.

3 Festivals & Special Events
July and August brim with outdoor events that take full advantage of the long, sun-soaked days. Bard on the Beach presents Shakespeare’s Much Ado About Nothing, Antony and Cleopatra, Falstaff and Henry V against a stunning ocean-and-mountains backdrop. Theatre Under the Stars mounts Joseph and the

The ferris wheel at the PNE. Photo by Sheri Radford

Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat and Singin’ in the Rain on alternating nights in Stanley Park’s Malkin Bowl. The Pacific National Exhibition (PNE) celebrates its 100th anniversary with rides, midway games, outdoor concerts, parades, the PNE prize home, mini-donuts and, of course, the Superdogs. The Vancouver Folk Music Festival brings musicians from around the world to Jericho Beach Park for three days of groovy sounds. Pride Week bursts with a rainbow of gay-pride events, culminating in the Pride Parade and Sunset Beach Festival. The HSBC Celebration of Light marks its 20th anniversary with fireworks over English Bay that light up Metro Vancouver.—S.R.

4 Outdoor Adventures
When the temperature rises, outdoor enthusiasts take to the seas for kayaking, scuba diving and whale watching. From late April through October, the waters surrounding Vancouver and Vancouver Island are abundant with orcas (formerly called killer whales). Whale-watching trips offer glimpses of other wildlife, too, including porpoises, sea lions, harbour seals and eagles. Thrill-seekers in both Vancouver and Whistler ride high above the treetops of rainforests while

A pod of orcas. Photo copyright Lazareva Evgeniya/Istockphoto.com

harnessed to a cable called a zipline. Avid cyclist? Participate in myriad bike races, or head to the Whistler Mountain Bike Park for 1,507 m (4,946 ft) of bike trails and a jump park. Hike the mountains and nearby national parks, or take a low-key stroll around the seawall. After a long day in the sun, relax like a Vancouverite with a yoga session on the beach.—K.U.

5 Golfing, Sailing & Skiing
You might have heard a rumour that it’s possible to golf, sail and ski in Metro Vancouver, all on the same day. Unlike most rumours, this one is true. Highly rated courses such as University Golf Club, Westwood Plateau, Furry Creek Golf and Country Club, and Nicklaus North Golf Course boast views so stunning that it may be difficult to keep your eye on the ball. Local companies such as Sewell’s Marina can take you on a sea safari or—if you’re up to the job of captain—rent you a boat to go exploring on your own. As for catching

Nicklaus North Golf Course in Whistler

some powder in the summertime, Whistler Blackcomb’s Horstman Glacier stays open for intermediate and advanced skiers and riders through July.—S.R.

6 Winter Games Sites
Relive exciting moments from the 2010 Winter Games with a tour of Olympic and Paralympic venues, either by yourself or guided by Enjoy Tour and Travel. Canada Hockey Place, otherwise known as GM Place, is home to our NHL team, the Canucks, and sits alongside BC Place. Up on Cypress Mountain, take in the view of the Vancouver Convention Centre. To the east is the Pacific Coliseum, the showcase for figure skating. Experience your own medal-worthy moment with a lap around the Richmond Olympic Oval, open to all levels of fitness after the Games. In Whistler, follow the path of gold-medal bobsledders with a guided tour of the Sliding Centre and Olympic/Paralympic Park.—J.P.

7 Sports Teams
You’ll hear the hoots and hollers of Vancouver Canucks fans until regular-season games wrap up Apr. 10—but if the team advances to the Stanley Cup playoffs, ’Nucks fever can last into June. September marks the start of the 2011 game season for both the Canucks and the Vancouver Giants, the city’s major junior hockey team. Football fans root for the BC Lions

Canucks goalie Roberto Luongo. Photo by Jeff Vinnick courtesy Vancouver Canucks

(Jun. to Nov.), and the Vancouver Canadians play the ol’ ball game at historic Nat Bailey Stadium (Jun. to Sep.). The Vancouver Whitecaps don their cleats this summer (Apr. to Oct.) before beginning their major-league soccer career in 2011.—K.U.

8 Day Trips
Head to Squamish and Whistler for outdoor activities aplenty, including windsurfing, mountain biking and canoeing. Hop aboard BC Ferries for a trip to Victoria, the capital city of British Columbia and home to our historic parliament buildings. A skip-and-a-jump between Vancouver and Vancouver Island are the Gulf Islands, and there’s no shortage of charming getaways on Salt Spring, Galiano and Mayne islands. The Fraser Valley is the perfect spot to grab farm-fresh cheese and u-pick raspberries. The province’s wine region can be found in the Okanagan, known for its dry, sunny climate. South of the border is Seattle, home to rock legends Nirvana and Jimi Hendrix, as well as the iconic Space Needle.—J.P.

9 Restaurants
Vancouver boasts world-class cuisine, but many of our best restaurants are rented out or booked solid during the 2010 Winter Games. Return in the warmer months, then, for an eating-and-drinking tour of the city featuring summer’s cornucopia of fresh

The seaside neighbourhood of Yaletwon, with Burrard Bridge in the background. Photo copyright KWest/Fotolia.com

local produce and sun-kissed patios with breathtaking views. Your stomach will thank you.—S.R.

10 Sunshine
Contrary to popular belief, it doesn’t always rain in Vancouver. But July and August are especially bright for sun worshippers.

15 Things We Love About Vancouver: February

1 The Vancouver 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games. After years of preparation, the biggest party this city has ever seen is starting.

Olympic mascots Quatchi and Miga don their cheerful red mittens. Photo copyright VANOC/COVAN

2 Our cuddly Games mascots Quatchi and Miga, especially when they’re wearing their Vancouver 2010 Red Mittens.
3 The fact that it’s only a short car or bus ride from the beach to the snow-capped mountains. How many other cities can claim the same?
4 Walking along the shoreline in a pair of rubber boots.
5 The world’s largest Canadian flag, near the Olympic Countdown Clock.
6 Celebrity spotting. Rumour has it that supermodel Cindy Crawford, swimmer Michael Phelps, actor George Clooney and NASA astronauts Buzz Aldrin, Thomas Stafford and Eugene Cernan will all be in town during the 2010 Winter Games, as well as U.S. president Barack Obama.
7 Pedestrian corridors along parts of Robson, Granville, Beatty, Hamilton and Mainland streets.

The massive Canada flag behind the Olympic Countdown Clock is a perfect photo opportunity. Photo by KK Law

8 The large inukshuk that sits in English Bay.
9 The love and appreciation for all things local and sustainable, including food, drink and even clothing.
10 Skiing and snowboarding on local mountains.
11 Stanley Park, one of the largest urban parks in the world.
12 Enjoying a hot drink while people-watching on South Granville, Robson Street or Granville Island.
13 The clean, crisp winter air.
14 Public art installations that make our city even more interesting than it already is.
15 Red and white everywhere. The Canadian Olympic Committee has invited local residents and businesses to proudly wear and display our national colours.