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Listings to get the most out of your visit: where to dine, what to see, where to shop, and more.
On Rappell by Canmore Caverns
Traversing a headlamp-lit subterranean world of twisting corridors, hanging stalactites and a crystal pool with Canmore Caverns is a year-round adventure often overlooked by Banff and area visitors. Participants slither through the 15-metre Laundry Chute, rappel 18-metres down a rock face and learn about the cave’s geology from knowledgeable guides.—Ashley Wong
Ptarmigans by Peter A. Dettling & TerraMagica.ca
Peter Dettling, owner of Canmore’s Terra Magica gallery and author/photographer of The Will of the Land, shares favourite locations to see animals in winter:
Icefields Parkway Ptarmigan Most birds leave in winter, but some adaptable species remain. At the south end viewpoint of Bow Lake (20 min north of Lake Louise, Map 1), a raven pair always greets tourists. Farther north, white tailed ptarmigan frequent the meadows below Bow Summit, but their white winter plumage make them hard to spot. Listen for hooting owls before sunrise or after sunset on Hwy 11 just east of the Parkway, particularly in February and March.
Bow Valley Parkway Moose Aptly named Moose Meadows east of the Town of Banff along Hwy 1A (Map 1) has habitat perfect for these large mammals. But resident elk (or wapiti) offer more reliable sightings. Large elk bulls (or stags) often reside east of Johnston Canyon, especially in early winter. Also watch for elk in the meadows just north of town on either side of Hwy 1.
Vermilion Lakes American Dippers Check hot spring heated waters (Map 3, 3B) where tiny dippers on rocks rapidly bend at the knee and bob their heads up and down in search of food. Try to spot wolf or cougar tracks on the road or frozen portions of the lakes.
Please don’t feed animals or get too close. Harsh winters can make them weak and stressful flight from tourists can reduce their ability to survive.—JN
Bison Gnocchi at The Juniper
Snowy peaks might not bring to mind abundant local produce, but many Canadian Rockies chefs incorporate the bounty of Alberta’s agriculture year-round. From free-range meats to relish made from fall squash, conscientious diners can choose cuisine made with ingredients grown nearby.
Alberta beef may be our most famous regional offering, but you might be surprised by what else the province has to offer. Mike Day, owner of Evil Dave’s Grill in Jasper, loves the bison that is “native to Alberta and a delicious alternative to beef.” Local farms also raise the Berkshire hogs and heritage chickens found on the menu at Canmore’s Sage Bistro. “The flavour of the meat is more complex than conventional breeds,” notes Sage owner Todd Kunst.
Products from local dairy producers like Sylvan Star Cheese and Fairwinds Farm are increasingly popular. “Fairwinds goat cheese is a real treat,” says Shane Katsuno, chef at Banff’s Juniper Bistro. Originally from Ontario, Katsuno is impressed by the quality of Alberta produce. Day from Evil Dave’s agrees: “It was a rainy summer, so the onions and shallots we’re serving this winter are tasty and huge!”
Indeed, many summer-grown ingredients are used in winter. Sage’s Kunst says careful planning and organization is key. “We stock our kitchen with produce that lasts like carrots, turnips, beets and squash. Our menu becomes more compact and we focus on heartier flavours such as those in our squash risotto and slow-cooked chicken.”
Katsuno from the Juniper also loves “creating satisfying, homey dishes that people enjoy when they come in from the cold.” He even enjoys cooking in winter more than summer. Traditional stews, braised meats and homemade pastas are
“winter-style fare that make it easy to feature local and seasonal ingredients,” says Katsuno. Outdoor enthusiasts are tempted by his hand-made squash tortellini and bison gnocchi (above).
Day isn’t daunted by Alberta’s long winter either. “Cooking seasonally allows us to be creative with what we have,” he says. Evil Dave dishes like Malevolent Meatloaf incorporate local bison and wild boar bacon, and prove that “we’re definitely not stuck with root vegetables.” After a visit to a nearby farm Day was inspired to make 40 jars of zucchini relish that are now put to good use as a winter garnish.
Katsuno also finds farm visits motivating: “Seeing how a vegetable grows in the field inspires me on how I’ll use it when it’s in my kitchen.” And Kunst likes knowing that chickens procured from Alberta artisan farms are free-range. “Each bird has its own little house,” he says. “Smaller producers care about their animals.”
