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Hot Entertainment: Kurt Browning Directs the Stars on Ice Canada Tour

Canadian skater Kurt Browning is the choreographer of this year's Stars on Ice Canada tour

He’s been skating with Stars on Ice Canada (May 18 at Rogers Arena) since it began 21 years ago, and now Kurt Browning (pictured) is finally in the driver’s seat. This year marks his first as show director, leading an all-star line-up that includes recently minted World Champion ice dancers Tessa Virtue and Scott Moir. Browning, himself a four-time World Champion and the first skater ever to land a quadruple jump in competition, says he’s excited to end the tour in Vancouver, where he once hiked Grouse Mountain. “If I didn’t think my 45-year-old legs would hate me during the show, I would do it again!” —Kristina Urquhart

Red Bull Divide and Conquer Race

Photo by Christian Pondella courtesy Red Bull Content Pool

Get ready to run, bike and paddle your way to glory in the Red Bull Divide and Conquer, a new multi-disciplinary endurance race taking place Jun. 16 on the North Shore. Teams of three cover 70+ km (43+ mi) by mountain running and mountain biking on Grouse Mountain and whitewater kayaking on the Capilano River. Don’t delay: registration is only open until May 15 (or whenever all 100 team spots are full), and this scenic race is sure to be popular with adrenaline junkies and weekend warriors alike.—Sheri Radford

Hot Dining: Five Greenest Tables

Sous-vide duck breast with balsamic reduction and mandarin-and-toasted-almond green salad, at Trafalgars. Photo by KK Law

Socially conscious diners find no shortage of eco-friendly options.
1 Laidback Trafalgars (pictured), a tasteful West Side bistro, along with its bakery sibling, Sweet Obsession, has almost completely eliminated garbage with a revolutionary in-house composter that makes garden-ready compost in just 24 hours.
2 More than just a pretty place, the upbeat Cactus Club Cafe chain employs sustainable policies across the board, from sourcing local ingredients to waste-water reduction.
3 The Observatory and more casual Altitudes Bistro, atop Grouse Mountain, use power from the resort’s own wind turbine and observation tower, the Eye of the Wind.
4 O’Doul’s Restaurant & Bar adheres to Green Table, Ocean Wise and Get Local programs that put ethically raised local ingredients and carbon-neutral practices first.
5 The grandfather of regional seasonal cuisine for 27 years, Bishop’s continues to offer almost all organic, understated plates, delivered in an intimate, art-filled setting.—Tim Pawsey

The Great Outdoors

Grab a paddle, lace those hiking boots and ready that fishing pole: Where‘s headed to the North Shore

By Jennifer Patterson

Meghan and Mat glide through the water in brightly coloured rentals from Deep Cove Canoe & Kayak. Photo by KK Law

Get Wet

Water babies feel right at home in picturesque Deep Cove, a short drive from downtown Vancouver and a haven for water sports enthusiasts. Rent a kayak at Deep Cove Canoe & Kayak and glide through the water, up picturesque Indian Arm, to Granite Falls. This photogenic park offers camping spots for multi-day trips. A growing trend with both celebs and weekend warriors: paddle boarding. Stand upright on a long, flat, surf-style board and use a long paddle to manoeuvre through the calm waterways.

Grab a fishing pole and head into the Lower Seymour Conservation Reserve for some peaceful trout fishing around Rice Lake. The main dock is usually busy but the three-km- (1.8-mi-) long path around the lake is filled with hidden benches and quiet corners.

Learn about the culture and history of the Coast Salish First Nations on a guided canoe trip through Indian Arm with Takaya Tours. The traditional wood canoes are 7.6 m (25 ft) in length and tours can be customized to include drumming, songs and stories. End your day on the water with a grilled salmon feast, available by request.

Stay Dry

Landlubbers seeking an outdoor escape head north of downtown to kick up dirt on the tree-covered mountains. The 48-km- (30-mi-) long Baden-Powell Trail, a winding stretch through the North Shore Mountains, starts in Horseshoe Bay and ends in Deep Cove. Don’t feel pressured to complete the entire route in one go—an ambitious venture, indeed—as the trail has multiple entry points and smaller trails branching off along the way. A couple of route highlights: the famous Grouse Grind, also known as Mother Nature’s StairMaster; the Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge; and Quarry Rock lookout in Deep Cove.

