This striding lion relief wall is one of the ROM’s many Mesopotamian artifacts (photo: ROM)

STARTS JUNE 22  Humanity’s journey from the cave to the city has its roots in Mesopotamia, an area encompassing present-day Iraq, as well as parts of Syria and Turkey. Here, the ancient Sumerian, Babylonian and Assyrian empires invented many of the touchstones around which modern society is organized—writing, law, trade—while presiding over a concurrent flowering of the arts and sciences. This summer, the Royal Ontario Museum offers serious insight into the region. Its landmark exhibition features more than 170 priceless pieces from the British Museum, plus artifacts from the ROM’s own collection, to show us just how much credit the cradle of civilization is due.  —Craig Moy

• Royal Ontario Museum, 100 Queen’s Park, 416-586-8000; rom.on.ca
• Map and reviews

These pretty handmade pieces are also sustainable

Vancouver-based Mala Collective crafts necklaces and bracelets that both look great and are easy on the planet. Handmade in Bali, Indonesia, from ethically produced, sustainably harvested, fairly traded rudraksha seeds combined with gemstones, the pieces have attracted a star following, from Sting to Donna Karan to Julia Roberts, who wore the jewellery in her film Eat, Pray, Love. Find your new favourite eco-friendly accessory at Nicole Bridger or Semperviva Yoga or online at www.malacollective.com.—Sheri Radford

With almost 5,000 square kilometres of rugged terrain, more than 1,600 lakes and an abundance of wildlife, Muskoka is an outdoor enthusiast’s dream destination. From family-friendly trails to rugged backcountry routes, the region offers something for all ages and abilities.

BY DAWN HUDDLESTONE

Mountain biking is a popular pastime for outdoor adventurers in Muskoka (photo: Buckwallow Cycling Centre)

ON SOLID GROUND
One of the best ways to experience Muskoka’s natural beauty is on foot. Urban pathways provide an accessible wilderness experience in the region’s historic towns. The Rotary Algonquin Regiment Fitness Trail in Parry Sound is a well-maintained five-kilometre trail that follows the shore of Georgian Bay. More adventurous hikers can continue to the north on the adjoining 2.5-kilometre North Shore Rugged Hiking Trail. In Huntsville, the Hunters Bay Trail is a moderate 3.8-kilometre waterfront trail that includes a floating pathway over a section of Hunters Bay.

For further exploration, there are a variety of trail networks like the Bracebridge Resource Management Centre, which offers 16.5 kilometres of hiking and mountain biking trails. Limberlost Forest and Wildlife Reserve has more than 70 kilometres of trails including a canoe route that traverses five lakes. Hardy Lake Provincial Park in Torrance has two challenging wilderness hiking routes. The Cranberry Marsh Trails in Bala are five scenic loops ranging from one to five kilometres in length.

WHEELIE POPPIN’ FUN
Both off- and on-road cyclists can find challenging routes along Muskoka’s rugged and hilly terrain. Buckwallow Cycling Centre between Bracebridge and Gravenhurst is a mountain biker’s mecca with more than 30 kilometres of single- and double-track trails. Devil’s Gap Trail in Gravenhurst has a 16-kilometre mountain bike extension that runs all the way to Torrance. More advanced riders will enjoy Porcupine Ridge Mountain Bike Park in Bracebridge, which also boasts a stunning view of Lake Muskoka.

Road cyclists can test their mettle on one of the Spin the Lakes routes in the Lake of Bays area. For more family-friendly cycling, try the 10-kilometre Old Railway Bike Trail in Algonquin Park or Huntsville’s Fairy Vista Trail, a paved 3.4-kilometre path that meanders through both forests and wetlands.

White Squall Paddling Centre offers Muskoka adventures on the water

WET AND WILD
With more than 1,600 lakes and access to the waters of Georgian Bay, Muskoka is a paddlers’ paradise. Canoe or kayak to Franklin Island, a conservation reserve on Georgian Bay to explore its many outer shoals, inland lakes and narrow channels. Take a leisurely trip down the Big East River Canoe Route from Huntsville or enjoy scenic views along the south branch of the Muskoka River from Bracebridge to Muskoka Falls. For both single- and multi-day paddling trips, explore the extensive waterways in Algonquin Park. There’s even a water taxi on Opeongo Lake that offers quick access to some of the routes. Any calm lake in Muskoka will suffice for stand-up paddleboarding, an increasingly popular activity that is a cross between surfing and canoeing. Whether you choose to explore Muskoka by land or by water, on your own or as part of a guided tour, it’s an experience you’ll likely never forget.

