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Hot Dining: Restaurant Review: Santa Ana

Darek Wozny is doing something very right.

Without a days-in-advance reservation or last-minute dumb luck, getting a table inside the chef/owner’s Santa Ana Pizzeria & Bistro is a tall order.

Since opening September 2010, the 40-seat restaurant south of St Vital Centre has earned a fierce following.

Generous portions, dozens of expected and unexpected pizza toppings (47-plus toppings including three kinds of bacon and 11 cheeses), great wine prices and out-of-the-box dishes keep the restaurant and catering company hustling seven days a week. (The restaurant closes Sundays for private parties.)

Inside the slick, steel grey and black interior, guests are greeted by a blast of aromatic garlic, baking pizzas and that familiar woody smokiness of a hard-working fireplace.

Indeed, wood-fired and stone-baked pizzas, and wood-fired pasta are the centrepiece on the menu. (Most meals are cooked in the wood-fired oven.)

Wood-fired pizzas have thinner, crispier crusts and fewer toppings while stone-baked pizzas are thicker, loaded up and prepared in a traditional pizza oven. Pizzas can be ordered either way.

The pollo pizza—topped with rosemary chicken, pancetta, wild mushrooms and arugula—had full-bodied, smoky flavour.

All pastas are made to order, parboiled on the stovetop and, surprisingly, finished al dente in the wood-fire oven. A meaty manicotti was a hearty, cheese-laden and tomato-rich meal and a half with unexpected fennel notes. Tortellini purses romance the senses with sweet, creamy ricotta filling. It is then tossed in bright and fragrant pesto sauce and topped with parmesan.

Meanwhile, a healthy plateful of crispy artichoke hearts was a great departure from usual starter options. Readied in extra virgin olive oil, flour and parsley, the tart bites were lightly pan fried and tossed with parmesan and sweet roasted red peppers.

The wood-fired Sicilian sausage with the signature La Bomba sauce is a fire-seeker’s delight. Piled high, Italian sausage slices are tossed with a spicy eggplant, zucchini, artichoke, and roasted red pepper mince.

Santa Ana’s very affordable wine prices are worth a mention. Bottles range from $15 to $55, offering some great deals. Wozny, also the former owner of a local wine store, knows his vino. His maximum mark-up over Liquor Commission prices is $7, making a bottle within most diners’ grasp.

Service is fast, friendly and very competent. A mini-groceteria in the lobby is stocked with sauces, pestos, chutneys and pasta, among other specialty foods.

Good luck finding stomach space for dessert. A modest selection of gelatos, all by Eva’s Gelato, satisfied a sweet craving without busting a gut. Meanwhile, a large (11″) cinnamon-dusted, marshmallow, chocolate and graham wafer dessert pizza was more than two diners could face.

Santa Ana is open Mon-Thu 11 am-9 pm; Fri 11 am-10 pm and Sat 4 pm-10 pm.

St Vital
1631-F St Mary’s Rd.
(204) 415-1440
Entrées: $12-$22

Hot Dining: Friendly Italian

Image courtesy of Michael Kennedy

Piccolino is a neighbourhood gem that draws hungry diners from all over the city (and beyond). Known for being somewhat larger than life, this west-end eatery is always bustling, so expect noise, exuberance and scrumptious Italian food. The cannelloni, complete with house-made pasta, is always a good bet, but for something even heartier – and a bit messier – the Agnello alla Griglia is the way to go. It may sound complicated, but really, this grilled rack of lamb accented with rosemary and truffle oil is simple done right.

Hot Dining: Top Drops

Delectable food and wine pairings at Giovane Cafe. Photo by KK Law

Tucked into the Fairmont Pacific Rim, near the Vancouver Convention Centre, Giovane Cafe is handy for quick bites and great coffee. At night, though, the space transforms into a sophisticated wine bar with Italian cheeses and house-made meats, pizzas and, of course, wine. The list features more than 40 wines by the glass, including Barolos and Barbarescos, kept fresh by the state-of-the-art Enomatic system.—Tim Pawsey

More information:

GIOVANE CAFE $-$$. B/L/D (daily). Fairmont Pacific Rim, 1038 Canada Place. 604-695-5501. www.giovanecafe.com

Made in Alberta

Entice your taste buds with our famed regional cuisine: the best of home-grown beef and bison

BY JAN HOSTYN

Here in Alberta we’re slightly spoiled. Our summers are full of festivals, outdoor farmers’ markets and crazy and unpredictable weather. Once winter blows in we’re treated to even more festivals and farmers’ markets – warm indoor ones – and yet another helping of wild weather. Maybe the best part of calling Alberta home, though, is our proximity to some of the best beef in the world – Alberta beef, of course. And while we’re talking beef, we’ve got to include the equally stellar Alberta-raised bison. Stepping up to cook that beef and bison are a number of talented and innovative Edmonton chefs. These culinary wizards seek out the best of the best and then unleash their magic touch – with panache galore. Rest assured that whatever these chefs are whipping up with Alberta beef and bison, from simple to intricate, there’s always a bit of “wow” hovering nearby. This is truly a partnership to be savoured. Check out these Edmonton eateries that proudly – and oh-so-deliciously – serve Alberta beef and bison.

