With London’s River Café alumnus Neil Taylor heading up the kitchen and ex-Lumiere general manager/sommelier Sebastien Le Goff in charge, it didn’t take long for Cibo to gain a solid reputation for its vibrant rustic Italian cuisine, thoroughly grounded in West Coast ingredients. Taylor’s dishes, which change by the week (if not the day), are constructed with uncomplicated—but wickedly exacting—flair. The sleek room sports oversized silkscreen paintings above contemporary chrome and glass, neatly balanced by the restored 100-year-old terracotta tile floor. Menu standouts range from a clutch of handmade pastas (such as spaghetti nero with Dungeness crab) to pancetta-wrapped rabbit loin with salsa verde to Galiano Island mussels with white wine, herbs and crème fraîche. The dessert list seduces with vanilla pannacotta under grappa cherries, or the sinful River Café signature chocolate “Nemesis.” Prices are moderate, especially given the quality on the plate, while Le Goff’s pairings—and a prix fixe pre-theatre offering—make this stylish surprise a must. 900 Seymour Street, Vancouver 604-602-9570. www.cibotrattoria.com