Dawn Huddlestone is a freelance writer and social media manager. She lives in Muskoka and revels in the fresh air, towering trees and dark night skies.

The Luminato Festival’s Literary Picnic brings together authors inspired by the idea of “beginnings” (photo: Maegan Tintari)

On June 22, the Luminato Festival hopes to make book lovers of us all when it summons more than 60 writers to Trinity Bellwoods Park for A Literary Picnic. Featuring public readings as well as more intimate one-on-one author encounters, this Woodstock for bibliophiles takes as its inspiration the notion of “beginnings.” Below, some of the event’s participating writers tell Where Toronto about their favourite opening sentences.

Don Gillmor

DON GILLMOR
on Rawi Hage’s De Niro’s Game

Ten thousand bombs had landed, and I was waiting for George.

I like first lines that have a sense of mystery and a sense that the book has already started and somehow you missed the very beginning. As if you were late for a movie and missed the start, but you’re there now, and things are already happening. It lends an immediacy to things. The ball is already rolling. Mystery and seduction, that’s what beginnings—whether literary or romantic—are about.

Don Gillmor is the author of non-fiction works including Canada: A People’s History and Praise for the Desire of Every Living Thing. His 2009 novel Kanata is now joined his brand new work of fiction, Mount Pleasant.

Susan Swan

SUSAN SWAN
on Herman Melville’s Moby Dick

Call me Ishmael.

I’ve never forgotten the first three words of Moby Dick, Herman Melville’s novel about a whaling ship’s hunt for an albino whale. As a novelist, my main character’s name is crucial. I need to get the name right, or my character won’t feel real to me, or the reader. Finding the right name can take months but when it arrives, like the ping of an email landing in my inbox, writing my novel starts to get a lot easier.

I don’t know how long it took Melville to arrive at Ishmael, the same name as a Biblical outcast, or come up with the idea of inviting the reader to call his hero by it. But this evocative opening is memorable for its brevity, and the way it establishes friendly relations with anybody who picks up Melville’s book. Immediately, we know that Ishmael is a man out of tune with his time, and the next few lines in the opening paragraph confirm it:

Some years ago—never mind how long precisely—having little or no money in my purse, and nothing particular to interest me on the shore, I thought I would sail about a little and see the watery part of the world. It is a way I have of driving off the spleen, and regulating the circulation. Whenever I find myself growing grim about the mouth; whenever it is a damp, drizzly November in my soul; whenever I find myself involuntarily passing before coffin warehouses, and bringing up the rear of every funeral I meet; and especially whenever my hypos get such an upper hand of me, that it requires a strong moral principle to prevent me from deliberately stepping into the street and methodically knowing people’s hats of– then I account it high time to get to the sea as soon as I can.

Susan Swan’s latest novel is The Western Light. It was nominated by the Ontario Library Association as one of the top 10 books of 2012 books.

Peter Unwin

PETER UNWIN
on Malcolm Lowry’s Lunar Caustic

There are too many marvellous openings to know even where to begin, but I have always had a soft spot for this one. Emerging from the author’s lifelong fascination with alcoholism, it is not as venerated as the stunning telescopic opening to Under the Volcano, but is written in the universal language of the human community, and combines some wit, the sea, and an almost excruciating foreshadowing of things to come.

A man leaves a dockside tavern in the early morning, the smell of sea in his nostrils, and a whiskey bottle in his pocket, gliding over the cobbles lightly as a ship leaving harbour.

Soon he is running into a storm and tacking from side to side, frantically trying to get back. Now he will go into any harbour at all.

He goes into another saloon.

From this he emerges cunningly repaired, but he is in difficulties once more. This time it is serious: he is nearly run over by a streetcar, he bangs his head on a wall, once he falls over an ash can where he has thrown a bottle. Passers-by stare at him curiously, some with anger, others with amusement, or even a strange avidity.

I have always responded to the combination of familiarity and foreignness that are contained on that opening page.

