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Hot Dining: Notable Newcomers

Sizzling steaks at Sidecut in Whistler

The regional editors of Where recently unveiled their list of 2010’s best new restaurants across Canada.

1. Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie – Vancouver, BC; 604-688-087; www.bao-bei.ca

2. Sidecut (pictured) – Whistler, BC; 604-966-5280; www.fourseasons.com

3. Prime Steakhouse and Lounge – Victoria, BC; 250-386-2010; www.primesteak.ca

4. Charcut Roast House – Calgary, AB; 403-984-2180; www.charcut.com

5. Zinc – Edmonton, AB; 780-392-2501; www.zincrestaurant.ca

6. Habitat Restaurant – Canmore, AB; 403-678-8880; www.granderockies.com/habitat

7. Segovia Tapas Bar and Restaurant – Winnipeg, MB; 204-477-6500; www.segoviatapasbar.com

8. Enoteca Sociale – Toronto, ON; 416-534-1200; www.sociale.ca

9. Taste, the Restaurant at Touchstone – Muskoka, ON; 705-764-5353; www.touchstoneonlakemuskoka.com/taste.html

10. Town – Ottawa, ON; 613-695-8696; www.townlovesyou.ca

11. Fujiyama – Halifax, NS; 902-492-1133; www.sushifujiyama.ca

Road Tripping

Discover the Canadian Rockies, a world-renowned tourist destination on Calgary’s doorstep

By Sally MacKinnon

From November to March, enjoy free public skating on Lake Louise.

The peaks of the Rocky Mountains tower over Calgary’s western horizon. Luckily, their proximity isn’t a mirage; Banff National Park is an hour’s drive from Calgary, and the town itself is only another 20 km.

The main draw of this region (apart from scenic views) is adventure sports. In winter, that means downhill skiing or snowboarding, which you can do at Nakiska, Mount Norquay, Sunshine Village, Lake Louise Mountain Resort, Marmot Basin and Kicking Horse Mountain Resort. But, there are also a range of activities for fans of other winter sports, from cross-country skiing to dog sledding, snowshoeing to snowmobiling, ice skating to ice fishing. And for hard core adventurers, there’s heli-skiing and ice climbing.

But, that doesn’t mean the Rockies’ only attractions are outdoors. The shops of Banff Avenue and Canmore’s Main Street offer unique wares, and the Banff Springs Hotel and Chateau Lake Louise—majestic, 19th-century CP hotels—offer boutique shopping, dining and stately corridors to wander. History buffs can head to the Cave & Basin National Historic Site, the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies, or the Canmore Museum & Geoscience Centre. And no visit is complete without a soak in their naturally heated mineral waters, which you can access at the Banff Upper Hot Springs.

Must-See Attractions

The outdoor whirlpool at the Fairmont Banff Springs, open to guests and spa patrons.

1. The Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel
This five-star hotel was built in 1888 in the Scottish Baronial style, making it a modern-day castle in the mountains. It is a magnet for both tourists and day-trippers, who can dine in its restaurants, wander through its corridors and banquet rooms, shop in its luxury boutiques, or take part in a guided walking tour.

2. Lake Louise
One of the most photographed locations in the Rockies, Lake Louise is a glacier-fed lake with a million dollar view. During the winter you can skate on a section of the lake, use the surrounding trails for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, or downhill ski at the Lake Louise Mountain Resort.

3. Columbia Icefield
Both Banff and Jasper National Parks share the Columbia Icefield, a 325-sq.-km mass of ice straddling the continental divide. This is the largest icefield in the Rockies, and nearly three quarters of Jasper’s highest peaks are within view. The icefield’s top attraction is the Athabasca Glacier, which you can access on a snow coach or guided walking tour.

Off the beaten path

The winter splendour of Maligne Canyon.