Image courtesy of Yang Gao

Lux Steakhouse + Bar
‘Lap of LUXury’
Yes, LUX is a steakhouse. But banish those old-fashioned steakhouse images that immediately pop into your head. Instead, think suave, sophisticated and downright dignified. Warmth and richness radiates throughout LUX and everything here, from the decor to the service to the food, exudes oomph. Because it is still a steakhouse, LUX does do steaks – killer steaks, in fact, cut from the very best Alberta beef. And nothing showcases the best of the best like LUX’s ‘Lap of LUXury.’ A tender grilled 24 ounce ribeye is truly the star on this loaded plate, but the sides are nothing short of extraordinary. Savour the steak, but do not ignore its plate- mates: decadently rich truffled lobster mac n’ cheese and creamy potatoes au gratin. And if that’s not extravagant enough, the ‘Lap of LUXury’ also comes with little pots of hollandaise and cabernet demi- glace. Pour them on whatever you want – with or without abandon. Just a warning, though: this dish is probably best shared. You’ll have no problem demolishing the house-made Bison Gyoza, though – you definitely won’t want to share that. Commerce Place, 10150-101 St., 780.424.0400.

Image courtesy of Michael Kennedy

Bistecca
The “Bistecca”
Yes, Bistecca is also a steakhouse but again, there’s nothing ordinary about it. The twist here – apart from the elegant surroundings, creative kitchen and thoughtful wine selection – is that this is an Italian steakhouse. What does that mean, exactly? Well, it means Bistecca, led by its passionate Corporate Executive Chef Sonny Sung, uses only the very best of ingredients. And, because those top-quality ingredients are already bursting with flavour, they’re treated simply and respectfully – with magnificent results. Two of those ingredients really shine: hormone and antibiotic free premium Alberta beef and Alberta bison. Bistecca means “beef steak” in Italian, and there’s no better way to experience the magic of this eatery than by digging into its namesake, The Bistecca. The kitchen takes a spectacular 14 ounce ribeye, brushes it with a herb-infused olive oil and then rubs it with sea salt and black pepper. A quick sear and grill and voila, The Bistecca. Simple? Perhaps. Stunning? Undoubtedly. And since it’s a privilege to share the plate with such a magnificent piece of beef, the sides change almost daily, but rest assured: they’re far from ordinary. Expect fabulous veggies and innovative creations such as red quinoa with gorgonzola and golden raisins. If you can’t set foot in an Italian restaurant without doing the pasta thing, try the Bison Cannelloni. Alberta bison, pasta and a wild mushroom cream sauce. 2345-111 St., 780-439-7335.

Image courtesy of Michael Kennedy

Creations
Country Style Bison Meatloaf
Stunning, impressive and downright gorgeous – that pretty much sums up this south-side dining room. As for the food, everything that comes out of this kitchen seems to have that extra bit of, well, something. Canadian cuisine is taken seriously here, and everything from homey to inspired makes an appearance. And of course, Alberta beef and bison are featured prominently. Lean Alberta bison takes a starring role in Creations’ Country Style Bison Meatloaf, and it just might be the perfect comfort food for a chilly Edmonton evening. Hints of garlic and herbs tease your tongue, but really, it’s the bison that steals the show. It’s lovely on its own, but when you scoop up some of the garlic mashed potatoes along with it and give everything a quick dip in the wild mushroom sauce, saying it’s phenomenal might not even do it justice. Although the menu changes frequently, something featuring Alberta beef or bison is sure to tempt you. Glazed Beef Ribs, anyone? 4235 Gateway Blvd. (in Sawridge Hotel), 780-989-4439.

Image courtesy of Michael Kennedy

The Keg Steakhouse & Bar – West End
Pecan Sirloin
Everyone knows The Keg – after all, this chain of restaurants is just about everywhere. So much so, in fact, that the Keg has practically evolved into THE steakhouse for many of us. And while each location has its own unique personality, one thing never changes: Kegs everywhere know exactly what do with a steak. And yes, if you pop into the west-end Keg, those steaks are cut from premium Alberta beef. When you walk through the door of a Keg, you know you’re in for one great steak. For great and exotic, though, you might want to order the Pecan Sirloin. This succulent 8 ounce sirloin is definitely dressed up to dazzle. Not only do the crushed pecans and bold barbeque sauce add layers of flavour, but the smattering of goat cheese gives it a luxuriously seductive richness. That’s not all, though. The finishing touch? A divine red wine herb au jus. For something a bit more traditional, try the Filet Mignon wrapped in applewood smoked bacon. Steak and bacon together on the same plate…need I say more? 9960-170 St., 780-414-1114.

Quirky and Cute: Coombs, British Columbia

Tucked away on Vancouver Island, north of Nanaimo off the Island Highway is Coombs, a place that’s become known for its signature rooftop of grazing goats. Under that roof is The Old Country Market, a quirky grocery store that offers a huge selection of breads and sweets made in their bakery, a cheese shop and imported foods that run the gamut from English licorice to bacon-flavoured mayonnaise a.k.a. Baconnaise.