Those with a need for speed grab a mountain bike and burn rubber on backwoods trails. Mt. Seymour, Mt. Fromme and

Meghan and Mat make their way back from Quarry Rock viewpoint on a well-established trail. Photo by KK Law

Cypress Mountain offer paved, gravel and plank-covered paths ranging from relaxed cross-country to extreme downhill. If you’re a first timer looking for a little guidance, companies such as Endless Biking (page 64) can set you up with an instructor and guide.

If a city bike is more your style, 10 km (6 mi) of paved trails await on the car-free Seymour Valley Trailway. Do you have some energy to spare? Peddle the paved roads all the way to the top of both Cypress and Seymour.

Head a little further north, to the Stawamus Chief Park, for hard-core rock-climbing on the second largest granite monolith in the world (think sheer rock face with nowhere to go but up). If you prefer pounding the dirt to dangling from ropes, make your way up and through the mountains via trails, ladders and stairs to either the first, second or third peak. The climb is a bit challenging but the 360-degree views from the top make it well worth the sweat. Before heading back into Vancouver, visit neighbouring Shannon Falls, the third-highest waterfall in British Columbia.

Up in the Air

Challenge your fear of heights on the 137-m- (450-ft-) long Capilano Suspension Bridge, hanging 70 m (230 ft) above the rushing river. This popular attraction with both visitors and locals added a jaw-dropping new feature this year: the Cliffwalk, a cantilevered and suspended walkway that juts out of a granite cliff face. The faint of heart may balk at the glass-bottomed sections, which offer crystal-clear views of the canyon far below.

Feel the wind beneath your wings as you set flight from the top of Grouse Mountain on a tandem paragliding ride with an elevation drop of 1,000 m (3,300 ft). No experience is required but a sense of adventure is a must.

Gear for Here
Stock up on clothing and equipment, for outdoor adventures both big and small, at Mountain Equipment Co-op and the Arc’teryx Factory Store.

Canadian Tourism Commission Releases Signature Experiences Collection

Hopewell Rocks in the Bay of Fundy, New Brunswick, Canada. (By Benson Kua)

Ever been asked what are must-see spots by friends visiting from abroad and drawn a blank, or thought about taking a trip to another province but not known what’s on offer besides a city stop? The Canadian Tourism Commission has released their Signature Experiences Collection. The federally funded program has released an initial list of 48 (undoable in 48 hours, so don’t get any ideas of a Guinness-worthy task) attractions to see, spanning east to west. Aimed at high-end tourists from Europe and Australia, they’re not exactly the waterfalls and whale watching your parents took you on when you were kids.

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Vancouver Life: Sacred Sites

New Zealand’s Sacred Hill Winery (www.sacredhill.com) recently asked West Coasters to name the most sacred sites to enjoy a glass of wine. Raise your glass to the Vancouver winners: Stanley Park, Grouse Mountain, English Bay and anywhere with a view of the North Shore mountains.—Sheri Radford

Spanish Banks and the University Endowment Lands as seen from English Bay. Photo by KK Law

Hitting the Peaks

With winter activities galore, Vancouver’s snow-capped mountains offer more than just spectacular scenery

By Kristina Urquhart

Meghan and Mat take a break after a satisfying trek on Grouse Mountain’s snowshoe trails. Photo by KK Law

Grouse Mountain
One glance south from the top of Grouse Mountain and you’ll see why it’s one of Vancouver’s most photographed views. On a clear day, the city stretches out below you; on a foggy day, it looks as if you’re about to ski into the clouds. Skiers and snowboarders carve fresh powder through snow-dusted trees on the mountain’s 26 runs or practice tricks in two terrain parks. Get a different—but equally exhilarating—kind of adrenaline rush on the four groomed trails in the Munday Alpine Snowshoe Park, where you can attend clinics to learn to master this popular winter activity or embark on a fondue snowshoe tour. If you’re not quite tuckered out, take a two-hour tour on five ziplines or lounge in a Sno-Limo as an experienced guide pushes you down the mountainside. Make like Canadian figure skating darling Joannie Rochette and practice spins and turns on the 743-square-metre (8,000-square-foot) skating pond. Cap off your snow day with a picturesque sleigh ride through the mountain forests, then warm up with a hot chocolate by the fire in the Peak Chalet.

