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Road Trip: Vancouver Island Coastal Drive, From Victoria to Tofino

Photo James Wheeler

By Tim Johnson

A place where the mountains meet the sea, Vancouver Island’s beauty is known the world over. At times wild and untamed, the Island can be equally refined and sophisticated as well as quirky and interesting. Traversing the two-lanes that link British Columbia’s capital with its best-known surf town is a pleasurable experience—especially if you make time for lots of stops along the way.

Modes of Transportation

Travelling from south to north is the best way to tackle this drive. You can steer your own car onto a ship operated by BC Ferries and sail onto the Saanich Peninsula near Sidney, or fly into the Victoria International Airport—also near Sidney—and rent a car from there. Then get on the Trans-Canada and head north to Parksville, then west on BC Highway 4 to Tofino. Split the drive into at least two or three days.

Roadside Attractions

Take a little time to explore Victoria, a lovely city carved out of the wilds of the Pacific Northwest. Have a look at some Orcas as they swim and breach by roaring out into the Salish Sea on a zodiac with Prince of Whales, the city’s premiere whale-watching outfit, browse the shops near the city’s picturesque Inner Harbour, or take a cute little water taxi  and go for fish and chips at Fisherman’s Wharf.

And when you’re ready to roll, head over the Malahat Drive (the winding section of mountain highway that connects the Saanich with the rest of Van Island). Stop in the charming village of Chemainus, which is painted with dozens of murals celebrating the town’s history and heritage, and browse their local artisan shops. Spend a little time in Parksville, home to some of the best beaches on the island and perhaps the warmest seawater in Canada—dramatic ties create a giant beach, the sun heats the sand, and when the tide rolls back in the sand heats the water, making for a pleasurable swim. There are also a number of interesting diversions in the area, including the North Island Wildlife Recovery Centre, which rehabilitates wounded and orphaned raptors (hawks, eagles, raptors) and black bears. Browse The Old Country Market in Coombs—it’ll be the building with goats eating tall stands of grass on the roof. Inside there’s a café and rambling store that sells everything from hammocks to Quebec cheese to bread baked right on site.

Then head west, over the mountains, to Tofino, about 2 ½ hours west of Parksville, a lovely stretch of highway that winds past lakes and snow-capped peaks. Stroll along famous Long Beach, a mystical place strewn with driftwood and lapped by Pacific waves, some of which are ridden by wetsuit-clad surfers (inquire in town about a lesson).

Eats

Victoria may seem like a strange place for Southern barbeque, but you can find authentic, mouth-watering pulled pork at Pig BBQ Joint, located right in the heart of town. En route north in Mill Bay, fuel up at the original outlet of Serious Coffee,  which opened more than a quarter-century ago and paved the way for the small chain of coffee shops that has become an island institution. Please note that they also feature some pretty serious brioche, in all its gooey goodness. A little further up the road, and a little off the beaten track, have some lunch at Genoa Bay Café, where you can munch on fresh Salt Spring Island mussels or West Coast seafood chowder while taking in the view of a charming harbor filled with small boats, skirted by mountains and dense forest (it’s worth the drive). And in Tofino, chow down on fish tacos or a hearty burrito at Tacofino, a cheery orange food truck in the back parking lot of a surf shop just outside of town that has become the stuff of legend by feeding thousands of surfers.

Sleep

In Victoria, lay your head down in style at the Fairmont Empress, perhaps the city’s most recognizable landmark, with its ivy-covered facade and air of English sophistication. At the midway point of the trip, relax at Parksville’s Beach Club Resort, which sits directly on the water and features large, comfortable rooms, a spa, and an excellent steakhouse.  And in Tofino, Long Beach Lodge features spectacular sea views and more than enough comfort to rest your adventure-weary bones.

Playlist

Spinning a few songs by the Aussie activist rockers Midnight Oil—the band that did more than any other to save the old-growth forests of Clayquot Sound—is a must. Listen to Nelly Furtado in Victoria—her hometown—and as you travel over the Malahat, put on some Hot Hot Heat, who hail from nearby Shawnigan Lake. And while they’re not exactly from the Island, it seems appropriate to hold a little tribute to the rockers of the Pacific Northwest who popularized grunge rock all those years ago—Seattle’s Pearl Jam, Soundgarden and, of course, Nirvana.