Peter Unwin is the author of numerous books. His latest, Life Without Death, is currently available and published by Cormorant books.

Damian Rogers

DAMIAN ROGERS
on Rudyard Kipling’s “The Elephant’s Child” (from The Just So Stories)

In the high and far-off times the elephant, oh, Best Beloved, had no trunk. He had only a blackish, bulgy nose, as big as a boot, that he could wriggle about from side to side. But he could not pick up things with it.

But there was one Elephant—a new Elephant—an Elephant’s Child—who was full of ’satiable curiosities.

My grandmother used to read this story over and over to her children, the neighbor’s children, her children’s children. It was the equivalent of her signature karaoke song. She came from a generation that read out loud as a form of entertainment. And she was wonderful, she performed all the characters—the Bi-Coloured-Python-Rock-Snake, Kola Kola Bird, the Crocodile, and the Elephant’s Child—beautifully. I still hear her voice along with Kipling’s, and it’s partly due to his genius at capturing the texture of oral storytelling. I also love how the emergence of this “new Elephant” forces the language to break into em-dash-induced leaps. You know right away this is a story about the transformative power of foolish, unbridled, insatiable curiosity.

Damian Rogers is the founder of the “live-action literary and arts journal” Pontiac Quarterly, and creative director for Poetry In Voice, a national poetry recitation contest for Canadian high school students. Her own poems have been published as the collection Paper Radio.

RICHARD SCRIMGER on three favourite beginnings

Some books open with a hesitant smile—they want to make friends but they are a bit shy. “You probably have lots of other things to do today,” these openings seem to say to me. Or, somewhat more positively, “Please keep reading. I do hope you find something you like.”

My favorite openings are the ones that grab me by the collar and shake me. “Hey, you!” they say. “C’mere! I have something you are going to love!”

Three of my favorite opening sentences are:

Iain Banks, The Crow Road:

It was the day my grandmother exploded.

MT Anderson, Feed:

We went to the moon to have fun and the moon turned out to totally suck.

Miriam Toews, The Flying Troutmans:

Yeah, so things have fallen apart.

These openings are immediately engaging. The voices are strong and convincing, the potential for story is immense. You just know that Banks’ family is creepy and dysfunctional and funny. You totally believe in Anderson’s teenage boy of the future. And Toews’ narrator is already that strange combination of sad and hopeful that sets her off on her odyssey. In a way you can see these openings as examples of synecdoche—the part for the whole. Properly understood, they encapsulate and so foreshadow the whole book. And don’t they just make you want to read on!

Richard Scrimger writes a lot, reads even more, and talks even more than that. His latest book is Ink Me, published by Tundra. Next year he expects to publish a new work, Viminy Crowe’s Comic Book.

Mark Dillon

MARK DILLON
on JD Salinger’s The Catcher in the Rye

If you really want to hear about it, the first thing you’ll probably want to know is where I was born, and what my lousy childhood was like, and how my parents were occupied and all before they had me, and all that David Copperfield kind of crap, but I don’t feel like going into it, if you want to know the truth.

At the risk of making a popular choice, this was a breath of fresh air when I first read it in high school, and the first indication that literature could speak directly to me. Previously in our school English program, it had all been Dickens and Thomas Hardy—stuff from another time aimed at another audience, but right from this opening missive, we knew we were finally reading a book to which we could relate. This was the voice of a smart-aleck messed up teenager who could have been sitting right next to us. What a revelation.

Mark Dillon is a Toronto-based arts journalist and former editor of Playback magazine. His book Fifty Sides of The Beach Boys recently won a bronze medal at the Independent Publisher Book Awards.

The sleek bar at Hundred is one of the great fixtures of Edmonton’s nightlife scene where you can unwind with a drink after work or before heading out for a night on the town.

These atmospheric nightlife spots offer a variety of quality drink specials that are perfect to enjoy at the end of a long work day or before heading out to another event. Plus: all of these venues are open late, so you can pop in for a refresher or wind-down beverage any time of night.