Before you head to the Market to shop, have lunch at Cuckoo in Coombs Trattoria & Pizzeria. The Italian restaurant offers pasta and wood-stove pizza in a large space with wooden tables and rustic tablecloths (which you can buy next door in Zolena). If the weather is nice, sit out back on the patio under the plum trees. Just outside the restaurant is the greenery area with large pots and Chinese statues, shrubbery and small cacti. Nestled in amongst the plants is Zolena, a shop with wool blankets from New Zealand, Chinese silk bags and bangles from India. (more…)

Hot Shopping: Top-Notch Timekeeper

Versace watch from the Destiny Collection

On the hunt for a stunning piece of arm candy? Look no further than Versace’s new rainbow-coloured watch line, the Destiny Collection. Leave it to this Italian fashion house to take a Swiss-made timepiece, fill it with gems such as sapphires and emeralds, and adorn the face with mother-of-pearl and diamonds—telling time has never looked so sexy. Available at La Swiss .—Jennifer Patterson

Hot Dining: Sweet Tooth

Tempting desserts at Il Mercato.

Justifiably noted for its Northern Italian house specialties like pasta and pizza, Il Mercato on Spring Garden Road and at Sunnyside Mall also serves up head-turning desserts. House specialties include Zuccotto (alternating layers of genoise, straticiatelle and chocolate mousse, covered in chocolate ganache), fresh-fruit cheesecake, fruit tarts and gelato.

Hot Dining: Downtown Delights

Colourful dishes at Sala Thai. Photo by KK Law

Vancouver’s cultural diaspora provides an abundance of flavourful options. Wood-trimmed, artifact-laden Sala Thai (pictured) obliges with an extensive menu selection, from flower-shaped minced chicken and peanut-filled dumplings to peppery Tom Yum soup and a sweet-and-sour seafood platter. Nearby, Le Crocodile is a long-running, highly acclaimed French Alsatian stalwart where chef Michel Jacob blends classic and contemporary themes. All things Italian take centre stage—including the occasional live aria—at neighbouring Don Francesco, which also happens to sport one of the city’s best wild-game menus.—Tim Pawsey

Hot Dining: New in Town

Linguine ai frutti di mare with fresh mussels and clams at Via Veneto. Photo by KK Law

Gracious host Manlio Mocchi recently unveiled Via Veneto, an unpretentious Italian haunt. Fresh from the kitchen: Venetian-style Atlantic lobster, smoked-in-house duck carpaccio, pasta made daily and a seductively rich tiramisu. The food isn’t glitzy but rather polished and authentic fare, with well-chosen wines to match. From downtown it’s a quick ride on the Canada Line and a couple blocks west of Broadway-City Hall SkyTrain station.—Tim Pawsey

Hot Dining: Culinary Kits

Chef Pascal Georges of The Smoking Dog Bistro shows off the roasted duck with caramelized orange sauce and mini ratatouille. Photo by KK Law

Just across Burrard Bridge, ever-eclectic Kitsilano yields a range of tasty options. A favourite with locals, The Smoking Dog Bistro celebrates the return of original chef Pascal Georges with French classics such as mimosa salad, lobster bisque, goat cheese with portobello mushrooms and roast duck with caramelized orange sauce. Go early to secure a seat on the sidewalk patio. For family-style Italian with panache, head to Trattoria Italian Kitchen; for modern Greek, cross the street to Piato Estiatorio.—Tim Pawsey

2009 Where to Dine Awards

By Tim Pawsey// Photos by KK Law

With its rich diversity of year-round local ingredients, from fresh seafood to artisan cheeses, Vancouver has emerged as an international culinary destination. Every year, Where Vancouver surveys readers to find out just which dishes, settings and service left a lasting impression—tastes that linger in the memory well beyond the trip home. And, once again, our well-travelled voters proved the great dining we enjoy here is a vibrant and flavour-filled reflection of this all-embracing, multicultural community.

READERS’ CHOICE

Caprese salad and spicy Kobe meatballs, at Italian Kitchen

ITALIAN
Italian Kitchen
1037 Alberni St. 604-687-2858.
Upbeat ambience and down-to-earth flavours rule at this lively two-tier room that appeals as much for its bar scene as for its multiregional fare. Drop in for a mixed antipasto platter at the dazzling 18-m (60-ft) white marble long bar, and stay for veal scaloppine with Braseola, penne arrabbiata or crab-stuffed prawns, each matched with a vintage from the well-stocked, glass-walled cellar. Must have: the spicy Kobe meatballs.
Honourable Mentions
CinCin
Il Giardino Di Umberto

FRENCH
Le Crocodile
909 Burrard St. 604-669-4298.
A long-running Francophile favourite, Michel Jacob’s burgundy-and-mustard-toned room delivers authentic bistro fare, often with a nod to the chef’s hometown dining mecca of Strasbourg. Top tastes include tarte à l’oignon, foie gras terrine, grilled veal medallions, rack of lamb with mustard sabayon, and wild salmon with saffron velouté. Wines roam from Alsace to the Okanagan, while service, ever thorough, is always discreet. Best-kept secret: authentic Dover sole with beurre blanc.
Honourable Mentions
Lumière
Le Gavroche