Hit the Road

Sometimes you need to get away from it all. These nearby destinations are the perfect escape from the city

By Kristina Urquhart

It's anchors aweigh on the Sunshine Coast, where a boat tours Sechelt Inlet. Photo by Tom Ryan courtesy Tourism British Columbia

Whistler

Car 2 hours
Train 3.5 hours via Rocky Mountaineer

The scenic Sea to Sky Highway winds from Vancouver to Whistler, a top-rated ski resort with plenty to do in the summer. Settle onto a sun-soaked patio to people-watch in the pedestrian-only village, relax with a massage at a world-class spa, tee up for golf on emerald fairways or navigate the vertiginous cliffs on a mountain bike. Don’t miss a ride on the 4.4-km- (2.7-mi-) long Peak 2 Peak Gondola; you’ll need to pick your jaw up off the glass-bottomed floor as the seemingly endless valley between Whistler and Blackcomb mountains stretches beyond. Halfway between Vancouver and Whistler lies Squamish—the recreation capital of Canada—so suit up for whitewater rafting, wind surfing, diving and rock climbing. A hike up the Stawamus Chief, the world’s second-largest granite monolith, yields panoramic views of Howe Sound. (more…)

Barmy for the British

When HRH Prince William weds Kate Middleton on Apr. 29, the world will be watching on the telly. These fab Vancouver spots will get you in a British frame of mind even before the big day

By Jennifer Patterson, Sheri Radford & Kristina Urquhart

Royal Romance, Modern Marriage: The Love Story of William & Kate courtesy Triumph Books

Cheers, Mate
British brews, such as Fuller’s London Pride, are on tap at Three Lions Cafe, which also serves staples such as lamb curry. Bangers ‘n’ mash is on the menu at Dover Arms Public House, a great place to watch Manchester United with your mates. Craving toad in the hole? The Cheshire Cheese Inn dishes up the sausages baked in Yorkshire pudding. Elephant & Castle is popular for bevvies.

The Tea Scene
If the thought of all that pub-going leaves you positively knackered, make like the monarchs and try afternoon tea instead. Indulge in dainties, scones and creams at Fairmont Hotel Vancouver’s 900 West Lounge or the Wedgewood Hotel’s Bacchus Restaurant. Adonia Tea House is brimming with British charm, from the floral wallpaper to the china pastry stands. Or get the royal treatment with service at The Urban Tea Merchant and Secret Garden Tea Company.

Chips or Crisps?
If it’s sweets from across the pond you’re after, you’ll be chuffed to peruse the selection at The Celtic Treasure Chest, Black Pudding Imports or Mary’s British Home Store—all stock British foodstuffs, including tasty treats from Cadbury and those addictive Walkers crisps, better known in Canada as chips. For true British chips (of the fish ‘n’ variety), try Go Fish, Mr. Pickwick’s Fish and Chips or Pajo’s at the Wharf.

Royal Wedding William & Kate: A Dress-Up Dolly Book courtesy Penguin Books


Take it Outside
To watch a cricket match, head to the Brockton Cricket Pavilion in Stanley Park. For a game of rugger, try the Brockton Oval in Stanley Park for local matches or UBC’s Thunderbird Stadium for international rugby. To simply bask in nature, visit Queen Elizabeth Park, named after Prince William’s great-grandmother, a “commoner” who married King George VI and who, along with her husband, visited Vancouver in 1939. While here the royal couple also officially opened the Lions Gate Bridge.

Dressed to the Nines
Jumpers and trousers aren’t up to snuff when prepping a wedding wardrobe. London’s own Agent Provocateur carries sexy knickers, the perfect underwear accompaniment to Burberry’s fine frocks and check-lined trench coats. Decorate nails with Butter London’s new shade, No More Waity, Katie—available online at www.butterlondon.com. Top it all off with a feathered fascinator or elegant chapeau from Edie Hats, then pop into The Flag Shop for a wee Union Jack to wave about.

Mini-Break
Fancy a trip to a city renowned for its British heritage and sights? Victoria is just a quick jaunt away via BC Ferries or floatplane.

To find out everything you ever wanted to know about William, Kate and their big day, visit www.theroyalweddingwilliamkate.com.