Central Social Hall
Mingle with colleagues or grab a seat at the bar and make new friends — their coasters and flat-screen TVs flash conversation-starting questions (“What was your favourite TV show in high school?”) and topics to promote engaging social conversation and discourage rampant Facebook status-updating, tweeting, and texting! If you need to catch a sports game, you’ll find it broadcast on one of the many high-definition televisions lining the bar. Start your weekend early on Thursdays with their all-day $4 draft beer and martini specials. Open daily 11 a.m. – 2 a.m.
• Central Social Hall, 10909 Jasper Ave., 780-705-1900, centralsocialhall.com
• Map and reviews

Confederation Lounge
The premier spot for after-work drinks in Edmonton is the elegant estate library-style setting of the Confederation Lounge. The plush armchairs scattered around the room provide a great setting for solo travelers to grab a seat and relax with one of their old-fashioned cocktails or a glass of premium scotch. In the summer months, be sure to take your drink out on to the patio for a stunning view of the river valley. Open Mon. – Sat. 11 a.m. – 1 a.m.; Sun. 11 a.m. – 12 a.m.
• Confederation Lounge, Fairmont Hotel MacDonald, 10065-100 St., 780-424-5181, website
• Map and reviews

Hundred Bar & Kitchen
Stop in for Hundred Social Hour daily from 3 pm – 7pm and enjoy $5 premium cocktails, $5 Beringer wine, and $6 pints of beer. Pay half-price for bottles and glasses of wine on Wednesdays, with 35 varieties to choose from. Not sure which one to order? Try a $7 wine flight on Thursdays. Looking for something a little stronger? Enjoy a premium double cocktail for $8 on Thursdays, and choose from decadent options like The CEO Champagne Cocktail. Open Mon. – Fri. 11 a.m. – close; Sat. 5 p.m. – close; closed Sun.
• Hundred Bar & Kitchen, 10009-101A Ave., 780-425-0100, website
• Map and reviews

Public House
The stunning bookshelves that line the walls might remind of you of work, but the atmosphere is nothing but relaxing. Enjoy $4 glasses of wine every Thursday night, and Happy Hour specials 4 pm – 7 pm Wednesday through Friday, including $4 glasses of their feature wine and pints. On Wednesday nights you can pick your poison with $4 shots, drinks, pints, and glasses of wine all night long. Open daily 11 a.m. – 2 a.m.
• Public House, 10765 Jasper Ave., 780-420-9088, yourpublichouse.com
• Map and reviews

RELATED: The Best Venues for Live Entertainment in All of Edmonton

BiBO Wine Bar
Traveling alone? The intimate setting of BiBO, which can only accommodate ten patrons at a time, is a perfect place to grab a glass of wine or scotch solo and mingle with the friendly bartenders or other guests. A constantly rotating and diverse menu include selections of sparkling wine, port, dessert wines, and fine single-malt scotch. BiBO is right next door to Culina Mill Creek Restaurant, so it’s a great place to pass the time before or after a meal. Tue. – Thu. 5 p.m. – 10 p.m.; Fri. 5 p.m. – close; Sat. 6 p.m. – close.
• BiBO Wine Bar, 9919-89 Ave., 780-437-5588, website
• Map and reviews

The Bothy
Offering up a relaxed yet sleek and elegant setting, it’s easy to unwind after a busy day with a glass of wine or whisky at The Bothy. Their selection of whiskies is most impressive; whether you know the variety you want to order, or whether you want to sample something new, the knowledgeable staff will be able to guide you through the selections. They also offer a create-your-own cheese and charcuterie option, which is perfect for sharing with a small group. Two locations in Edmonton. Mon. 3 p.m. – 10 p.m.; Tue. – Thu. 11:30 a.m. – 12 a.m.; Fri. – Sat. 3 p.m. – late; Sun. 3 p.m. – 9 p.m.
• The Bothy, 5482 Calgary Tr., 780-761-1761, thebothy.ca
• Map and review

JOEY
Step into the sleek lounge and immerse yourself in a visually stunning atmosphere. Racks of hundreds of varieties of wine line the wall, and there is a pool in the centre of the room at which to lounge around with a beverage by your side any season of the year. Enjoy drink specials every day of the week, and be sure to try one of their signature cocktails like a Super Sonic Gin & Tonic or a Vanilla Apple Mojito. Three locations in Edmonton. Sun. – Mon. 11 a.m. – 12 a.m.; Thu. – Sat. 11 a.m. – 1 a.m.
• JOEY, 130 Mayfield Common, 780-487-8060, joeyrestaurants.com
• Map and reviews