1. Maligne Canyon Icewalk
Jasper’s Maligne Canyon is a top summer attraction, but in winter the canyon is still a must-see. When the torrents of the Maligne River freeze, awe-inspiring columns of ice are created, some reaching 30 m high. Maligne Tours offers guided walks of this frozen wonderland, which you explore in ice cleats.

2. Kananaskis Country
K-Country has mountain peaks and tranquil valleys, but less human traffic than Banff or Jasper. It’s also located closer to Calgary, especially if you live in either the southwest or northwest. Highlights include Upper and Lower Kananaskis Lakes (featured in the movie Brokeback Mountain) and Kananaskis Village, which hosted the G8 Summit in 2002.

3. Caves, dogs and snowshoes
During the winter, downhill skiing reigns supreme in the Rockies. But there are also activities for non-skiers: you can explore the 4-km Rat’s Nest Cave system with Canmore Caverns, go dog sledding with a local outfitter, or rent snowshoes or cross-country skis and take on the trails at the Canmore Nordic Centre.

Before You Go…

• Dress in layers—you can peel off clothing as the temperature climbs, and you’ll trap warm pockets of air.
• Check the weather and road conditions. The highway between Lake Louise and Jasper, for example, is often closed due to winter storms.
• Have the right gear, including a first aid kit, maps and plenty of water. For backcountry excursions, consider taking a GPS personal tracking device.
• Tell someone where you’re going, and for how long—search parties are sent out when a person is reported missing.

Rocky Mountain Meats

Elk, a local specialty in Banff, Canmore and Jasper. Photograph courtesy CRMR.

If you want to eat like a local, you’ll have to find a restaurant that serves Alberta beef, bison or elk. Luckily, most eateries serve each of these meats and more. Here are five of our favourites:
• Cilantro, Tunnel Mountain Drive, Banff (reopens Dec 17)
• Elk & Oarsman, 2nd flr, 119 Banff Avenue, Banff
• Iron Goat Pub & Grille, 703 Benchlands Trail, Canmore
• Maple Leaf Grill & Lounge, 137 Banff Ave, Banff
• Sage Bistro, 1712 Bow Valley Trail, Canmore

Did you know?

Compared to other mountain ranges, the Rockies are toddlers. They started their rise 75 million years ago, when a collision happened between two plates in the earth’s crust. The Himalayas, in contrast, began their ascent 180 million years ago.

Soundly Crafted

Morgan Guitar

An apprentice of guitar maker Jean Larrivee for 25 years, Vancouver craftsman Dave Iannone now hand-builds his Morgan Guitars using Mexican cocobolo hardwood that produces “a great tone and unbelievable look.” Visit Harvest Moon Acoustics.—RM

Festival of Eagles

Golden Eagle, photo by Szmurlo

Experience the annual migration of the majestic Golden Eagle in Canmore October 16-17 during the Festival of Eagles. Join celebrations that include guided hikes, interpretive theatre, displays and guest speakers. Get close and personal with a golden eagle (without binoculars) during Colin Weir’s Alberta Birds of Prey exhibit. Evening speaker highlights include: Sid Marty for an evening of song, spoken word and storytelling (Oct 16; 7:30 pm; $15 at the door), and Karsten Heuer to hear what a decade of travel along the spine of the Rockies (Yellowstone to Yukon Hike), across Arctic tundra (Being Caribou) and east across Canada (Finding Farley) has taught this local wildlife biologist and his filmmaking wife Leanne Allison (Oct 17; 7:30 pm; $15 at the door). The Festival Pass ($20) is available at Café Books, as are advance tickets ($12) for Sid Marty or Karsten Heuer.

3-D Artistry

Glass Plant by Susan Gottselig

The Canmore Public Library Art Gallery hosts Off the Wall: CAAG’s Three-Dimensional Art Exhibition to Oct 20. View (and possibly purchase) the diverse works by 15 of the best 3-D local artists. So drop by to marvel at stunning glass sculptures by Susan Gottselig, handcrafted jewellery by Rudi Peet and functional and artistic pottery by John and Katie Borrowman from Of Cabbages and Kings, plus other impressive 3-D pieces by local artists.