15 Things We Love About Vancouver: September

Historic Burnaby Art Gallery

1 Watching Antony and Cleopatra (to Sep. 24) at Bard on the Beach.
2 Sara Canning. The actress wasn’t born here, but we still claim her as a local.
3 Shakin’ your groove thang at the city’s most popular nightclubs.
4 Burnaby Art Gallery and all the other sights in Deer Lake Park.
5 Eating at any of the local cooking schools, such as Bistro 101 at Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts, Culinaria at The Art Institute of Vancouver, and JJ’s Restaurant at Vancouver Community College.
6 The annual Terry Fox Run (Sep. 19), raising money for cancer research.
7 Local wineries.
8 Taking the first ferry to Victoria or Nanaimo and watching the sun rise.

Perch on "Echoes" by Michael Goulet. Photo by KK Law

9 “Echoes” by Michel Goulet, an art installation on Kits Beach and part of the Vancouver International Sculpture Biennale.
10 Dining at Earls.
11 Robert Bateman. The Canadian painter is visiting Vancouver to meet fans and sign copies of his new book, Bateman: New Works, at Chapters on South Granville (Sep. 25, 2 p.m.).
12 Reading reminiscences of a month’s eating in Paris in Cooking for Me and Sometimes You: A Parisienne Romance with Recipes (French Apple Press, $29.95) by Barbara-Jo McIntosh, owner of Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks, which stocks every tome a budding chef could ever need.
13 The Superdogs at the PNE (to Sep. 6).
14 Indulging our sweet tooth at Stuart’s Bakery.
15 Dropping by The Granville Island Brewing Tap Room for a pint of Brockton IPA—and picking up some small-batch beers to take home after.

BC Ferries: By the Numbers

In honour of BC Ferries’ 50th birthday, we present some other important numbers in the history of this passenger ferry line that connects the province’s coastal communities

By Sheri Radford

1 We’re number one! BC Ferries is North America’s largest passenger ferry line.

2 On June 15, 1960 (its first official day of sailing), BC Ferries was named the British Columbia Toll Authority Ferry System and it consisted of just two ships—the MV Tsawwassen and the MV Sidney—and two terminals—Swartz Bay on the Victoria side and Tsawwassen on the Vancouver side. The company has grown to 36 vessels and 47 ports of call.

Photo of BC Ferries vessel in Howe Sound near Vancouver by Tom Ryan, courtesy Tourism BC

16 Back in 1960, it cost $5 for a car and $2 for a passenger to ride the ferry. Those rates remained the same for the next 16 years.

24 In the past half a century, 24 babies have bounced into the world on BC Ferries vessels.

95 It takes approximately 95 minutes to travel from the Lower Mainland to Vancouver Island, via either the Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay route or the Horseshoe Bay to Departure Bay route. The slightly longer Tsawwassen to Duke Point route clocks in at 120 minutes.

2, 100 Bigger is better: the largest ships in the fleet, the Spirit of British Columbia and the Spirit of Vancouver Island, measure 167 m (548 ft) long and carry 2,100 passengers and crew on the Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay route. In comparison, the 34-m- (112-ft-) long Nimpkish carries 125 people.

185,000 BC Ferries conducts 185,000 sailings annually.

702,000,000 Each year, the company transports more than 20 million people. To date, more than 702 million passengers have travelled on BC Ferries. Just think of all the hamburgers and Captain Kids Meals.

For more information, click here.

15 Things We Love About Vancouver: July

BC Ferries photo by Andrea Johnson courtesy Tourism BC

1 BC Ferries, now celebrating its 50th birthday.
2 Heading east to visit Fort Langley (where BC had its beginnings) before lunch overlooking the vines at Domaine de Chaberton Winery’s Bacchus Bistro.
3 Joshua Jackson. He was born in Vancouver, he appeared in The Mighty Ducks and Dawson’s Creek, and he’s back in town right now shooting the third season of Fringe.
4 Why I Love Vancouver, by Linda Solomon. Find it at local bookstores.
5 Shopping for everything local at Trout Lake (and other) farmers’ markets.
6 Hanging out all morning in wide-open garage-door cafes, such as JJ Bean Coffee Roasters at Main and 14th and Kitsilano’s Bistrot Bistro.
7 Fireworks during the HSBC Celebration of Light (Jul. 21, 24, 28, 31).