The Bower
You’ll feel like a stylish, smart character on Mad Men drinking one of their swanky retro sips like an Old Fashioned (made authentically with bitters), Whiskey Sour, Bees Knees, or Jalapeno Margarita. Tip: Head to this plush, upscale club on Thursday nights for half-price cocktails and let the weekday woes disappear. Thu. – Sat., 8 p.m. – 2:30 a.m.
• The Bower, 10538 Jasper Ave., 780-423-4256, thebower.ca
• Map and reviews

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Directed by Atom Egoyan, Feng Yi Ting tells a Chinese legend at the Luminato Festival (photo: Julia Lynn)

JUNE 20 TO 22  Love and conflict are interwoven in Feng Yi Ting. The contemporary Chinese opera, directed by Atom Egoyan, tells of a legendary beauty whose seductive charms spark a brutal rivalry between a warlord and a general. At stake is the fate of an empire. MacMillan Theatre, 8 p.m., $25 to $65; call 416-368-4849 or visit luminatofestival.com for more information.  —Anna Marszalek

By TRAVIS PERSAUD

Ottawa Fringe Festival: This off-the-wall theatre festival runs from June 20 to 30 in downtown Ottawa, presenting 53 productions including Happiness, pictured here (Photo: Dzmitry Klachkou)

Ottawa’s largest, weirdest, and arguably coolest theatre festival returns.

Ottawa Fringe Festival takes over the city’s downtown core from June 20 to 30, presenting 53 productions at more than a dozen venues. A jury doesn’t select Ottawa Fringe participants, unlike other theatre festivals, creating an exciting atmosphere where anything can happen.

“An artist’s success — or failure — is based on the strength of their talents alone,” says Natalie Joy Quesnel, Ottawa Fringe Festival’s producer. “The first days of performances are especially exciting when word-of-mouth and reviews try to quickly separate the shows to see from the flops. And there are flops.”

Take a look at Ottawa Fringe Festival’s video previews below, and their full schedule, to plan your week of theatre hopping!

Click here to view the embedded video.

Ottawa Fringe Festival for Parents
You don’t have to miss out on the Fringe fun if you have little tykes! The festival has a number of family friendly performances, and there’s even a drama camp for children ages 4 to 12 on June 22 and June 29.

Ottawa Fringe Festival Concerts and Parties
The Courtyard, at Waller Street and Daly Avenue, will act as Fringe Festival headquarters, complete with a beer tent, DJs spinning tunes, a variety of performances, and free concerts. Of note, The Elwins play on June 27 and StillNative close the festival on July 1.

Click here to view the embedded video.

Ottawa Fringe Festival Ticket Details and More!
Now that you’re all amped up to check out some killer (and not so killer) shows, here are your ticket options:
• Single show tickets cost $10
• Frequent Fringer Pass. A five-show pass costs $45; a 10-show pass costs $75
• You can buy your tickets in advance online, and at the box office (2 Daly Ave), up to one day before the performance
• Last minute decision? Well, you can also grab your tickets at the door
• Performances are staged at 13 venues in downtown Ottawa. Download a map here

“Untitled (Still Life with Peaches and Shells)” by Balthasar van der Ast. Photo by Jim Gorman courtesy Vancouver Art Gallery

If the Netherlands isn’t in your itinerary—and even if it is—take a trip to the Vancouver Art Gallery for Persuasive Visions: 17th Century Dutch and Flemish Masterworks and Contemporary Reflections (Jun. 15 to Sep. 15) to see works from the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. Find pieces from the Dutch Golden Age, including artist Balthasar van der Ast’s “Untitled (Still Life with Peaches and Shells)” (pictured), alongside contemporary art, for an exhibition that’s well worth the journey.—Jill Von Sprecken

photo: Elisa Greco

Pass by Toronto’s Trinity Bellwoods Park on any sunny summer day and you’re likely to spy dozens, if not hundreds, of people lazing in the grass, alone or in groups, with their noses buried in books. On June 22, the Luminato Festival indulges this pastime on a grand scale by assembling more than 60 writers—and thousands of local book lovers—for A Literary Picnic. Featuring public readings as well as more intimate one-on-one author encounters, this Woodstock for bibliophiles takes as its inspiration the notion of “beginnings,” though the event’s freewheeling nature is sure to foster all manner of bookish conversation.