Cypress Mountain
This venue shot to fame last February when it hosted the freestyle skiing and snowboard competitions during the Vancouver 2010 Olympic Winter Games. The mega mountain is home to 53 runs (including four double black diamond), nine lifts and the North

A snowboarder on the half pipe at Cypress Mountain. Photo by Insight Photography courtesy Tourism BC

Shore’s tallest skiable peak at 1,646 metres (5,400 feet). Feeling gutsy? Unleash your inner Alexandre Bilodeau on the moguls run (gold medal not included). If you prefer Nordic over alpine, Cypress is the only mountain in Vancouver with cross-country ski trails. Get your heart pumping on 10 kilometres (six miles) of self-guided snowshoe trails or indulge in a snowshoe fondue tour. Tubing is fun for the whole family—there’s a separate sliding area nearby for tots aged three to five.

Mount Seymour
Snow bunnies hit the slopes at this alpine paradise, a favourite for its four terrain parks with features like jumps and rails. Ski or snowboard 39 runs of varying difficulty or traverse 10 kilometres (six miles) on the Discovery Snowshoe Trails on your own or with a guide. Fondue tours are offered here, too—inquire about the Valentine’s Day chocolate fondue snowshoe tour at 7 p.m. on Feb. 14. Kids and adults alike love zooming down the peak at high speeds, whether in the tube park or the eight-run Toboggan Park. If you haven’t packed your own toboggan, purchase a sliding carpet for a dizzying spin down the mountainside.

For more details on local mountains, click here. For information on Whistler Blackcomb, ask your concierge for a copy of Where Whistler or click here.

2009 Where to Dine Awards

By Tim Pawsey// Photos by KK Law

With its rich diversity of year-round local ingredients, from fresh seafood to artisan cheeses, Vancouver has emerged as an international culinary destination. Every year, Where Vancouver surveys readers to find out just which dishes, settings and service left a lasting impression—tastes that linger in the memory well beyond the trip home. And, once again, our well-travelled voters proved the great dining we enjoy here is a vibrant and flavour-filled reflection of this all-embracing, multicultural community.

READERS’ CHOICE

Caprese salad and spicy Kobe meatballs, at Italian Kitchen

ITALIAN
Italian Kitchen
1037 Alberni St. 604-687-2858.
Upbeat ambience and down-to-earth flavours rule at this lively two-tier room that appeals as much for its bar scene as for its multiregional fare. Drop in for a mixed antipasto platter at the dazzling 18-m (60-ft) white marble long bar, and stay for veal scaloppine with Braseola, penne arrabbiata or crab-stuffed prawns, each matched with a vintage from the well-stocked, glass-walled cellar. Must have: the spicy Kobe meatballs.
Honourable Mentions
CinCin
Il Giardino Di Umberto

FRENCH
Le Crocodile
909 Burrard St. 604-669-4298.
A long-running Francophile favourite, Michel Jacob’s burgundy-and-mustard-toned room delivers authentic bistro fare, often with a nod to the chef’s hometown dining mecca of Strasbourg. Top tastes include tarte à l’oignon, foie gras terrine, grilled veal medallions, rack of lamb with mustard sabayon, and wild salmon with saffron velouté. Wines roam from Alsace to the Okanagan, while service, ever thorough, is always discreet. Best-kept secret: authentic Dover sole with beurre blanc.
Honourable Mentions
Lumière
Le Gavroche

OTHER EUROPEAN
Chambar Belgian Restaurant
562 Beatty St. 604-879-7119.
This popular pre- and post-show room continues to evolve, now with its own Chambar Ale, an always-busy private room and The Dirty Apron Cooking School. Settle in for slow-cooked lamb tagine with honey, figs, cinnamon and cilantro; moules frites Congolaise; or bison carpaccio drizzled in truffle oil. This art-festooned heritage room feels just like being in Brussels—minus the airfare. Inside scoop: the city’s best Belgian waffles at next-door sibling Cafe Medina.
Honourable Mentions
The William Tell Restaurant
Jagerhof Schnitzel House

CHINESE

Delectable dim sum at Kirin Mandarin Restaurant

Kirin Mandarin Restaurant
1166 Alberni St. 604-682-8833.
A soaring three-storey atrium welcomes diners to this downtown room, celebrated for its authentic Northern Chinese fare, including the renowned Peking duck, as well as fresh King crab and lobster plucked from live tanks. Regulars pack in for mid-day dim sum, while larger parties choose the affordable but inventive set menus. Top taste: roast suckling pig.
Honourable Mentions
Sun Sui Wah Seafood Restaurant
Wild Rice