Fireworks photo by Danielle Hayes courtesy Tourism Vancouver

8 Celebrating Canada Day (Jul. 1).

9 The seawall.

10 Listening to the waves lapping while barbecuing hamburgers on Third Beach as the sun sets somewhere behind Howe Sound.
11 Dapper dogs in mini tuxedos. Find clothes for your own posh pooch at Barking Babies.
12 Spending an afternoon strolling through the Vancouver Art Gallery.
13 Unusual cuts of meat on the menus at Salt, Refuel, Campagnolo and The Irish Heather, part of the “waste not, want not” philosophy of the local nose-to-tail dining movement. Your taste buds won’t be disappointed.
14 Totem poles in Stanley Park.
15 Perfect summer days that never seem to end.

Hot Essentials: Come Sail Away

One of the three ships with 2010 Winter Games motifs, part of the BC Ferries fleet since 2008. Photo courtesy BC Ferries

Explore beautiful British Columbia with the help of BC Ferries, which makes regular sailings to the Sunshine Coast, Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands and Haida Gwaii (the Queen Charlotte Islands). For an easy day trip, head to Victoria, our historic provincial capital.—Kristina Urquhart

Top 10 Reasons to Return

If you think Vancouver is beautiful right now, just wait until you see the city in the summer

by Sheri Radford, Jennifer Patterson and Kristina Urquhart

Downtown Vancouver and the North Shore mountains, as seen from the oceanfront between Kitsilano Beach and Vanier Park. Photo copyright Ann Badjura/Dreamstime.com

1 Gorgeous Scenery
Vancouver has no shortage of breathtaking outdoor escapes: the rolling waves of the Pacific Ocean, the almost-year-round snow-capped mountains, and greenery as far as the eye can see. Wriggle your toes in the sand at one of the many public beaches, including Kits Beach—rated one of North America’s top 10 sexiest beaches by Forbes Traveler—or Wreck Beach, where clothing is optional. Head up the mountains for scenic 360-degree views, challenging hikes and glimpses of local wildlife. Grab your camera and visit one of the city’s many green spaces, including VanDusen Botanical Garden and Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden. Bike, walk or run Vancouver’s famous seawall, a 22-km (13.7-mi) shoreline stretch that wraps around Stanley Park, past Science World and Granville Island, finishing up at Kits Beach.—J.P.

2 Major Attractions
Seek refuge in Stanley Park, where you can see summertime displays of roses and rhododendrons, catch outdoor theatre

A team races in the annual Dragon Boat Festival in front of Science World at Telus World of Science. Photo by Tom Ryan courtesy Tourism BC

shows, frolic on beaches and ogle baby beluga whales at Vancouver Aquarium. Views abound at Capilano Suspension Bridge and Grouse Mountain, where observing the antics of Grinder and Coola—two orphaned grizzly bears—is a popular summer activity. False Creek forms the backdrop for Granville Island, a hub for artist studios. Impromptu street performances are common, the Public Market boasts seasonal bounty from local farmers and the public fish sales dock is a local favourite for buying fresh, in-season seafood. Closed through most of March, Science World is spending our Winter Games as the pavilion for the Sochi 2014 Winter Games. This iconic “golf ball” is a fixture in the Vancouver skyline; inside you’ll find hands-on exhibits, science demos and educational films in the OMNIMAX Theatre.—K.U.

3 Festivals & Special Events
July and August brim with outdoor events that take full advantage of the long, sun-soaked days. Bard on the Beach presents Shakespeare’s Much Ado About Nothing, Antony and Cleopatra, Falstaff and Henry V against a stunning ocean-and-mountains backdrop. Theatre Under the Stars mounts Joseph and the

The ferris wheel at the PNE. Photo by Sheri Radford

Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat and Singin’ in the Rain on alternating nights in Stanley Park’s Malkin Bowl. The Pacific National Exhibition (PNE) celebrates its 100th anniversary with rides, midway games, outdoor concerts, parades, the PNE prize home, mini-donuts and, of course, the Superdogs. The Vancouver Folk Music Festival brings musicians from around the world to Jericho Beach Park for three days of groovy sounds. Pride Week bursts with a rainbow of gay-pride events, culminating in the Pride Parade and Sunset Beach Festival. The HSBC Celebration of Light marks its 20th anniversary with fireworks over English Bay that light up Metro Vancouver.—S.R.