OTHER EUROPEAN
Chambar Belgian Restaurant
562 Beatty St. 604-879-7119.
This popular pre- and post-show room continues to evolve, now with its own Chambar Ale, an always-busy private room and The Dirty Apron Cooking School. Settle in for slow-cooked lamb tagine with honey, figs, cinnamon and cilantro; moules frites Congolaise; or bison carpaccio drizzled in truffle oil. This art-festooned heritage room feels just like being in Brussels—minus the airfare. Inside scoop: the city’s best Belgian waffles at next-door sibling Cafe Medina.
Honourable Mentions
The William Tell Restaurant
Jagerhof Schnitzel House

CHINESE

Delectable dim sum at Kirin Mandarin Restaurant

Kirin Mandarin Restaurant
1166 Alberni St. 604-682-8833.
A soaring three-storey atrium welcomes diners to this downtown room, celebrated for its authentic Northern Chinese fare, including the renowned Peking duck, as well as fresh King crab and lobster plucked from live tanks. Regulars pack in for mid-day dim sum, while larger parties choose the affordable but inventive set menus. Top taste: roast suckling pig.
Honourable Mentions
Sun Sui Wah Seafood Restaurant
Wild Rice

JAPANESE
Tojo’s
1133 W. Broadway. 604-872-8050.
The man who kick-started Vancouver’s sushi craze—which shows no sign of letting up—was also the first sushi chef to feature West Coast, as opposed to imported, ingredients. Tojo’s celebrated cuisine is becoming increasingly sustainable. Must-have: the omakase, the ultimate Japanese experience, where the chef cooks what he wants for you.
Honourable Mentions
ShuRaku
Guu

OTHER ASIAN
Banana Leaf Malaysian Cuisine
1096 Denman St. 604-683-3333.
These cheerful and colourfully decorated affordable haunts celebrate the culinary crossroads of Straits cuisine. Laksa (the spicy Malaysian broth and seafood staple) is a mainstay but so too are Hainanese chicken, black cod in caramelized ginger sauce and rendang curried beef. Top tastes: the prix fixe for six, which adds up to a menu-wide sampler.
Honourable Mentions
Thai House
Phnom Penh Restaurant

INDIAN
Vij’s
1480 W. 11th Ave. 604-736-6664.
Vikram Vij, the man credited with bringing modern Indian cuisine to Canada, continues to dazzle with his unique and flavourful style. Go early to avoid the inevitable late-evening wait, and savour celebrated tastes such as curried organic chicken liver paté, mutton kebabs or spot prawns and halibut in coconut lemon curry. Don’t miss: the famous fenugreek-cream curried lamb “popsicles.”
Honourable Mentions
Maurya Indian Cuisine
Rangoli

Filet mignon with crab legs and asparagus, at The Keg Steakhouse and Bar

STEAK
The Keg Steakhouse and Bar
1011 Mainland St. 604-633-2534.
Legendary for consistency and value, The Keg—which has its roots in Vancouver—continues to impress. Go for the New York strip; the baseball top sirloin with shrimp, scallops and Béarnaise; and the lively bar scene. Granville Island, Thurlow near Robson and Yaletown (with its tiered fireplaces) are all popular locations. Don’t miss: sirloin topped with Dungeness crab.
Honourable Mentions
Gotham Steakhouse and Cocktail Bar
Hy’s Encore

SEAFOOD
Blue Water Cafe + Raw Bar
1095 Hamilton St. 604-688-8078.
East meets west at this Yaletown hotspot, where executive chef Frank Pabst focuses on less well-known sustainable species such as sardine and jellyfish, while sushi chef Yoshi Tabo presides over the raw bar. Highlights range from sablefish with miso sake glaze to coffee-and-ancho-braised Kobe-style short ribs, enjoyed in a heritage red-brick-and-beam setting. The lure: the seafood tower.
Honourable Mentions
The Boathouse Restaurant
Joe Fortes Seafood and Chop House

HOTEL DINING & BAR
Yew Restaurant
Four Seasons Hotel, 791 W. Georgia St. 604-692-4939.
The Four Seasons’ gorgeous wood-trimmed room lures the power crowd and celebrities, who come for inspired Pacific Northwest plates, served with flair in a dramatic setting. Want to make friends? Try the communal table. If you’re the exhibitionist type, book the all-glass semi-private room. Highlights range from seared halibut cheek with dashi broth to lobster chowder to roast duck with caramelized shallot tart. Insider scoop: one of downtown’s best coffees.
Honourable Mentions
Market by Jean-Georges
Bacchus Restaurant and Lounge

TAPAS/SMALL PLATE
Bin 941
941 Davie St. 604-683-1246.
Owner/chef Gord Martin’s diminutive haunt ignited a small-plates revolution that swept the continent. A loyal clientele still packs into the friendly room for well-presented plates such as beef tenderloin with grainy mustard masala sauce, and steamed Cortes Island mussels with chorizo and smoked tomato broth. Insider’s perch: a seat right at the bar, overlooking the stove, where you can watch the chefs at work.
Honourable Mentions
La Bodega Restaurante & Tapa Bar
Guu