JAPANESE
Tojo’s
1133 W. Broadway. 604-872-8050.
The man who kick-started Vancouver’s sushi craze—which shows no sign of letting up—was also the first sushi chef to feature West Coast, as opposed to imported, ingredients. Tojo’s celebrated cuisine is becoming increasingly sustainable. Must-have: the omakase, the ultimate Japanese experience, where the chef cooks what he wants for you.
Honourable Mentions
ShuRaku
Guu

OTHER ASIAN
Banana Leaf Malaysian Cuisine
1096 Denman St. 604-683-3333.
These cheerful and colourfully decorated affordable haunts celebrate the culinary crossroads of Straits cuisine. Laksa (the spicy Malaysian broth and seafood staple) is a mainstay but so too are Hainanese chicken, black cod in caramelized ginger sauce and rendang curried beef. Top tastes: the prix fixe for six, which adds up to a menu-wide sampler.
Honourable Mentions
Thai House
Phnom Penh Restaurant

INDIAN
Vij’s
1480 W. 11th Ave. 604-736-6664.
Vikram Vij, the man credited with bringing modern Indian cuisine to Canada, continues to dazzle with his unique and flavourful style. Go early to avoid the inevitable late-evening wait, and savour celebrated tastes such as curried organic chicken liver paté, mutton kebabs or spot prawns and halibut in coconut lemon curry. Don’t miss: the famous fenugreek-cream curried lamb “popsicles.”
Honourable Mentions
Maurya Indian Cuisine
Rangoli

Filet mignon with crab legs and asparagus, at The Keg Steakhouse and Bar

STEAK
The Keg Steakhouse and Bar
1011 Mainland St. 604-633-2534.
Legendary for consistency and value, The Keg—which has its roots in Vancouver—continues to impress. Go for the New York strip; the baseball top sirloin with shrimp, scallops and Béarnaise; and the lively bar scene. Granville Island, Thurlow near Robson and Yaletown (with its tiered fireplaces) are all popular locations. Don’t miss: sirloin topped with Dungeness crab.
Honourable Mentions
Gotham Steakhouse and Cocktail Bar
Hy’s Encore

SEAFOOD
Blue Water Cafe + Raw Bar
1095 Hamilton St. 604-688-8078.
East meets west at this Yaletown hotspot, where executive chef Frank Pabst focuses on less well-known sustainable species such as sardine and jellyfish, while sushi chef Yoshi Tabo presides over the raw bar. Highlights range from sablefish with miso sake glaze to coffee-and-ancho-braised Kobe-style short ribs, enjoyed in a heritage red-brick-and-beam setting. The lure: the seafood tower.
Honourable Mentions
The Boathouse Restaurant
Joe Fortes Seafood and Chop House

HOTEL DINING & BAR
Yew Restaurant
Four Seasons Hotel, 791 W. Georgia St. 604-692-4939.
The Four Seasons’ gorgeous wood-trimmed room lures the power crowd and celebrities, who come for inspired Pacific Northwest plates, served with flair in a dramatic setting. Want to make friends? Try the communal table. If you’re the exhibitionist type, book the all-glass semi-private room. Highlights range from seared halibut cheek with dashi broth to lobster chowder to roast duck with caramelized shallot tart. Insider scoop: one of downtown’s best coffees.
Honourable Mentions
Market by Jean-Georges
Bacchus Restaurant and Lounge

TAPAS/SMALL PLATE
Bin 941
941 Davie St. 604-683-1246.
Owner/chef Gord Martin’s diminutive haunt ignited a small-plates revolution that swept the continent. A loyal clientele still packs into the friendly room for well-presented plates such as beef tenderloin with grainy mustard masala sauce, and steamed Cortes Island mussels with chorizo and smoked tomato broth. Insider’s perch: a seat right at the bar, overlooking the stove, where you can watch the chefs at work.
Honourable Mentions
La Bodega Restaurante & Tapa Bar
Guu

PUB FARE
Pourhouse
162 Water St. 604-568-7022.
“Don’t call me a mixologist, I’m a bartender!” says Pourhouse co-owner Jay Jones, whose specialty is the Gold Fashioned. Sit at the handmade, 8-m (27-ft) bar for lighter plates, or settle into the gently formal dining lounge for Sloping Hill pork ’n’ beans, local halibut with shaved fennel, or roasted Fraser Valley chicken vol-au-vent. Don’t miss: the six-course chef’s table with wines to match.
Honourable Mentions
Doolin’s Irish Pub
Elephant & Castle Pub and Restaurant