4 Outdoor Adventures
When the temperature rises, outdoor enthusiasts take to the seas for kayaking, scuba diving and whale watching. From late April through October, the waters surrounding Vancouver and Vancouver Island are abundant with orcas (formerly called killer whales). Whale-watching trips offer glimpses of other wildlife, too, including porpoises, sea lions, harbour seals and eagles. Thrill-seekers in both Vancouver and Whistler ride high above the treetops of rainforests while

A pod of orcas. Photo copyright Lazareva Evgeniya/Istockphoto.com

harnessed to a cable called a zipline. Avid cyclist? Participate in myriad bike races, or head to the Whistler Mountain Bike Park for 1,507 m (4,946 ft) of bike trails and a jump park. Hike the mountains and nearby national parks, or take a low-key stroll around the seawall. After a long day in the sun, relax like a Vancouverite with a yoga session on the beach.—K.U.

5 Golfing, Sailing & Skiing
You might have heard a rumour that it’s possible to golf, sail and ski in Metro Vancouver, all on the same day. Unlike most rumours, this one is true. Highly rated courses such as University Golf Club, Westwood Plateau, Furry Creek Golf and Country Club, and Nicklaus North Golf Course boast views so stunning that it may be difficult to keep your eye on the ball. Local companies such as Sewell’s Marina can take you on a sea safari or—if you’re up to the job of captain—rent you a boat to go exploring on your own. As for catching

Nicklaus North Golf Course in Whistler

some powder in the summertime, Whistler Blackcomb’s Horstman Glacier stays open for intermediate and advanced skiers and riders through July.—S.R.

6 Winter Games Sites
Relive exciting moments from the 2010 Winter Games with a tour of Olympic and Paralympic venues, either by yourself or guided by Enjoy Tour and Travel. Canada Hockey Place, otherwise known as GM Place, is home to our NHL team, the Canucks, and sits alongside BC Place. Up on Cypress Mountain, take in the view of the Vancouver Convention Centre. To the east is the Pacific Coliseum, the showcase for figure skating. Experience your own medal-worthy moment with a lap around the Richmond Olympic Oval, open to all levels of fitness after the Games. In Whistler, follow the path of gold-medal bobsledders with a guided tour of the Sliding Centre and Olympic/Paralympic Park.—J.P.

7 Sports Teams
You’ll hear the hoots and hollers of Vancouver Canucks fans until regular-season games wrap up Apr. 10—but if the team advances to the Stanley Cup playoffs, ’Nucks fever can last into June. September marks the start of the 2011 game season for both the Canucks and the Vancouver Giants, the city’s major junior hockey team. Football fans root for the BC Lions

Canucks goalie Roberto Luongo. Photo by Jeff Vinnick courtesy Vancouver Canucks

(Jun. to Nov.), and the Vancouver Canadians play the ol’ ball game at historic Nat Bailey Stadium (Jun. to Sep.). The Vancouver Whitecaps don their cleats this summer (Apr. to Oct.) before beginning their major-league soccer career in 2011.—K.U.

8 Day Trips
Head to Squamish and Whistler for outdoor activities aplenty, including windsurfing, mountain biking and canoeing. Hop aboard BC Ferries for a trip to Victoria, the capital city of British Columbia and home to our historic parliament buildings. A skip-and-a-jump between Vancouver and Vancouver Island are the Gulf Islands, and there’s no shortage of charming getaways on Salt Spring, Galiano and Mayne islands. The Fraser Valley is the perfect spot to grab farm-fresh cheese and u-pick raspberries. The province’s wine region can be found in the Okanagan, known for its dry, sunny climate. South of the border is Seattle, home to rock legends Nirvana and Jimi Hendrix, as well as the iconic Space Needle.—J.P.

9 Restaurants
Vancouver boasts world-class cuisine, but many of our best restaurants are rented out or booked solid during the 2010 Winter Games. Return in the warmer months, then, for an eating-and-drinking tour of the city featuring summer’s cornucopia of fresh

The seaside neighbourhood of Yaletwon, with Burrard Bridge in the background. Photo copyright KWest/Fotolia.com

local produce and sun-kissed patios with breathtaking views. Your stomach will thank you.—S.R.

10 Sunshine
Contrary to popular belief, it doesn’t always rain in Vancouver. But July and August are especially bright for sun worshippers.