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Farmer’s Apprentice

By TIM PAWSEY

Chef David Gunawan. (Photo: KK Law)

Chef David Gunawan. (Photo: KK Law)

In a city of locavores, it’s no surprise that chefs David Gunawan and Dara Young’s compact, organic Farmer’s Apprentice is gaining attention. Tastes and textures at this rustic room, just across the Granville Street Bridge from downtown, are as wide ranging as they are innovative. The menu shifts not only with the season but by the week, or even daily, depending on which sought-after heritage varieties of produce or meat land on the couple’s doorstep. Past highlights have ranged from pan-seared sweetbreads with egg yolk, celeriac and parsley emulsion; to steelhead trout with roasted artichokes, smoked olives and grapefruit emulsion. More traditional appetites can choose perfectly grilled Angus rib-eye with onions, porcini mushrooms and beet jus. Wines are as thoughtfully sourced as the food and, in keeping with the organic mantra, all biodynamic.

For more by Tim Pawsey, visit hiredbelly.com

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