BUDGET BITES
White Spot
580 W. Georgia St. 604-662-3066.
It can be challenging to have kids in tow when travelling, but these family-friendly rooms—which started out as a 1928 drive-in—have a history of serving nutritious, affordable fare. Traditional favourites such as beef dip, turkey dinners, clam chowder and the famous burger with Triple O sauce now share the menu with more eclectic tastes such as prawns tempura and chicken quesadilla. The hook: the Pirate Pak meal in a boat for kids.
Honourable Mentions
Vera’s Burger Shack
Cactus Club Cafe

WEST COAST
West
2881 Granville St. 604-738-8938.

Squid a la plancha with squid ink aioli, at WestWest2881 Granville St. 604-738-8938.

The fare at this definitive West Coast room, with its open kitchen and expansive bar, complements its clean and minimalist lines. The ingenious menu changes with the season, based on available, local ingredients such as Pemberton Meadows strip loin with espresso-scented celeriac purée or Queen Charlotte Island halibut with Read Island clam chowder. Insiders go for: the vegetarian tasting menu or the early-bird prix fixe.
Honourable Mentions
Coast Restaurant
Salmon House on the Hill
Raincity Grill

LAST COURSE
Thomas Haas Chocolates and Patisserie
2539 W. Broadway. 604-736-1848.
True truffle hounds head to these dessert outposts, one tucked away in an industrial corner of North Vancouver, the other next to good friend Daniel Boulud’s west side db Bistro Moderne. Make the trip for extraordinary chocolate morsels filled with every flavour imaginable, but also double-baked almond croissants and superb espresso—with chocolate sparkle cookies, of course. Don’t miss: the free samples of truffles given out most days.
Honourable Mentions
True Confections
Sweet Obsession Cakes and Pastries

CRITICS’ CHOICE

WHERE SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD AWARD
The Observatory
6400 Nancy Greene Way, North Vancouver. 604-998-4402.
It seems fitting that this mountaintop room, which lays the entire coastline of the Lower Mainland at your feet, should win Ocean Wise’s Sustainable Seafood Award for working so conscientiously to help preserve our marine species. Settle into your table at 1128 m (3,701 ft) to enjoy such local and sustainable tastes as house-smoked oysters, spring salmon lasagne and halibut with fingerling potatoes, all served against the dazzling backdrop of the city far below.

GREEN TABLE AWARD
Cactus Club Cafe
588 Burrard St. 604-682-0933.
“While some may have ‘greener’ menus, or more reclaimed wood tables,” says Green Table executive director André LaRivière, “as yet, no one but Cactus Club has established sustainable policies and practices across all of its 21 locations. Sustainability has become an essential part of the Cactus Club culture, and a measure of their success for its management and staff. We need many more restaurant groups to follow their lead.”

The Sustainable Seafood Award is presented to the restaurant that best exemplifies practices of sourcing, serving and promoting sustainable species, as outlined under the Ocean Wise Program. The conferring committee represents the BC Seafood Alliance, David Suzuki Foundation, Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre and Where Vancouver. The Green Table Award is conferred on a restaurant that promotes sustainability in food service at all levels of its operation, as determined by the organization’s executive.

Assorted chocolates, squares and truffles, at Thomas Haas Chocolates and Patisserie

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2009
Cibo Trattoria
Moda Hotel, 900 Seymour St. 604-602-9570.
Combine the best of Italian cuisine with soundly sourced West Coast ingredients and you have the foundation for Cibo Trattoria, a lively spot in the smartly restored Moda Hotel. Dishes may include agnolotti of suckling pig and veal, baked halibut with black trompette mushrooms, and roast ling cod with young asparagus—all paired with an astutely chosen wine list of Italian and BC bottles. Don’t miss: Uva Wine Bar and Red Card Sports Bar + Eatery, both right next door.