PUB FARE
Pourhouse
162 Water St. 604-568-7022.
“Don’t call me a mixologist, I’m a bartender!” says Pourhouse co-owner Jay Jones, whose specialty is the Gold Fashioned. Sit at the handmade, 8-m (27-ft) bar for lighter plates, or settle into the gently formal dining lounge for Sloping Hill pork ’n’ beans, local halibut with shaved fennel, or roasted Fraser Valley chicken vol-au-vent. Don’t miss: the six-course chef’s table with wines to match.
Honourable Mentions
Doolin’s Irish Pub
Elephant & Castle Pub and Restaurant

BUDGET BITES
White Spot
580 W. Georgia St. 604-662-3066.
It can be challenging to have kids in tow when travelling, but these family-friendly rooms—which started out as a 1928 drive-in—have a history of serving nutritious, affordable fare. Traditional favourites such as beef dip, turkey dinners, clam chowder and the famous burger with Triple O sauce now share the menu with more eclectic tastes such as prawns tempura and chicken quesadilla. The hook: the Pirate Pak meal in a boat for kids.
Honourable Mentions
Vera’s Burger Shack
Cactus Club Cafe

WEST COAST
West
2881 Granville St. 604-738-8938.

Squid a la plancha with squid ink aioli, at WestWest2881 Granville St. 604-738-8938.

The fare at this definitive West Coast room, with its open kitchen and expansive bar, complements its clean and minimalist lines. The ingenious menu changes with the season, based on available, local ingredients such as Pemberton Meadows strip loin with espresso-scented celeriac purée or Queen Charlotte Island halibut with Read Island clam chowder. Insiders go for: the vegetarian tasting menu or the early-bird prix fixe.
Honourable Mentions
Coast Restaurant
Salmon House on the Hill
Raincity Grill

LAST COURSE
Thomas Haas Chocolates and Patisserie
2539 W. Broadway. 604-736-1848.
True truffle hounds head to these dessert outposts, one tucked away in an industrial corner of North Vancouver, the other next to good friend Daniel Boulud’s west side db Bistro Moderne. Make the trip for extraordinary chocolate morsels filled with every flavour imaginable, but also double-baked almond croissants and superb espresso—with chocolate sparkle cookies, of course. Don’t miss: the free samples of truffles given out most days.
Honourable Mentions
True Confections
Sweet Obsession Cakes and Pastries

CRITICS’ CHOICE

WHERE SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD AWARD
The Observatory
6400 Nancy Greene Way, North Vancouver. 604-998-4402.
It seems fitting that this mountaintop room, which lays the entire coastline of the Lower Mainland at your feet, should win Ocean Wise’s Sustainable Seafood Award for working so conscientiously to help preserve our marine species. Settle into your table at 1128 m (3,701 ft) to enjoy such local and sustainable tastes as house-smoked oysters, spring salmon lasagne and halibut with fingerling potatoes, all served against the dazzling backdrop of the city far below.

GREEN TABLE AWARD
Cactus Club Cafe
588 Burrard St. 604-682-0933.
“While some may have ‘greener’ menus, or more reclaimed wood tables,” says Green Table executive director André LaRivière, “as yet, no one but Cactus Club has established sustainable policies and practices across all of its 21 locations. Sustainability has become an essential part of the Cactus Club culture, and a measure of their success for its management and staff. We need many more restaurant groups to follow their lead.”

The Sustainable Seafood Award is presented to the restaurant that best exemplifies practices of sourcing, serving and promoting sustainable species, as outlined under the Ocean Wise Program. The conferring committee represents the BC Seafood Alliance, David Suzuki Foundation, Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre and Where Vancouver. The Green Table Award is conferred on a restaurant that promotes sustainability in food service at all levels of its operation, as determined by the organization’s executive.

Assorted chocolates, squares and truffles, at Thomas Haas Chocolates and Patisserie

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2009
Cibo Trattoria
Moda Hotel, 900 Seymour St. 604-602-9570.
Combine the best of Italian cuisine with soundly sourced West Coast ingredients and you have the foundation for Cibo Trattoria, a lively spot in the smartly restored Moda Hotel. Dishes may include agnolotti of suckling pig and veal, baked halibut with black trompette mushrooms, and roast ling cod with young asparagus—all paired with an astutely chosen wine list of Italian and BC bottles. Don’t miss: Uva Wine Bar and Red Card Sports Bar + Eatery, both right next door.

Other Notable Newcomers
Au Petit Chavignol
Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie
Cafe Barcelona
The Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe
db Bistro Moderne
Lumière
Judas Goat Taberna
La Brasserie
Lupo Restaurant & Vinoteca
Market by Jean-Georges
Maenam
Miku
Mis Trucos
Nook Restaurant
Oru
Voya Restaurant and Lounge

BIRKS SILVER SERVICE AWARD
Coast Restaurant
1054 Alberni St. 604-685-5010.
This dazzling new space—with its circular bar and hip O Lounge—is more than just a pretty face. Nobody knows (or hears) more about the overall guest experience than Vancouver’s concierge community, which honours this buzz-worthy room with its coveted Birks Silver Service Award. On the menu: everything from fish ’n’ chips to Dungeness crab cakes to line-caught chum salmon, all served with a fine melange of polish and pizzazz.