Passionate Canadian Rockies chefs capture the essence of the land and the distinct flavours of Alberta. They buy locally to increase quality, and in the process connect diners with natural rhythms of the growing season. It’s no coincidence that seasonal Alberta ingredients make dishes that perfectly match our winter weather.—Meredith Bailey
The owners of Silver Dragon Restaurant are of Cantonese origin, so the cuisine of this region comprises most of their menu. Stir fried, deep fried and steamed meats, fish and vegetables are lightly spiced (so natural flavours of the ingredients are showcased) and served with sauces such as oyster, black bean, and sweet and sour. Spicy Szechuan fish, beef and vegetable dishes are winter favourites; the heat often comes from wokking in sesame oil infused with Chinese chilis, peppercorns and garlic. For authenticity, try Fish with Spicy Broth, the Silver Dragon dish most popular with visitors from mainland China.
By Meredith Bailey
Improved gear and many tour choices make old-fashioned winter travel new again.
Banff Lake Louise Tourism/Paul Zizka
Long before helicopters and chairlifts, winter activity enthusiasts accessed the Canadian Rockies backcountry with simple equipment and no mechanical help. Cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, dog sledding and horse-drawn sleighs were essential modes of winter travel. (more…)
Handmade Quill Basket at Buffalo Nations Luxton Museum Shop
Museums are supported in part by proceeds from their gift shops. So feel good when you purchase unique products that include:
Buffalo Nations Luxton Museum: handmade crafts by talented local First Nation artisans.
Whyte Museum: art that reflects current exhibits (see their Art Shows & Sales), and historic photos from their archives.
Canmore Museum & Geoscience Centre: area rocks and fossils, and books on geology.—LS
Melissa's Steak Cart
Melissa’s Restaurant has reintroduced their wheel-to-the-table steak cart, a fixture of the original restaurant that opened 32 years ago. After a 15-year hiatus, patrons considering a steak dinner can again view all 8 cuts of the AAA Alberta beef on offer—seeing the difference between tenderloin, ribeye and sirloin contributes to a more informed choice. Also on ice and under glass are Melissa’s lobster tails, salmon and shrimp. “People are amazed at the size of our prawns,” says restaurant owner Bunny Julius.—JN
Men's Massage
A spa visit may not be a giant leap for mankind, but for some men it sure seems that way. Red Earth Spa offers a Sports Therapy Treatment for men that includes an aromatherapy plunge and massage designed to relieve muscle tension (great after skiing). But spa director Suzannah Patimios suggests men try a facial—even the most skeptical end up loving it. Still not ready to venture off to the spa on your own? A couples’ treatment is a baby step that allows for quality time with your sweetheart.—Alison Baird
It was a tough assignment, but I was up to the task. So, I set out to visit the Canadian Rockies’ three brew pubs. Friends and I sampled their food, quaffed their house-made beers and filed this report. By Jack Newton
Beers at Banff Ave Brewing Co
Last spring I watched as the owners of Banff Avenue Brewing Co reinforced the floor with steel, installed stainless brewery tanks and converted a high-end restaurant into Banff’s first brew pub. The results are impressive. Features of the previous restaurant remain such as a frosted glass ‘wall of wine’, recycled fir bar and big windows that open onto the main street balcony. New elements include soft leather seats, pool table and open-to-view brewery with tours on request.
Banff Avenue Brewing Co retains the fabulous kitchen of its predecessor and employs culinary director David Husereau to work with on-site chef Scott Kelly on menu detail. So, making our first dining choices was easy; Spiny Lobster Roll is one of Dave’s signature dishes. My server assured me that although it’s an appetizer, “the roll is big enough to make a meal.”
Elegantly presented on a long skinny plate with artistically drizzled sauce, the col-ourful, bursting-with-flavour Lobster Roll is so pretty that it’s a shame to break apart. “I like the contrast between the crunchy outside and the creamy inside,” remarked my dining companion Katie.
We also sampled the Crispy Buffalo Chicken Sandwich. Served on ciabatta with hot sauce, cheddar, bacon and blue cheese dressing, this dish also proved to be a tasty selection. Fries arrived hot and crisp (and soft on the inside) in a butcher paper lined, metal coil cone.
Three of Banff Avenue Brewing Co owners are also partners of Jasper Brewing Co, a brew pub I have long admired for their excellent beers (more on this below). So, my expectations of their Banff brews were high. I was not disappointed. My pint of Reverend Rundle Stout was a nitrogen-infused dark ale reminiscent of Guinness, but milder and easier to drink.
Banff Avenue Brewing Co produces seven beers on-site, each with a distinctive combination of malted barley and hops. The common denominator is Banff’s mineral-rich, glacier fed water that the brewmaster has discovered is best just as it comes from the tap. The only treatment required to make good beer is the removal of chlorine.