Choosing the Picnic’s numerous participants was the job of Michael Redhill, acclaimed Toronto-based novelist, poet, playwright, publisher (of literary journal Brick), and Curator of Literature for Luminato. He recently indulged a few queries from Where Toronto:

WHERE: You selected more than 60 writers to participate in A Literary Picnic. How did you determine who you would ask to be involved?

REDHILL: I wanted to create an event that would be as representative of the city’s depth as a hub of writing activity in this country. I sought out well-known novelists, and grassroots poets; there are a couple self-published writers at the event, and a couple who have been publishers. Many nationalities and backgrounds will be present, bringing stories about other places to our stages here at home. What was difficult about making up the reading list was how many people I couldn’t fit in. Luminato’s A Literary Picnic could have been twice its size. Maybe next year…

The idea of a literary picnic seems to be a very Toronto-relevant type of event. The city’s literary community, though diverse, nonetheless seems to be a particularly tight-knit group—it doesn’t seem all that far-fetched to imagine many of the Picnic’s authors simply gathering of their own volition for a get-together at the park.

Indeed many of them live in the area and use the park daily, as I once did, when I was a younger author, living in Little Italy.

How does A Literary Picnic fit in with the rest of Luminato’s programming this year?

A Literary Picnic is a festival within the festival, both a snapshot and a cornucopia, showcasing the richness of local talent in the context of a festival that is international in scope. It doesn’t so much “fit” as it dovetails: it fills in one area of the overall programming that is very important to us at Luminato: showcasing Toronto and its wealth of talent.

Can you tell us a bit about your own relationship with beginnings? How do you approach the beginning of a new literary project?

My beginnings often hover around in my mind for years before I find them finally making it onto the page. I have, for about a year now, been obsessed with the image of a man who is invited to a house party in a small French town that he is merely passing through, and who spends the party hiding in the wine cellar. I know why he’s doing it, but the reader won’t until they read on. My problem is: how to find him there for the first time? What particular moment is the essential beginning? I won’t know this until it refuses to stay in my head any longer. But I expect it will be there for at least another year.

Do you have a favourite beginning in a book? What makes that beginning so notable?

I have to say, I love the beginning of James Joyce’s Ulysses: “Stately, plump Buck Mulligan came from the stairhead, bearing a bowl of lather on which a mirror and a razor lay crossed.” Not only is it a perfectly made sentence, with all its internal mechanisms and rhythms utterly balanced, it’s also worth reading and rereading for all the clues it gives to what will follow in the next 700 pages.

The Picnic seems to have two main components: on-stage readings as well as one-on-one picnic-blanket meetings. Can you tell us a bit more about what you expect from the latter?

There is a public as well as a private component to books and reading. The stages at the Picnic will provide the communal experience of storytelling, and the blankets the private. The one-on-one meetings will be first-come-first-served; there is no schedule and no list of who will be on the blankets, or when.

What else can attendees expect from the event?

Unique eats from some of Toronto’s best food trucks, tables full of books from Type Books, as well as at our book exchange table, our small press table, the Toronto Public Library Bookmobile, Best Book Canada, and the CBC. Also: a blue sky and lots of sun. I hope.

Christian Louboutin’s retrospective at the Design Exchange is filled with creative footwear (photo: Luke Hayes)

JUNE 21 TO SEPTEMBER 15  Footwear fetishists now have significant motivation to stride over to the Design Exchange as it welcomes a retrospective on Christian Louboutin. Known around the world for his couture stilettos with their signature red soles, the French cordwainer has long found creative inspiration in everything from film to architecture to showgirl performances. The exhibition places these diverse muses within the context of Louboutin’s design method, and incorporates sketches, prototypes and even a re-creation of his Paris studio to reveal how each unique shoe goes from idea to work of art. As for the finished products themselves, you wont’ be disappointed. There are more than 200 prodigiously stylish pumps on display.  —Craig Moy

• Design Exchange, 234 Bay St, 416-216-2160; dx.org
• Map and reviews