EDITOR’S CHOICE
Il Giardino di Umberto
1382 Hornby St. 604-669-2422.
Since 1973, Umberto Menghi has helped set the pace for Italian dining in Vancouver. Today the “little yellow house,” with its cozy, multi-tiered, terracotta interior, still lures the glitterati with its romantic surroundings and power-lunch scene. Few settings can compare to the vine-wrapped, well-concealed terrace for a lingering summer meal, truly an oasis in the heart of the city. Wow factor: succulent, tender osso buco with 2006 Sassicaia.

TOP DROPS

Lesser-known BC wines from smaller producers can be hard to find but are often available at either VQA or private wine stores. What to look for? Any on this list would be a welcome addition to any cellar.

Cassini Cellars Chardonnay
Fairview Cellars The Bear
Foxtrot Pinot Noir
La Frenz Shiraz
Laughing Stock Portfolio
JoieFarm Riesling
Poplar Grove Syrah
Quinta Ferreira Obra-Prima
Stoneboat Vineyards Pinot Noir
Twisted Tree Six Vines

Hot Dining: Tasteful Renaissance

The gallery-like interior of Lupo Restaurant and Vinoteca. Photo by KK Law

Newly minted Lupo, housed in a remodelled 19th-century home, is a gentle reinvention of Villa del Lupo, its celebrated predecessor. Lupo 2.0 sports a more stylish feel but also retains classic features such as the open fireplace. On the menu: well-priced mains, such as succulent roast chicken or perfectly grilled lamb chops with caponata, plus a wealth of contorni (small plates). Perfect for a pre-show bite, the historic home is handy to the Queen Elizabeth Theatre and BC Place Stadium.—Tim Pawsey

Hot Dining: Mussel In

Linguine pescatore at Don Francesco Ristorante. Photo by KK Law

An abundance of BC shellfish delivers fresh mussels, scallops, clams and oysters to Vancouver kitchens year-round. Downtown’s unabashedly romantic Don Francesco Ristorante (pictured) offers classic Italian plates such as seafood linguine with mussels and prawns—while your other catch may be a quick aria from host Francesco Alongi. Want to see how the flavours of oysters vary? For a tasteful tour of the coast, visit Joe Fortes or Monk McQueens. Or check out Pair Bistro for swimming scallops—a well-kept secret, in their pretty pink shells—which yield succulent, slightly sweet flesh.—Tim Pawsey

Hot Dining: Tastes of Yaletown

Black-and-blue ahi tuna at Hamilton Street Grill. Photo by KK Law

The city’s thriving, rejuvenated warehouse district, where former loading bays now serve as lively patios, boasts a cornucopia of flavours. Unpretentious Hamilton Street Grill delivers homey but polished faves such as hanger steak and gingerbread pudding in a cozy and comfortable setting. Pino Posteraro’s dynamic Cioppino’s boasts a bustling open kitchen, from which the star chef frequently emerges to visit with his customers. Luxuriously appointed La Terrazza lures with a private cellar room, while those seeking more traditional Italian fare head for nearby Amarcord. Laidback Yaletown Brewing Co. serves its own well-crafted ales, Asian-lovers find Charm Modern Thai lives up to its name in style, and Francophiles feast on pissaladiere and bouillabaisse at Provence Marinaside, or on moules frites and butter-roasted sablefish at The Opus Hotel’s classic bistro-styled Elixir Restaurant. The neighbourhood’s most unusual room? Fun, casual and eclectic Society, which celebrates the resurgence of comfort food.—Tim Pawsey

February Editor’s Picks: Dining

Buca's industrial-chic interior (photo by Jessica Napier).

1. The rustic Italian heavyweights of Toronto’s dining scene have a new challenger in Buca, a supremely hip yet still homey restaurant that recently opened on King Street West. Brainchild of the owners of similarly stylish steakhouse Jacobs & Co., the industrial-chic space—exposed brick, iron girders, bare light bulbs—suggests tastes both modern and timeless, ably reflected in the daily menu of Italophilic fare conjured by Mark McEwan protégé Rob Gentile. The chef’s authentic offerings are priced in the $12 to $39 range, and could include fresh pastas like veal cappelletti or duck egg tagliatelle, authentically adorned thin-crust pizzas, and, in acquiescence to a growing trend, a variety of flavourful house-cured meats.

Sweet and sour pork at Zin.

2. The words “fine dining” and “Chinese food” are not always synonymous, but they mesh handsomely in Yorkville, where Zin recently took up residence in a turn-of-the-century home. Aiming for upscale, attentive servers proffer delicately plated dishes that add a French inflection to Cantonese cuisine. A smattering of traditional dim sum options (all $4) such as har gow and spring rolls lead into exemplary mains, from Peking Duck ($48) and slow-baked Ontario squab ($28) to sweet-and-sour pork ($14) and two pounds of lobster cooked any way you like ($42).

Prime restaurant

3. Frightful February weather shouldn’t keep you from a fresh and filling meal. You may find these restos are but an elevator ride away.

>> A mélange of classic dishes and seasonal, locally sourced fare comprises a culinary cornucopia at Annona, aptly named for the Roman goddess of harvest.