Meatloaf at Banff Ave Brewing Co
I have been a fan of Jasper Brewing Co for years. I enjoy dropping by for a pint of their fresh and tasty beer that’s piped to the taps directly from their lower level, visible-through-glass brewery. A tour (available on request) provides an education on beer ingredients and the brewing process. It also confirms this brew pub’s dedication to their craft.
The night before my ‘official’ reconnaissance for this article, I took a seat at the bar to watch the Oilers play hockey on one of their many plasmas. Light Honey Coriander Ale served with lime quenched a powerful thirst created from a day of work. Next to me sat Paul from Phoenix, a burly fellow with flowing beard who had been travelling by motor home for months. “More like a long pub crawl,” he noted. Remembering that I had research to conduct, I asked Paul if he liked his beer. He responded with a thumbs-up and a nod of his head.
The next day my business partner Glenn and I took a seat at a comfortable, window-side booth with main street and mountain view. On the advice of our server we ordered Monkey Fingers, crispy chicken tenders crusted in banana panko (Japanese bread crumbs); curry and sweet chili sauces contributed to the flavour. We also tried the Grilled Salmon and Fresh Veggie Sandwich, a breaded filet on ciabatta with fresh dill tartar, cucumbers, peppers, lettuce and red onion, and a side of outstanding sweet potato fries.
The food was good, and (as usual) the beer was great. The Rock Hopper India Pale Ale was pleasingly bitter; extra hops provide its characteristic taste. Their Honey Bear, made with German hops and clover honey from Canada’s Okanagan, is a brew I recommend if you like a beer with big flavour. We enjoyed the first two pints so much that we ordered a third. Liftline Cream Ale is brewed with British malt and hops, and poured with nitrogen to give it an easy drinking and creamy taste. Beers are served in a signature glass embossed with the distinctive Jasper Brewing Co logo.
Interior of Grizzly Paw Brewing Company
Unlike its Banff and Jasper counterparts, Canmore’s Grizzly Paw Brewing Company is a designated micro brewery. Beers from their two-storey, back-of-the-restaurant brewery are both tap poured on-site and available at local liquor stores (their bottling plant is in a separate building). The Paw is also unique insofar as they brew sodas as well as beer. These carbonated fruit drinks plus root beer and cream soda are surprisingly delicious, not as sweet or col-oured as you might expect.
The Grizzly Paw opened in 1996, making it the Canadian Rockies’ original brew pub. The pine finished restaurant has a bar, dining section and patio with overhead heaters, fireplace and barbeque on the main floor. The deck is great, but in winter I recommend eating upstairs in the cozy loft with vaulted ceiling, pool table, fireplace and four big screens. Both levels have views of Main Street, the historic United Church and Three Sister Mountains. Open mic night (from 10 pm) is Tuesday; grab the guitar to indulge your inner entertainer.
My dining companion Warren and I were hungry. So, I ordered the blackboard special, hearty slices of spiced blackened steak topped with cambozola (brie and blue cheese) served with fresh vegetables and a salad comprised of more ingredients than anticipated. Warren ordered the steak sandwich, a tender New York cut bigger than the six ounces advertised. The chef was happy to make the meal gluten free as my friend requested.
Since Warren adheres to a diet free of wheat and barley, the burden of sampling Grizzly Paw beers feel entirely on my shoulders. I chose the Dark Flight, a selection of Rutting Red (Scottish style amber), IPA (made with four varieties of hops), Coffee Stout (seasonal beer) and English-like Big Head Nut Brown, a surprisingly mild beer given its intense color that was my favourite of the four.
Grizzly Paw pours eight housemade beers, two of which are seasonal brews. Above the bar is an intriguing collection of over 100 mugs. Each belongs to a member of the Mug Club; $35 annually gets participants $1 off pints anytime and invitations to tasting parties at a place where everyone knows your name.
Strap on skates and glory in gliding across natural ice:
Hot chocolate break while skating behind the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise
• The Victoria Glacier, giant ice castle and Ice Magic sculptures provide a wondrous atmosphere for the Zamboni-smooth Lake Louise rink behind the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise.
• Rundle Mountain view, firepit, benches and picnic tables provide ambiance for the Terrace rink behind the Fairmont Banff Springs hotel.
• Quaint Kananaskis Village Pond in the park-like courtyard is night lit. There’s a hockey rink too.
• Two blocks from Main Street, Canmore Pond is a magnate for local families and visitors.
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Stay, Dine, Do