All in the Family

Father and son at O Bistro

The phrase “like father like son” certainly applies to Olivier and Jean Gouin. Growing up, Olivier was influenced by the culinary prowess of his chef father Jean, owner of Chez François. Now, all grown up and with cooking skills of his own, Olivier has followed in his dad’s footsteps with the opening of his own French restaurant, O Bistro. Try the O Clubhouse—brie, grilled chicken, bacon and mixed greens layered on a croissant ($12), for a French take on this American classic.—RM

Canmore Legends

Photo by Colin Ferguson

Learn about the people who shaped Canmore during the Local Legends exhibit at the Canmore Museum. One compelling story is of John ‘Buck’ Kaleta (shown). Born in 1917, Buck’s career mirrored the town’s mining past. As a teenager he picked rock from coal and installed underground track for mine cars. After passing his miner’s exam, Buck shoveled coal into those cars for 30 years. In 1950 he moved above ground to work as a prospector studying outcrops for telltale signs of coal seams. Buck left mining in 1976, three years before Canmore’s last mine closed. —LS

Oh Canada Eh?

Joe Morris as French Canadian trapper Pierre

You might think representing Canada to thousands of international visitors would be stressful. But Oh Canada Eh? Dinner Show performer Joe Morris takes it all in stride. Personifying his country as the French Canadian trapper Pierre, Morris has been a show staple for six consecutive years. “My favourite song is Mon Pays,” notes Morris. “It is a tribute in French to the land, people, culture and climate; everything Canadian.”—RM

Roots of Music

Gadji-Gadjo perform gypsy folk at this year's Canmore Folk Festival

Each year, the quaint Canmore Folk Music Festival (August 1-3) charms me. As the longest running event of its kind in Alberta (going strong since 1978; originally from a flatbed truck stage), their family focus has never strayed. Grannies and toddlers grooving together is magic to behold. While I enjoy the main stage shows, I love watching the birth of new music during daytime impromptu concerts where musicians from different bands play together. Although I may not know all of the performers going in the festival, I always leave with new favourites.—LS

5 Best Places to Spot Wildlife

Wildlife of the Canadian Rockies: A Glimpse on the Wildside

Canmore author John Marriott has photographed animals since he was six years old—find his Wildlife of the Canadian Rockies: A Glimpse on the Wildside at local bookstores. His top picks for wildlife viewing are:

1 Lake Minnewanka Loop: Bighorn sheep (especially at the Lake) and elk

2 Bow Valley Parkway between Banff and Castle Mountain: Deer, coyotes, bighorn sheep and elk

3 Bow Valley Parkway between Castle Mountain and Lake Louise: Black and grizzly bears

4 Vermilion Lakes: Bald eagles, waterfowl, elk and coyotes. Try sightseeing by canoe

5 Icefields Parkway between Weeping Wall and Columbia Icefield: Mountain goats and bighorn sheep

Two Ways to Sightsee

GyPSy Guide

The scenic Canadian Rockies have knocked the socks off travellers since explorer David Thompson came here 200 years ago. Today, sightseers can choose a human-led or GPS-triggered tour. Brewster_Motorcoach

Traditional motorcoach and van excursions, where the driving is left to others, remain popular. “Our guides are locals who have conducted tours for over 30 years,” notes Joanna Buckingham of Brewster. “Their knowledge is vast and they love interacting with clients and sharing interesting stories.”

On the other hand, independent minded sightseers can rent a GyPSy Guide, an electronic device that provides GPS tours through the FM radio of their own vehicle. Commentary prepared by professional local guides automatically kicks-in at locations of interest. “It’s about flexibility,” says GyPSy’s Rick Bulich. “You’re not tied to a schedule, so you can move at your own pace.”—RM

The WHERE List: Canada’s Top Ten New Attractions for Summer 2009

From coast to coast Where Editors have chosen the best new or improved attractions in the country. From dramatic glass pyramids in the prairies to canopied aerial bridges in the rain forest to exploring the wonders of the ocean, these are attractions you won’t want to miss.