>> Yorkville’s One dishes out decadence courtesy of star chef Mark McEwan in a swank room adorned with smoked glass, cowhide leather and tiger-eye onyx.

>> Only top-quality cuts—like Kobe beef striploin ($115)—are served at modern steakhouse Prime. On Sundays, the prime rib dinner ($40) is a meaty value.

>> At Senses, chef Patrick Lin mixes French and Asian inspirations in such entrees as a crispy duck breast ($29) and a trio of crab with tartar sauce and black bean vinaigrette ($27).

>> A mountain-, forest- and ocean-inspired interior reflects the Canadian cuisine—such as birch syrup–glazed arctic char and foie gras ($34)—at Tundra.

Wherelist: Best New Restaurants 2009

Where editors from across the country have cast their ballots for the Best New Restaurants to open in Canada in 2009. From creative twists on traditional cuisines to stylish décors and high quality food for reasonable prices, these are the eateries you won’t want to miss from coast to coast.

Veneto Tapa Lounge, Victoria

Victoria’s best new restaurant takes traditional tapas to a whole new level. Led by chef Tod Bosence, the sophisticated, urban Veneto Tapa Lounge offers both a hip bar area and quieter dining room, ideal for enjoying Bosence’s creative dinner menu. Each entree is presented tapas style – those in the mood for beef, for example, will enjoy it three ways: veal ravioli with portabella mushroom ragout and roasted garlic cream sauce; marinated short rib with parmesan polenta cake; and New York strip roulade with spicy lobster stuffing and bordelaise sauce.

Cibo Trattoria, Vancouver

With London’s River Café alumnus Neil Taylor heading up the kitchen and ex-Lumiere general manager/sommelier Sebastien Le Goff in charge, it didn’t take long for Cibo to gain a solid reputation for its vibrant rustic Italian cuisine, thoroughly grounded in West Coast ingredients. Taylor’s dishes, which change by the week (if not the day), are constructed with uncomplicated—but wickedly exacting—flair.

Parker House Grill & Wine Bar, Calgary

Parker House is the kind of place where diners can experience high quality service, ambience and food, for a reasonable price tag. Chef Andrew Keen, known for his excellence in “forgotten fare,” has created a menu inspired by traditional New England comfort dishes with creative twists. For dinner, most entrees (with the exception of their steaks) sit in the mid-twenties range, while diners on a budget can try one of their thin-crust pizzas for as low as $12.88.

Creations Dining Room & Lounge, Sawridge Inn Edmonton South, Edmonton

Artful, delicious dining at Creations—the paint’s barely dry and the buzz is on for the eclectic Canadian fusion cuisine of Creations, the stunning new dining room and lounge in the atrium of the Sawridge Inn Edmonton South. Walls of fire, water, badlands hoodoos and a huge dreamcatcher treat the senses as menu items entice patrons to explore palate pleasers such as Sherried Beef Caprese.

Rustica Steakhouse, Canadian Rockies

Rustic has earned its place as one of the Canadian Rockies’ top restaurants for its elegant ‘mountain lodge’ atmosphere and uncompromising dedication to Canada Prime Beef. But it’s the cuisine of Caribbean-born Chef Stefan Mahon that keeps them coming back for more. Only the top 0.3% of beef in Canada earns Prime designation (a superior grade to AAA)—Stefan’s New York cuts, grand filet mignon and prime rib chops are prepared with a signature dry rub, seared under a 1500°F (815°C) broiler and presented on 500°F (260°C) plates with garlic butter.

Hermanos, Winnipeg

Winnipeggers are feeling the Latin heat thanks to the fiery flavours of South American cuisine at this year’s arrival of Hermanos Restaurant and Wine Bar. Set in a 5,500-square-foot warehouse in the Exchange District, fast lunches, tapas and mains are found on the mainly Argentinean- and Brazilian-influenced menu. The crispy fried empanadas are a must-try.

Raw Aura, Mississauga

Raw Aura, true to its name, offers a menu of entirely raw cuisine—the better to emphasize the natural and nourishing properties of fruit, vegetables, nuts, seeds and sprouts. In an intimate yet airy space, friendly staff dish out delectably fresh fare including a “peace wrap” bursting with avocado, tomatoes, carrots, kale, sprouts and hummus, and zesty lo-mein featuring noodles made of zucchini and golden beets.

Loire, Toronto

Loire, a self-described “casual gourmet” spot, well-situated along increasingly foodie-friendly Harbord Street offers fresh, seasonal dishes that could include chili- and cornmeal-crusted Lake Erie whitefish, grilled New York striploin and a succulent beef or lamb burger on challah bread. This intimate restaurant effortlessly straddles the line between relaxed neighbourhood fave and boldface fine-dining destination.

Teca, Muskoka

Overlooking Lake Rosseau is Teca, a fine Italian restaurant located within the luxurious Rosseau Resort & Spa. Surrounded by the natural beauty of the Muskoka Lakes, find this decidedly urban dining room and a centrally located open kitchen that dishes up authentic rustic Italian fare. Tuck into freshly made pasta—from papperdelle and gnocchi to spaghetti and meatballs—or thin crust pizza made in a wood-stone oven, as well as veal chops, fish, striploin and rack of lamb.