Other Notable Newcomers
Au Petit Chavignol
Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie
Cafe Barcelona
The Corner Suite Bistro De Luxe
db Bistro Moderne
Lumière
Judas Goat Taberna
La Brasserie
Lupo Restaurant & Vinoteca
Market by Jean-Georges
Maenam
Miku
Mis Trucos
Nook Restaurant
Oru
Voya Restaurant and Lounge

BIRKS SILVER SERVICE AWARD
Coast Restaurant
1054 Alberni St. 604-685-5010.
This dazzling new space—with its circular bar and hip O Lounge—is more than just a pretty face. Nobody knows (or hears) more about the overall guest experience than Vancouver’s concierge community, which honours this buzz-worthy room with its coveted Birks Silver Service Award. On the menu: everything from fish ’n’ chips to Dungeness crab cakes to line-caught chum salmon, all served with a fine melange of polish and pizzazz.

EDITOR’S CHOICE
Il Giardino di Umberto
1382 Hornby St. 604-669-2422.
Since 1973, Umberto Menghi has helped set the pace for Italian dining in Vancouver. Today the “little yellow house,” with its cozy, multi-tiered, terracotta interior, still lures the glitterati with its romantic surroundings and power-lunch scene. Few settings can compare to the vine-wrapped, well-concealed terrace for a lingering summer meal, truly an oasis in the heart of the city. Wow factor: succulent, tender osso buco with 2006 Sassicaia.

TOP DROPS

Lesser-known BC wines from smaller producers can be hard to find but are often available at either VQA or private wine stores. What to look for? Any on this list would be a welcome addition to any cellar.

Cassini Cellars Chardonnay
Fairview Cellars The Bear
Foxtrot Pinot Noir
La Frenz Shiraz
Laughing Stock Portfolio
JoieFarm Riesling
Poplar Grove Syrah
Quinta Ferreira Obra-Prima
Stoneboat Vineyards Pinot Noir
Twisted Tree Six Vines

15 Things We Love About Vancouver: April

Vancouver's gorgeous cherry blossoms paint the sky pink. Photo by Tom Ryan courtesy Tourism BC

1 Cherry blossoms. Nothing says “springtime” quite like the cheerful pink blossoms.
2 Using our noodle…for a quick, cheap meal at the West End’s Kintaro Ramen, Legendary Noodle or Hon’s Wun-Tun House.
3 Rogers’ Chocolates, which celebrates its 125th anniversary this year. Chocolate lovers choose the irresistible Victoria Creams—with fillings ranging from coffee, ginger and orange to vanilla, strawberry and always-patriotic maple.
4 Walking or biking along the seawall on a blustery day.
5 The annual Chutzpah! Festival (to Apr. 8).
6 Sipping a hot cuppa coffee while perusing the designer shops along bustling Robson Street.
7 The Vancouver Symphony Orchestra.
8 Tasting the very best of British Columbia at Edible BC, including organic jam, wild pacific salmon and local honey.
9 Grinder and Coola, two orphaned bears who reside on Grouse Mountain. They usually come out of hibernation in April.
10 Lingering over dessert at Lupo.
11 The larger-than-life art installations located throughout the city during the Biennale.
12 South Granville Street—aka Gallery Row—for its never-ending selection of art galleries.

Eye-pleasing confections at Lupo Restaurant & Vinoteca. Photo by KK Law

13 Dim sum, or any quick-to-eat Chinese food, such as take-out barbecue pork, from Chinatown.
14 Cheering for the Vancouver Canucks.
15 The Richmond Olympic Oval, which reopens to the public this month. It was the official speed skating venue for the 2010 Winter Games.

Hot Dining: Panoramic Plates

The gorgeous view at Salmon House on the Hill. Photo by KK Law

Only in Vancouver can the food compete with the vista-kissed setting. At West Vancouver’s lofty Salmon House on the Hill (pictured), savour Coho salmon against a glittering backdrop of English Bay, downtown and beyond, a view shared by nearby regionally focused Fraîche. To sample the city’s highest kitchen, hop the Skyride to The Observatory atop Grouse Mountain. Or, in Burnaby, ascend to Horizons Restaurant for tasteful Northwest fare with views west and far below to Burrard Inlet. In search of less vertiginous fare? Watermark, right on the edge of Kits Beach, obliges, as does The Teahouse, a classic in Stanley Park. Downtown, call ahead for a harbourside table at West Coast devotee Five Sails Restaurant, or check in for casual fare at Coal Harbour’s Cardero’s, preceded by a pint in its waterfront pub. Tucked under the Granville Bridge, on False Creek’s north shore, contemporary Nu deals cutting-edge regional plates, while across the way on Granville Island, landmark Bridges combines waterfront pub with downstairs bistro and upstairs dining room, all with Burrard Bridge glimpses.—Tim Pawsey