Shaw Ocean Discovery Centre – Victoria, British Columbia
At the new Shaw Ocean Discovery Centre, explore the wonders of the Salish Sea, the name given to the inside waters off Vancouver Island. Designed to appeal to all ages, visitors can chat with knowledgeable Oceaneers about the wonders of the ocean and enjoy “hands on/hands wet” experiences, surrounded by massive aquarium habitats showcasing hundreds of fish, invertebrates and marine plants.

Greenheart Canopy Walkway – Vancouver, British Columbia
Walking the nine aerial bridges of the Greenheart Canopy Walkway at UBC Botanical Garden is a unique experience; from high in the forest canopy, it’s possible to see unusual insects and birds. You don’t have to be a daredevil to enjoy this eco-attraction, which opened last year, but you can’t fear heights: the 308m (1,010ft) walkway tops out at more than 17.5m (57ft) off the ground.

Peak 2 Peak Gondola – Whistler, British Columbia
Whistler’s new $52-million Peak 2 Peak Gondola boasts the world’s longest unsupported lift span. State-of-the-art 28-person cabins travel a 4.4km (2.7mi), 11-minute journey between the two mountains, affording a spectacular view to all on-board.

Stoney Nakoda Resort – Morley, East of Canmore, Alberta
Nestled on the eastern edge of the Canadian Rockies, Stoney Nakoda Resort offers Vegas-style gaming while the 111-room hotel boasts an indoor waterpark and meeting facilities. Along with a restaurant, café and sports lounge, guests can also catch live entertainment and dinner shows.

Gasoline Alley Museum at Heritage Park Historical Village – Calgary, Alberta
In the last year, Heritage Park Historical Village has expanded their size from 66 acres to 127 acres, and added five new attractions, including the Gasoline Alley Museum. The museum is made up of a $5 million collection of restored vintage cars, gas pumps and paraphernalia.

The Muttart Conservatory – Edmonton, Alberta
Four glass pyramids in Edmonton’s lush river valley make up The Muttart Conservatory, home to a spectacular display of flowers and vegetation. Newly expanded and renovated for 2009–with more educational program space as well as a gift shop and cozy cafeteria–it’s a memorable destination for all ages.

The West End BIZ Mural Tours – Winnipeg, Manitoba
The West End BIZ Mural Tours’ stunning outdoor mural galleries tell visitors about the West End, one of Winnipeg’s oldest neighbourhoods. Stories about the area’s prominent people, culture and heritage are depicted, while tour guides share related facts and history.

Art Gallery of Ontario – Toronto, Ontario
The Art Gallery of Ontario has undergone a massive redesign by famed architect Frank Gehry completed in late 2008. An additional 97,000 square feet means striking visuals abound in both edifice and artwork: rooms devoted to the ambitious Thomson Collection–Canadian paintings, European objets d’art, First Nations works and much more.

Canada Aviation Museum – Ottawa, Ontario
When the Canada Aviation Museum opened at Ottawa’s Uplands Airport in 1960, it contained a small collection of aircraft owned by the Canadian government. Nearly 50 years later, it houses over 130 aircraft and artifacts celebrating aeronautical achievements. After some recent major renovations, the museum has emerged as one of the most esteemed institutions in Ottawa, and a major player on the world stage, even hosting the Genie Awards in April.

Murphy’s Cable Wharf – Halifax, Nova Scotia
Although Murphy’s has been a landmark on the Halifax waterfront for years, 2009 saw dramatic changes. The restaurant, store and tour operator is now known as Murphy’s Cable Wharf. The restaurant is now open year-round, and the $1.6-million facelift includes a catch-your-own lobster tank, an interpretive walkway along the wharf and a tank showcasing local marine life.