The Grand Pizzeria & Bar, Ottawa

Nestled on one of the most auspicious corners in Ottawa’s bustling ByWard Market, The Grand Pizzeria is a popular addition to the downtown dining scene. Built in the late 17th century, this enviable location once housed The Grand Hotel. Today, it’s home to the perfect pizza pie. Traditional Italian appetizers (antipasti, salads) make way for the main attraction: authentic Napoletana pizza. The dough is created and hand-pressed by Master Pizzaiolo Pasqualino Oliveri, who placed first in the 2004 European Pizza Championship, among other honours.

Pipa Restaurant & Bar, Halifax

Chef Luis Gaspar and partner Victoria Dunham Gaspar are longtime veterans of Halifax’s dining scene. And when they decided to embark on a project all their own, they saw a glaring omission in the city’s dining scene. Specializing in Portuguese cuisine, with rich, filling and full-flavoured dishes. Pipa is the only restaurant of its type in Halifax, specializing in Old World and Brazilian dishes such as Moqueca (fish stew) and Feijoada (a stew of meats and black beans). Seafood dishes abound, including fresh grilled sardines.

Hot Dining: Robson Bites

Fraser Valley duck breast at Il Nido. Photo by KK Law

Explore the city’s busiest shopping street to discover a variety of hidden eats. Aptly named Il Nido—meaning “the nest,” tucked away in a courtyard behind Robson at Thurlow—serves contemporary Italian dishes such as eight-spice marinated duck breast with mushroom-caramelized light espresso sauce (pictured), and pan-seared cod with saffron cream sauce. Fuel up on more casual fare at upstairs Zefferelli’s Spaghetti Joint; make a quick stop for a bowl of ramen or gyoza at Ezogiku Noodle Cafe; or head west past Denman to enjoy regional tastes at long-time small-plates specialist Tapastree.—Tim Pawsey

Hot Dining: 5 Tasteful Italians

Pino Posteraro shows off the heirloom tomato and Dungeness crab salad at Cioppino's. Photo by KK Law

In a city blessed with great dining, Vancouver truly has an abbondanza of Italian choice.
1 Cioppino’s Pino Posteraro’s sumptuous room is a fave with locals and visiting stars alike, especially for osso buco alla Milanese or the namesake spicy seafood medley.
2 Al Porto Hidden away in Gastown, this warm and cozy room serves up a wealth of classic plates in a cellar-like setting.
3 Q4 This West Side destination is a favourite for its polished, rustic, candlelit decor and shared plates of Cornish game hen and legendary spicy spaghetti.
4 La Terrazza Discover elegance and romance personified, along with a striking private wine room and cellar and specialties of Dungeness crab risotto and grilled bison rib-eye.
5 L’Altro Buca This oasis on a quiet side street in the West End serves firmly flavoured traditional fare such as puttanesca and porchetta, with well-chosen wines to match.—Tim Pawsey

You Are Here: Alberni Street

One block of Alberni offers upscale designer stores along with world-class restaurants for discerning diners

By Leszek Apouchtine

A PASSION FOR FASHION

Find timeless fashions at Brooks Brothers. Photo courtesy Brooks Brothers

Women can find an outfit that’s fun and frilly or sleek and sensuous at Betsey Johnson. Men can dress like a president or check out the more casual options at the classic American chain Brooks Brothers (pictured). Find something to slip on underneath those new clothes at Calvin Klein Underwear, where sexy meets comfortable.

GLAM IT UP
Even if you don’t have a few thousand dollars to spend on a purse, it’s worth stopping in Hermès to ogle the luscious leather goods, covetable scarves and other luxurious accessories. For a dazzlingly elegant collection of jewellery featuring “a girl’s best friend,” make sure to visit Tiffany & Co. Other must-shop destinations for the best accessories include Mephisto Shoes and Louis Vuitton.

The Oyster & Chowder Bar is the focal point of Coast, seating 24 people

The Oyster & Chowder Bar at Coast Restaurant. Photo by KK Law

FLAVOURS FROM LAND AND SEA
With an open-concept kitchen, floor-to-ceiling windows and modern Italian cooking, Italian Kitchen delights all the senses. Meat lovers can satisfy cravings at Saltlik Steakhouse or be awed by talented teppanyaki chefs at Kobe Japanese Steak House. For a taste of the West Coast, dine on mussels and other fresh seafood at Coast Restaurant (pictured).

June Editor’s Picks: Dining

Ultra (photo by Device 222).

1. One of Toronto’s swankiest dining and nightlife destination just got even more posh. Along the see-and-be-seen strip of Queen Street West, Ultra recently unveiled a new Munge Leung–designed interior that melds candlelit intimacy with cheeky features like a 15-foot-high wall of giant rooster photos and a communal table fashioned by edgy local firm Castor. The menu has been overhauled, too. While steaks ($28 to $45)—a supper club staple with varied accompaniments—remain, chef Chris Zielinski also serves up eastern-inspired small plates such as hoisin-ginger salmon with pineapple-coriander jus ($20) and half-baked lobster with avocado salad and chipotle hollandaise ($19). Don’t forget your dancing shoes—top-tier DJs spin late four nights a week.

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